# refAbstractsWide

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the barrier at temporal scale of the storm event.


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A coupled programme of nearshore wave measurement, wave hindcasting, and measurements


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of beach response to extreme storm events in the English Channel, has identified some beach responses


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responses that are not characterized well by the integrated parameters. Closer examination


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of the measured wave data in these events has suggested that the unexpected beach responses


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may be related to the spectral characteristics of the storm events.


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The morphodynamic response of shingle barrier beaches is examined, in response


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to a range of hydrodynamic conditions, in context with the pre-storm barrier geometry,


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and at a temporal scale based on typical storm events. Key variables affecting


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the crest evolution of shingle barriers to storm activity are identified and quantified.


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The barrier inertia parameter, an empirical dimensionless predictive overwashing threshold


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framework, has been tested in the field and the limits of applicability identified.


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The Pleistocene history of river systems that enter the English Channel from northern


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France and southern England is reviewed. During periods of low sea-level (cold stages) these


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streams were tributaries of the Channel River.


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This provides a series of maps which provide an overview of hazard activity along the


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SCOPAC coastline from Lyme Regis to Shoreham by sea. The maps are part of the 'RESPONSE'


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Responding to the risks from climate change project.


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appendices containing detailed information relating to the geomorphology, tidal dynamics, wae climate, beach and spit evolution


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and sediment budget of the harbour, its spits and inlet.


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Laboratory tumbling experiments demonstrate that rounded flint beach shingle is less durable than commonly


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supposed. The mean rate of abrasion for dark grey Sussex flints (Senonian) in the first few hours of tumbling increases with


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weight whereas that of white Normandy flints (Turonian and Coniacian) does not. Depending on pebble weight, the Sussex flints


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abrade at up to six times the rate of the Normandy flints. Abrasion rates also vary according to tumbler load, the water: shingle


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ratio, and tumbling period. The abrasion rate of Sussex flints decreases with time at a much greater rate than could be expected


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from the reduction in size. The abrasion debris is mostly silt sized, but small quantities of sand are produced from samples


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containing larger pebbles. In situ abrasion of flint shingle is estimated to be significant, reducing the protection shingle beaches


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afford to cliffs thus exacerbating Chalk cliff instability.


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This paper is presented as a warning of the pitfalls which are involved in a too ready and uncritical acceptance of the


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evidence for apparent changes in relative land and sea level which has been derived from the archaeological and


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historical remains around the coasts of southern Britain. The optimum conditions for establishing the former positions


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of relative mean sea level are found in deposits which can be shown to have formed in a known relationship to sea level


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as part of a continuous halosere from marine sands and clays to freshwater fen deposits. Estimates of sea level changes


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should therefore be based primarily on the analysis of physiographic data and using historical and archaeological


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data as complementary and corroborative evidence. General trends in changes in sea levels in the late Holocene are


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described, reference being made to the coastal zones of Southampton, Fawley and Poole.


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A review is given of suspended sediment dynamics in macrotidal regimes using examples of estuaries situated


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along the French coast of the English Channel. Characteristic features of estuarine turbidity maxima are


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described over a range of time scales, which includes semi-diurnal and neap-spring tidal cycles, and seasonal


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fluctuations of river discharge. The present behaviour of the fluvial sediment influx within these systems is


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described, taking into account the geological history of estuarine infilling.


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The available series of observed annual sea-levels for ten ports in southern England have been analysed in detail and


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estimates of return periods and the probability of occurrence of maximum levels have been obtained. The


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existence of secular trends in observed sea-levels has been examined and the effects of such linear trends are


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presented. In view of the use of such information in coastal engineering design, an attempt is made to provide critical


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guidelines in the interpretation of the results.


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At present, the most widely accepted hypothesis for the transition from mudsliding to deep-seated rotational


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slipping as the dominant agent of mass transport in actively eroding clay cliffs is that the transition depends on the


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rate of marine erosion at the toe of the slope. This paper explores an alternative theory, that the transition from one


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type of behaviour to another depends largely on the nature of the materials at the crest of the slope and to a lesser,


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but still important, extent on the groundwater hydrology. The main argument behind this alternative theory is that the


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presence of stronger soil strata at the crest of the slope inhibits the mudslide behaviour that would otherwise occur


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and hence form a toe-protecting 'mudslide barrier'. This allows marine action to erode the toe of the slope directly


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causing it to be over-steepened, and ultimately precipitates a deep-seated rotational landslide. Where the coastal cliffs


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are capped with thick, hard and jointed caprock the slides tend to be of the multiple rotational kind.


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Sea-level indicators in the form of shells, geosols, over-consolidated horizons and biogenic material interleaved


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This section described is of particular interest because it shows that beds of Woolwich type extend farther west in


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Sussex than has hitherto been supposed. No beds of Woolwich type are known in Hampshire, and the only other locality in


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Sussex which has yielded a comparable list of fossils is Newhaven, about 18 miles to the east.


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in marine sediments, provide evidence of relative sea-level movements. Data collected largely from studies undertaken


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since 1950, show the sea rising from below - 30m O.D. at c.9300 B.P. to above +0.5m O.D. by 1700 B.P. Details of


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individual studies are discussed on an areal basis. 94 indicator points dated either by radiocarbon or relative


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pollen techniques have been established and plotted on a time-depth graph. Of these, 55 were taken as providing


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reliable carbon 14 and height evidence for the movement of MHWST. Statistical analysis of this data, using multiple


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regression and series of events techniques, suggests that a smoothly rising, exponential form of sea-level rise does not


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form the best solution to the data and that alterations in the speed and recovery direction may have occurred. A


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non-random environmental process may have been of primary importance in influencing the development and timing of


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sea-level indicators. Evidence is presented for the influences of climatic change and man in inducing coastal


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Discussion on the age of the raised beaches of south England, including the Brighton raised beach.


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Descriptions of deposits at various locations along the Sussex coast.


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The so-called 100-foot raised beach of the Sussex coast comprises marine sands and shingle resting at heights


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varying from 80 to 135 feet above O.D. and can be traced almost continuously between Chichester and Arundel. The


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beach has generally been treated as an indivisible unit, but recently archaeological evidence has been brought forward to


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show that the deposits at 80-90 feet above O.D. at Aldingbourne Park are older than those at Slindon Park,


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which attain an altitude of 135 above O.D. There is consequently some justification for distinguishing a 90 foot


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beach and a 135 foot beach. Taken together they appear to mark the period of rising base-level which caused prolonged


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aggradation of the rivers in southern England during Clactonian-Middle Acheulian times.


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A detailed assessment of the storm surge of the 14th October 1976 and its historical significance for the Poole/


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Christchurch Bay area. The principal manifestation of the storm was the severe damage sustained by the National


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Maritime Institute's experimental tower in Christchurch Bay and the destruction of the 'sand tower' located nearby. In


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addition, the coincidence of large wave activity and a sustained high water level resulted in a severe onslaught of


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the beaches around the two Bays. The greatest effects were experienced east of Southbourne in Poole Bay and in the


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vicinity of Barton in Christchurch Bay where erosion extended to 1m or more. It is suggested that as much


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coastline change reasonably expected throughout a year of normal weather patterns was instead brought about in a few


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This paper considers eroding coastal cliffs which consist predominantly of stiff-fissured clay overlying a more


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resistant stratum, the contact having a gentle component of coastwise dip. From the southern coasts of England, five


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such cliffs are described. In each of these, a zone of dominant mudsliding exists which stands out from the


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background of lesser mudslides and other forms of failure. The common feature is that in each case, the zone of major


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mudsliding coincides closely with the length of cliff over which the base of the clay stratum lies within the tidal


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range, and generally within the upper part of this. It is suggested that this pattern results from optimum conditions


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for continuing stimulation of mudslide activity by toe erosion being reached in the above zone.


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This chapter gives a detailed account of the geology and development of the south coast from the Isle of Portland to


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the River Medway in Kent. Erosional coasts are described and sub-divided into those developed in Palaeocene rocks


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(Hampshire Basin and northern margins of the Isle of Wight), Mesozoic rocks (southern rim of Hampshire basin, southern


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half of the Isle of Wight) and those erosional coasts subject to mass movement (South Dorset, White Not the, West


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Purbeck, Barton, Bouldnor, Undercliff) and with shore platform development (Purbeck and Isle of Wight). Similar


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attention is paid to depositional coasts. This section covers spit development at Hurst castle and Calshot; the


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double spits at Poole Harbour and Christchurch Bay, Pagham Harbour, and those flanking the inlets near the harbours of


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Portsmouth, Langstone and Chichester. Finally Chesil Beach is discussed in some detail. The extent and distribution of


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alluvial tracts forms the concluding section, reference being made to submerged gravel terraces in the Solent,


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Southampton, Portsmouth, Langstone and Poole Harbours.


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This study is an attempt to determine the changes, particularly in cliffed coasts, which have taken place along


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the south-east coast during the last 100 years and to investigate the relationship between sea defences and


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changes in the coastline. The area of study stretches from Chesilton on the north-eastern side of the Isle of Portland,


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to Sheerness on the Isle of Sheppey. This length of coastline is divided up according to extent of change and


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type of coastal form i.e. areas of negligible change, the Chalk cliffs, areas of moderate change, areas of rapid cliff


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change and areas of rapid beach changes. The paper concludes that sub-aerial forces are extremely important in shaping the


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cliffs, that cliff retreat often continues long after protection from the sea has been achieved and that in some


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cases protection works may aggravate or produce other problems, particularly of the retention of beaches.


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This paper is concerned with the problems of measurement of coastal retreat, attitudes to coastal erosion and the


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engineering adjustments which result. Rates of coastal retreat are generally calculated by comparing different


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editions of O.S. maps which permit successive plots of the coastline to be made. Annual rates such as these however,


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fail to recognise the impact of short term events on erosion. Furthermore, this method fails to recognise


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situations where the relative rates of cliff-top and cliff-foot retreat are different. Present state of knowledge


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of public perception of coastal changes is very limited. Many areas are now at risk because perception of the problem


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and planning controls were minimal when many coastal resorts were built. Finally, it is suggested that much more research


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is needed into the benefits seen as accruing from coast protection.


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Chalk and Coombe Rock cliffs at Birling Gap, Sussex, were surveyed between 1950 and 1962. the size and frequency of


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cliff-top retreat shows great variations, but of 39,000 sq. ft(3642 sq. m) lost, over 34,000 sq. ft(3160 sq. m) were lost


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during winter. Further 42% of cliff-top land was lost in just two winters. The reasons for this are not apparent,


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although the combined effects of marine action, frost and rain bring about most change.


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Shingle beaches differ from sand beaches mainly in the mode of transport of the material and in the permeability of the


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beach. The typical beach forms are in consequence different and the typical problems of beach stabilisation require


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different types of solution. The mechanism of littoral drift of shingle is controlled predominantly by the action of the


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breaking wave; on a groyned beach a simple theory is advanced to relate drift to groyne length and spacing.


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Longitudinal sorting of shingle sizes is a specially notable sign of a stable beach. Well marked size-sorting transverse


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to the coastline is a more general characteristic. Examples of schemes of management are provided for a beach with high


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littoral drift and a beach which has to be controlled as artificial cells. The accreting shingle beach may in


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suitable circumstances develop a steep in-shore profile - examples are given of such.


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The purpose of this paper is to give the range of the raised beaches and head in the south of England and South Wales and


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show their relation to the Valley Drifts. Definitions of the characters and positions of the head, or rubble-drift are


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given and enquiries are made into the origin and age of this special drift.


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This gives the background to the coast defence problems arising along the East Sussex coast between the Cuckmere


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Haven and Brighton. The 50 year coast defence programme for coastal protection of the high chalk cliffs fronting


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Peacehaven and Telscombe is described in some detail. Finally, the construction of Phases 1,2 and 3 of the


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Peacehaven and Telscombe coast defence works is summarised. Details of the methods used and problems encountered are


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This paper is an endeavour to estimate the probable frequency of occurrence of abnormally high sea levels on the


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south and east coasts of England from the tidal records of ports in the area. Recent statistical theories of extreme


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values have been applied to the annual maxima of tidal levels as recorded in the past at the various ports to


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obtain the frequency distribution of the higher sea levels at each port for which tidal records of sufficient length


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(going back for 50 years or more) are available. The results are presented in the form of graphs giving the return period


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of various heights above Ordnance Datum at each port studied i.e. giving the average number of years between the


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occurrence of tidal levels rising to or above any specified height. The evidence contained in the tidal records for a


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continuous increase in the frequency of occurrence of very high sea levels in the past 50 years is examined and the


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effect of this increase on the frequency of high levels in the future is estimated. Finally, estimates are made of the


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highest level to be expected in the next century at each of the ten ports studied, assuming: a) no continuous rise in


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level and b) a steady rise in sea level of one foot per century.


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A report on how conservation interests had top priority in the design of a sea defence scheme for Deal and Sandwich in


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Kent. The scheme provides protection from flooding to Grade 1 farmland, sand dunes and ancient pasture land.


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Precise levelling of the junction between the cliff and the shore platform has indicated that there is a variation of


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more than 4m in the height of the contemporary feature along the south coast of Great Britain. At most localities the


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junction is to be found between the Mean High Water Spring and Mean High Water Neap levels. Local differences may


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amount to 4m and result from the interaction of geological, marine and topographic variables. Comparable differences


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occur between the cliff-line and the stranded shore platforms that characterise the coast of south Devon and


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A study of rock samples collected at 26 stations and continuous seismic profiles taken over a distance of 2000km


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in the eastern part of the English Channel reveals the existence of a large flat-floored Tertiary syncline which


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forms an easterly extension of the Hampshire Basin of Southern England. The newly delineated basin, which is here


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referred to as the Hampshire-Dieppe Basin, forms part of the well known Palaeogene Anglo-Paris-Belgian depositional


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basin. The total thickness of Palaeogene strata in the eastern part of the basin is about 380m and the youngest


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beds are probably of Upper Eocene age. Upper Cretaceous strata are exposed around the edges of the basin; the


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thickness of the chalk varying from about 250m in the south and east to 420m in the north-west. The basin is bounded to


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the north-east by the Weald-Artois anticline and a strong flexure, the Bembridge-St Valery line, which is a


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continuation of the Isle of Wight monocline, controls the position of much of its south-western boundary. To the south


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of the Hampshire-Dieppe basin lies the Baie de la Seine Tertiary syncline. Here, freshwater limestones of presumed


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Oligocene age overlie a Middle Eocene marine sequence. Lithologies and microfaunas of the samples are described and


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related to those of sequences of similar age on nearby land, and some conclusions are drawn about the palaeography of the


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area. The geological structure of the area is elucidated, the paths of faults and fold axes are traced and a


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Reviews the methods used to examine whether proposed extraction of seabed material by dredging could have any


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detrimental effects on nearby coasts. Also explains the role of the Crown Estate Commissioners as regards dredging


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applications and the procedure for granting of production licences.


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This report aims to identify the major changes which have taken place on the Hampshire coastline as shown on Ordnance


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Survey maps of different dates (at a scale of 1/10,560). The coastline is divided into 10 sections and each section is


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categorised according to the types of changes it has experienced in the study period. Both natural and human


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changes are included, the categories being; erosion, accretion, lateral movement of spits, reclamation, loss of


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land and narrowing or widening of the inter-tidal zone. Where changes are significant, the amounts and rates of


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change are examined. The importance of erosion, both in the past and present, is recognised and the cliffed areas of


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Christchurch Bay are described as those currently experiencing the most active erosion. Reclamation of land


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from the sea has been an important activity, particularly in Southampton and Portsmouth. Much of the coast has undergone


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a narrowing of its inter-tidal zone by the movement landwards of the Low Water Mark. It is suggested that


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dredging, construction of sea defences, growth and decline of saltmarsh plants and sea-level rise could all have been


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contributory factors. Finally, fluctuations in the position and shape of the major spits have taken place, the most


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mobile land spit being that of Hurst Castle.


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A gravity map of the area between Lyme Bay and St Brieuc Bay drawn up from the results of surveys by the Institute of


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Geological Sciences in 1972 and 1973 shows the following main features: (1) There is an east-west regional gradient


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of about 0.2mGal/km over the entire survey area north of the Channel Isles. This may be due to a westward thinning of the


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crust. (2) A region of low gravity in Lyme Bay is attributed to a Mesozoic basin at least 1km thick. An anticline runs


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approximately east-west across this basin. (3) A ridge of high gravity extends eastwards from Start Point and is


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probably associated with thrusting of dense Metamorphic rocks over the Devonian strata. (4) South of 50 deg. north,


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the gravity field is complex mainly to the emplacement of granites in an area of shallow basement. The Hurd Deep Fault


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is, however, clearly visible, possible owing to its having controlled Mesozoic basin formation.


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A view of some of the problems affecting the Solent. This paper includes comments on dredging in close proximity to


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shorelines, supervision of dredging operations, comments on Coast Protection Act 1949 and co-ordination of control in


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Examines the possible causes of slippage and slope failure in 1987-88, with retrospective consideration of previous


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movements at this site, so far as they are known. Geological structure, stratigraphy and lithology are described,


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identifying formations and horizons critical to repeated failures. The sandrock is coherent under pressure, but can


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lose stability if exposed: it contains several interbedded clays that may function as "perched" aquifers. The Gault


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Clay is locally sandy and micaceous and shows frequent fissuring. It possesses a very low angle of shearing


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resistance. The frequent alternations of shearing resistance and strength within the whole of the stratigraphic sequence


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exposed in the cliff profile and extending below sea-level, is the fundamental cause of landslipping, but groundwater


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discharge from confined aquifers may undermine superadjacent slopes and create near vertical free faces. Material removed


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from the upper sections of the cliff complex is transported to the toe of the feature to form a series of terraces or


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"benches" that contribute to the special character of the "Undercliff". The width of the Undercliff expresses the


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ratio of discharge of groundwater (and hence the rate of recession of the free face above) to the rate of basal


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marine erosion. The natural repose angle of weathered Gault Clay is 5.5 degrees but it steepens as the Carstone and


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Sandrock below are eroded, until failure occurs within the Gault along a near-circular slip plane. Once initiated,


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slippage and slumping work back upslope until stability is re-attained. Slopes in the Upper Greensand and overlying


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Chert Beds, are capable of supporting vertical faces indefinitely. Instability at this site is likely to increase


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in the shorter term, not only because of disruption to subsurface drainage caused by recent slippage but due also


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to substantial loss of mature trees in the 'Great Storm' of October 1987. Their role in removing a proportion of


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groundwater, through evapotranspiration, was formerly of some significance (but not known in any quantitative sense).


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Remedial measures suggested include a substantial retaining wall, anchored into the Carstone, and an increased network


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of deep subsurface drains. The latter would give an improvement in the factor of safety by approximately 10%.


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Borehole investigations into slip planes and the water table are progressing.


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The patterns of water temperature variation throughout the Solent and Southampton Water estuarine systems are


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controlled by a variety of processes including solar heating and evaporative cooling of the sea water brought in by tidal


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currents, the mixing of sea water with smaller quantities of river water and the thermal effects induced by the periodic


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contact of sea water with intertidal mud flats. Superimposed on these natural effects is the warming produced by the


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discharges from industrial outfalls. Following a description of these causal effects, hydraulic and mathematical models


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for predicting the dispersal of warm industrial effluents is considered and compared with actual temperature variations


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which have been recorded in recent years.


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Discussion of salt marsh reclamation in the Solent area.


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The river valley of the Western Ayr forms one of only a few sites in the Solent region that have been studied in detail


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for the purposes of examining the problems of Holocene sea-level change. The interpretation of stratigraphic


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samples and pollen samples has permitted sea-level changes to be determined.


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A reduced equation of motion is used to compute the residual velocity and the residual transport through the western


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Solent from the water levels recorded over a 8 month period at tide gauges at either end of the channel. A coefficient


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of bottom friction of 5.0 x 10 (to the minus 3) is assumed. There was a spring neap variation and a significant


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correlation of fluctuations in the residual velocity with meteorological conditions. Westward residual velocities


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occurred at spring tides with low barometric pressure and south-westerly winds. Eastward residual velocities occurred


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at neap tides with high pressure and north-easterly winds. Because of the progressive nature of the tidal wave, the


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long term residual transport appeared to be towards the west and the flushing time for the Solent system was long for


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considerable periods. The maximum velocities experienced during a tidal cycle half way along the channel are towards


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the west with a probability of values exceeding 160 cm per second for 10 minutes in 5.4 days.


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The floor of the lower part of the estuary of Southampton Water has been examined with a Kelvin Hughes MS 43 transit


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sonar and an MS 36 echo sounder. This new work has revealed a series of furrows aligned with the channel direction and


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having V-shaped cross sections up to 5m wide and 1m deep. The length, regularity and continuity of the furrows suggest


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that they are of natural origin, although the mechanism is obscure. They may be associated with the development of


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secondary flows superimposed on the main current. Secondary flows taking the form of longitudinal vortices have been


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used to explain many linear sedimentary features in unstratified as well as stratified flow. The paper concludes


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that if furrows are common in estuaries, they may be useful stratigraphic indications of environment.


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A series of parameters are proposed to describe the grain size frequency distribution of sandy-gravels. They are shown


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to be selective in distinguishing variations in the proportions of the two modes, especially at 25% sand, an


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important point in the packing of bimodal materials. A number of samples from the Solent, are considered as


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examples of the sedimentary significance of the use of the parameters in a tidal environment.


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Echo sounding, oblique Asdic surveying and sampling has shown the Solent to be extensively floored by gravel dunes.


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The dune asymmetry and the sediment distribution indicates transport eastwards from the principal source at Hurst


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Castle Spit though with recirculating eddies within the Solent. Current measurements show that the water flow


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meanders and that the recirculating eddies of sediment are associated with the positions of the meanders. The observed


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sediment distribution when compared with that predicted from the water flow shows that the gravel is often oversaturated


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with sand where currents are equal and opposite. Where the currents are asymmetrical the gravel is undersaturated with


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sand. Modified scree slopes appear where abrupt changes in the direction of sediment occur.


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It is suggested that variations in bed shear stress between the crests and troughs of gravel waves may be the cause of


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simultaneous deposition of sand and gravel and, coupled with spatial variations in gravel wave steepness, can produce


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variations in the proportions of sand and gravel in the seabed sediment.


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Sparker surveys have shown that the river system, of which the Solent is a remnant, was incised to a base level of at


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least -50m. Recent infilling of these channels in the east has been complex and is still continuing. In the west,


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evidence of the river channels has been mainly obliterated by erosion. Oblique asdic surveys have shown that the sea


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bed over much of the area is covered with dunes. Analysis of sea bed samples has shown that the dunes in the West Solent


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are composed of sandy-gravel with low shell content. Elsewhere sand and muds are important and shell content is


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generally higher. The predicted sediment transport paths show that coastal erosion in Christchurch Bay, on Selsey


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Bill and on the Isle of Wight is the main source of sediment. The relationship between the tidal currents and


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the sedimentary characteristics are discussed.


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Extensive continuous seismic profiling has shown the Solent River to have been incised to a base level of at least -46m


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O.D. and to have flowed to the east. The sequence of infilling in the area near the Nab Tower is complex, having


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originated mainly from a source to the south. In the East Solent there appear to be extensive gravels overlying


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bedrock to a depth of 2.3m except in the channel south of the Ryde Middle Bank. This bank has been cut out of the


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Tertiary clays, but the Brambles Bank is a sedimentary feature situated on the extension of Southampton Water near


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its junction with the Solent River channel.


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Provides a map of surface sediment types in the Solent and outlines the circulation patterns of sediments. There are


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some data on rates of erosion and deposition; bedload transport and suspended load. Dredging is briefly discussed


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and figures showing the amounts of material dredged commercially in the Solent are provided for the years


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The present form of the Isle of Wight has developed largely by coast erosion from a previously more extensive land area.


refAbstractLine:
Much of the products of erosion are present on the beaches, as sand and gravel banks offshore and muddy tidal flats in


refAbstractLine:
the estuaries. Many coastal sections are exposed to vigorous wave activity, and the strong tidal currents can remove the


refAbstractLine:
sediment which could otherwise build up to prevent direct erosion of the cliffs. Most sections are consequently not in


refAbstractLine:
equilibrium and are likely to erode further. The paper briefly reviews some of what is known about the erosion of


refAbstractLine:
the coastline, the transport paths of the sediment and the areas of deposition.


refAbstractLine:
Dock excavations and numerous bore-holes have shown that gravel and peat-beds, buried by alluvial mud, occur at many


refAbstractLine:
points in Southampton Water and its tributary estuaries. A study of a large number of hitherto unpublished borings has


refAbstractLine:
shown that the gravel occurs as terraces, similar to those found above sea-level. There is evidence that the terraces


refAbstractLine:
mark stages, three in number, in the excavation of the estuaries during the Pleistocene Period, and that the peat


refAbstractLine:
and mud have been deposited mainly during the post-glacial rise in sea-level.


refAbstractLine:
This paper, based upon two years of detailed field work, is concerned with the morphology, altitude and composition of


refAbstractLine:
the gravels to be found covering the Tertiary rocks of the Hampshire Basin, and discusses their significance in the


refAbstractLine:
denudation chronology of the Hampshire Basin, east of the Avon valley. The conclusion drawn is that the physical


refAbstractLine:
history of the Hampshire Basin since the Miocene has been one of conflict between river and sea. The river systems of


refAbstractLine:
the Miocene were obliterated by the transgressing Pliocene sea and its subsequent withdrawal gave birth to the basic


refAbstractLine:
The paper begins with an explanation for the tidal phenomena and to illustrate this explanation, some of the features of


refAbstractLine:
the tides of Southampton Water are described. Details of recorded tides for identical periods at Portsmouth, Poole


refAbstractLine:
Holocene estuarine deposits up to 21m in thickness, which were encountered in boreholes and excavations at Fawley,


refAbstractLine:
partly fill the south-western side of the drowned valley of Southampton Water. Saltmarsh clays with peat lie above and


refAbstractLine:
below tidal-flat clays of Atlantic age. The mollusc, foraminifera and ostracod faunas and the coccolith and


refAbstractLine:
diatom floras of these Holocene deposits are discussed. Gravels of Calshot Spit are interbedded with these sediments


refAbstractLine:
to a depth which suggests the existence of the spit in Atlantic times or earlier. The spit has deflected the deep


refAbstractLine:
tidal channel eastwards and has protected the south-western borders of the estuary from erosion. In the northern part of


refAbstractLine:
Southampton Water, late Holocene estuarine beds transgress northwards over Holocene freshwater sediments. Much of the


refAbstractLine:
thick estuarine sequence at Fawley corresponds in age to a thin freshwater succession in the north.


refAbstractLine:
Brief report discussing the view that the Solent is an estuary rather than open coast. This interpretation is based


refAbstractLine:
on the principle of separating 'true' from 'apparent' coastline. The 'true coastline', with characteristics


refAbstractLine:
appropriate to the open sea, is said to cross the Solent at Hurst Castle and follow the south perimeter of the Isle of


refAbstractLine:
Wight, crossing the Solent again and rejoining the mainland near Portsmouth.


refAbstractLine:
This report has been carried out for the Crown Estate Commissioners to examine data in order to determine whether


refAbstractLine:
dredging for marine aggregate within the Solent, or South of the Needles, has resulted in coastal changes. The physical


refAbstractLine:
and geological background of the West Wight shoreline is discussed, and a study is made of each dredging area. Site


refAbstractLine:
visits were paid to the coast although no fieldwork was carried out; and efforts were made to scrutinise all the


refAbstractLine:
available data. It is concluded that coastal changes could not have resulted from dredging in the vicinity of Pot Bank


refAbstractLine:
or Prince Consort Bank. In the Solent area, however, the removal of more than 20 x 10 million tons of material since


refAbstractLine:
1950 (together with the deepening of the Thorn Channel to the north-east) must have changed the bed conformation and


refAbstractLine:
consequently the local regime. Repercussions on the pattern of beach erosion and accretion cannot be measured but the


refAbstractLine:
critical coastal areas are considered to be the Newtown River entrance, Thorness Bay and Gurnard Bay. The Island's


refAbstractLine:
basic geological make-up and the natural interaction of the elements render it impossible to define precisely the


refAbstractLine:
contribution to change that is due to dredging; but this cannot be neglected simply because it cannot be measured. It


refAbstractLine:
is suggested that the Solent Bank could either be "rested" or that the annual extraction rate for the next two years


refAbstractLine:
should not exceed 400,000 cubic metres. Either method should be combined with a full and effective form of monitoring.


refAbstractLine:
Report on erosion of the foreshore in the vicinity of the Terrace, Hill Head, with particular reference to whether the


refAbstractLine:
groynes constructed further west have had any deleterious effects and if so, what steps should be taken to counteract


refAbstractLine:
this effect. Finally, the report considers what practical measures can be taken by the council or the frontages, or


refAbstractLine:
Details of the tides in Southampton Water are given, including tide tables and a discussion of various methods


refAbstractLine:
which are used in order to predict tidal levels.


refAbstractLine:
This review of the Solent consists of a number of papers which range widely across the physical and biological


refAbstractLine:
sciences and provide an up-to-date assessment of the scientific knowledge of the area. Geographically, the text


refAbstractLine:
covers the Solent proper, Spithead, Southampton Water, the harbours of Portsmouth, Langstone and Chichester as well as


refAbstractLine:
the major estuaries entering the system.


refAbstractLine:
The coast of Sussex has been characterised by a large easterly littoral drift of shingle since at least 5000


refAbstractLine:
years B.P. This has formed spits which deflect the local rivers to the east. Breaching of complete barriers is rare


refAbstractLine:
but there is geomorphological, cartographic and historic evidence of the breaching of spits. This paper comments on


refAbstractLine:
the formation and stability of shingle spits using the examples of Calshot Spit, Hurst Castle Spit and the


refAbstractLine:
Christchurch Harbour entrance. Calshot Spit has been stable since at least 6,300 years B.P., this may be related to a


refAbstractLine:
decline in sea level rise about 6,000 years B.P. At the entrance to Christchurch Harbour, cycles of accretion -


refAbstractLine:
breach occurred between 1848 and 1938 due to a man-made increase in the littoral drift. The breaches were induced by


refAbstractLine:
large river flows combined with storm activity. At Hurst Castle Spit, an irreversible breach due to insufficient


refAbstractLine:
beach sediment is possible. If it occurred, it would mark a new phase in the coastal evolution of the area.


refAbstractLine:
With regard to the submergence of the Solent margins, the author concludes that it has been affected by marine


refAbstractLine:
transgression probably since Neolithic 'B' times and probably of sufficient amplitude to account for the


refAbstractLine:
disappearance of a strip of coastal plain perhaps half a mile in width. The effects of the general rise in sea-level


refAbstractLine:
indicated by the Passage Grave transgression in the Baltic may have been locally delayed in an area of narrows such as


refAbstractLine:
the Solent through the development of protective off-shore bars. Thus, flooding of coastal areas in South Hampshire may


refAbstractLine:
well have taken place, for example on account of the removal of protective barriers at the entrances of the Solent, as


refAbstractLine:
late as Bronze Age times. Moreover, the Roman or post-Roman rise in sea level, of which there appears to be evidence in


refAbstractLine:
many areas, may have caused still further flooding.


refAbstractLine:
The model described in this paper was designed in order to determine whether a proposal to build a new jetty to receive


refAbstractLine:
50,000 ton tankers near the mouth of the River Hamble would cause currents which would carry shingle into the main


refAbstractLine:
navigation channel. The proposed works were shown to have no likelihood of causing such a movement; in addition, it was


refAbstractLine:
seen how the alignment of the jetty could be improved slightly and shown that the sailing conditions in the nearby


refAbstractLine:
This book is an historical account of the Solent, mainly concerned with the events of the 19th and 20th centuries. It


refAbstractLine:
describes man 's development of the shoreline and the history of shipping and sailing within the Solent. It is


refAbstractLine:
divided into three sections: Southampton Water, Cowes and the west Solent and Spithead and the east Solent.


refAbstractLine:
Following the initial drowning of the Solent valley in the Mesolithic period and the subsequent post-glacial rise in


refAbstractLine:
sea level which lasted into Neolithic times, a further rise of approximately 5m in sea level has occurred in the


refAbstractLine:
Southampton area. Such a rise is of sufficient amplitude to have inundated a strip of coastal plain approximately 800m


refAbstractLine:
wide, with the resultant loss and destruction of archaeological material such that any conclusions must be


refAbstractLine:
based on evidence from marginal sites, chance finds and historical tradition. This paper briefly reviews the


refAbstractLine:
Significant ecological and geomorphological changes have occurred in the Solent in recent times and the most


refAbstractLine:
important and dramatic of these are outlined below. These include saltmarsh accretion and erosion; spartina marsh


refAbstractLine:
development and recession; changes in intertidal profiles; the decline and recolonisation of zostera and finally, the


refAbstractLine:
reclamation of saltmarsh and development of the Solent area.


refAbstractLine:
Measurements of waves and currents at one location in Southampton Water show considerable increase in the wave


refAbstractLine:
energy when the tide begins to ebb. Some of the theoretical changes in the form of wind-generated waves in estuaries can


refAbstractLine:
be simply described using non-time varying currents. With the additions of time variation it is shown that numerical


refAbstractLine:
techniques offer a useful method for determining theoretically the changes in the wave energy and number of


refAbstractLine:
waves interacting with tidal currents. The trends in the variation of wave energy with current speed of the observed


refAbstractLine:
data and the numerical model are shown to be in broad agreement but that the considerable variability between


refAbstractLine:
consecutive spectra of the Southampton Water data require further explanation.


refAbstractLine:
This review paper outlines the present state of knowledge of the hydrographical features of the Solent including the


refAbstractLine:
configurations, tides, currents, hydraulic regime, the interaction of fresh and salt water and the wave climate.


refAbstractLine:
The Department of Civil Engineering at Southampton is engaged in a study of exceptional sea levels in the Solent


refAbstractLine:
area. Records from the tide recording stations of Portsmouth, Southampton and Calshot are being examined, the


refAbstractLine:
aim being to assess, by means of the return period concept, the likelihood of extreme events, namely exceptionally high


refAbstractLine:
and low waters. A knowledge of extreme tidal levels is very important in navigational planning and in the design of


refAbstractLine:
maritime works, more especially in the crest levels of sea defences protecting low-lying areas.


refAbstractLine:
The model used in this study was initially constructed for the investigation of dredging works proposed in connection


refAbstractLine:
with the Caltex refinery scheme in Southampton Water. In this project it has been used to investigate the


refAbstractLine:
navigational characteristics of a possible new approach channel to Southampton Water. The main shipping lane to


refAbstractLine:
Southampton is via Spithead and the East Solent. The alternative approach via the West Solent is only of limited


refAbstractLine:
value, since the tidal range and depths are much less than those given via Spithead. Owing to the shallows in the


refAbstractLine:
vicinity of the Brambles Bank, all vessels, except small coasters, use the Western Approach Channel, a natural


refAbstractLine:
channel produced by tidal scour requiring little dredging. However, this present approach requires a fairly sharp turn


refAbstractLine:
to starboard into the Western Approach Channel from the East Solent. The suggestion, therefore, is that a more direct


refAbstractLine:
approach from the East Solent would be desirable and possible if the North Channel were deepened. A dredged


refAbstractLine:
channel some 5,000 yards in length would be entailed and it is this which this paper considers.


refAbstractLine:
Describes the geology of the Solent estuarine system, giving details of structure; Pre-Pleistocene strata; Pleistocene


refAbstractLine:
deposits; Holocene deposits and the search for oil and geothermal energy.


refAbstractLine:
The investigation described in this paper is in connection with a proposed oil refinery for Caltrex Services Ltd, off


refAbstractLine:
Hook at the mouth of Southampton Water. An extensive dredging programme is envisaged as part of the scheme. The


refAbstractLine:
model, which is of a fixed-bed type, was constructed to investigate the stability of the shingle on the sub-surface


refAbstractLine:
margins of the dredged area, and to determine what changes (if any) the dredging would produce in the local


refAbstractLine:
tidal-stream direction. The model results indicate that there is likely to be a reasonable factor of safety against


refAbstractLine:
shingle-bed movement, and that the tidal-stream direction is altered only slightly by dredging. The entire model project


refAbstractLine:
had to be carried out in 9 months. This requirement influenced the whole design and experimental procedure.


refAbstractLine:
Newspaper report giving details of sea defence plans at Climping. Owners of private land which is threatened by


refAbstractLine:
erosion, have decided to carry out sea defence works on the section of the foreshore between Poole Place and Atherington


refAbstractLine:
History of the Sussex coastline describing the changes experienced by Chichester and Pagham Harbours and Selsey.


refAbstractLine:
These changes are the result of both the natural process of eastward drift and reclamations carried out by man. The


refAbstractLine:
mouths of all the Sussex rivers show the action of the eastward drift - those of the Adur and Ouse having moved


refAbstractLine:
quite considerable distances over the last 300/400 years.


refAbstractLine:
After the last Ice Age and the subsequent rise of sea level in Neolithic times, Sussex was left with a deeply embayed


refAbstractLine:
coastline which appears to have been rapidly worn back. Headlands were trimmed, bay-mouth bars formed from the


refAbstractLine:
resulting detritus and the drowned valleys began to silt up. The cliff and bar coast became a continuous unit which was


refAbstractLine:
gradually eroded landward so that the proportion of cliff coast to bar coast increased as erosion reached the heads of


refAbstractLine:
the inlets. Evolution of Sussex estuaries since Roman times is discussed in general but much greater detail is paid to


refAbstractLine:
the Adur estuary. The Adur had a prosperous port in early medieval times which declined in the 14th and 15th


refAbstractLine:
centuries. It is suggested that this was due to the gradual advance of a spit along the coast between the 14th and 18th


refAbstractLine:
This booklet sets out to describe and explain some of the most interesting sites along the Sussex coastline. This


refAbstractLine:
includes Selsey Bill and the Black Rock Raised Beach and fossil cliff near Brighton.


refAbstractLine:
The objective of this study was to obtain quantitative data on the movement of shingle under wave action in water depths


refAbstractLine:
of about 10 to 20m by tracking pebbles tagged with radioactive material. The paper describes the method of


refAbstractLine:
tagging, the method of position fixing and the development of an underwater detection vehicle with a wide field of


refAbstractLine:
view. The field tracer tests demonstrated both increased mobility with decreasing depth and the existence of a small


refAbstractLine:
landward movement of shingle inshore of a depth of 12m. Existing predictive data on the threshold of movement under


refAbstractLine:
waves, based on the results of previous work in the laboratory, was confirmed.


refAbstractLine:
Use of a modified micro-erosion meter on the chalk shore platform of Sussex has enabled measurements to be made of


refAbstractLine:
the rate of lowering of over 40 contrasting sites. Annual vertical erosion ranges from 2mm to 10mm with the majority


refAbstractLine:
Describes the views of Prestwich and Clement Reid regarding the origin of the raised beach and gives the records of


refAbstractLine:
local exposures taken at varying heights and locations along the beach.


refAbstractLine:
The nature, origin and relationships of low-level Pleistocene marine sands and gravels, together with a map of


refAbstractLine:
their distribution compiled during a soil survey of the West Sussex Coastal Plain, are described and discussed. There has


refAbstractLine:
been considerable solution of the underlying wave-cut platform where it cuts across the Chalk. This solution,


refAbstractLine:
which post-dates the beach, gives a variation in platform height independent of its original slope. The wave-cut


refAbstractLine:
platform rises from about six feet O.D. to at least eighteen and a half feet O.D., and probably several feet higher, and


refAbstractLine:
the deposits, which are widespread and continuous except over the Chalk, rise to an observed maximum of forty-seven


refAbstractLine:
feet O.D. There is no evidence for the separate existence of more than one deposit within these altitudinal limits. The


refAbstractLine:
beach is considered to be the westward continuation of the similar beach at Black Rock, Brighton.


refAbstractLine:
This paper gives a description of the shingle beaches of Sussex and accounts for their formation. The action of the


refAbstractLine:
tides coupled with the direction of the prevailing wind continually brings shingle up the channel. Where headlands


refAbstractLine:
cause an eddy or where cross-currents check the movement, the shingle is deposited. Where a river flows out to sea,


refAbstractLine:
the rush of water checks the movement of the shingle across its mouth and consequently shingle begins to accumulate on


refAbstractLine:
the west side. In time, this process of accumulation begins to block the mouth of the river. In order to escape, the


refAbstractLine:
river turns eastwards and thus a shingle bar develops between it and the sea. Examples of this are provided by the


refAbstractLine:
In 1906, the first power station was built on the spit of shingle opposite Shoreham and in 1954 an additional station,


refAbstractLine:
extended 1955-1958, was constructed by the British Electricity Authority. The paper describes the alterations


refAbstractLine:
which were carried out to the harbour at Shoreham to facilitate the entry of colliers of 4500 tons dead-weight,


refAbstractLine:
which were introduced to fuel those power stations. The harbour entrance was widened and deepened and protected by


refAbstractLine:
two new mass concrete breakwaters. Lay-by berths were built in the tidal portion of the harbour and a new lock was


refAbstractLine:
constructed adjacent to the existing small lock built in 1933 to permit entry by the largest vessels into the


refAbstractLine:
non-tidal portion of the harbour or Canal. Additional lay-by berths and a turning basin were constructed in the Canal,


refAbstractLine:
which was deepened by about 5 ft. More than 1,000,000 cu. yd of dredging was carried out, the material being used either


refAbstractLine:
as aggregate for concrete or for backfilling and reclamation, the remainder being dumped at sea close to low


refAbstractLine:
water marl. The principal works dealt with in the paper are the breakwaters and the lock. Foundation failure caused by


refAbstractLine:
artesian water pressure necessitated a redesign of the lock walls and the type of construction used on the breakwaters


refAbstractLine:
is thought to be novel for works on such a scale. The inclusive cost of the improvement was about œ2,750,000; the


refAbstractLine:
work took approximately 3 years to complete.


refAbstractLine:
Sussex has a varied coastline with a long and complex history. The present coastline is very recent in origin and


refAbstractLine:
continues to evolve. In the past, changes in sea-level, processes of erosion and accretion and the actions of man


refAbstractLine:
have all contributed to dramatic changes in the position and configuration of the coast. Past and present features of the


refAbstractLine:
coast and explanations for their form are given in this paper. This includes raised beaches and old cliff lines


refAbstractLine:
(West Sussex); incised valleys and alluvial infills due to sea-level changes; shingle spits (Pagham Harbour); present


refAbstractLine:
day beaches and the cliffs and their rates of retreat. Finally, attention is paid to the problem of coastal


refAbstractLine:
defence, particularly the escalating costs of such defences.


refAbstractLine:
Chronicles the major storms which have had an impact on the Sussex coast from the 14th century onwards. This begins with


refAbstractLine:
the storm of 1345 in which 2,700 acres of land were devastated at Pagham Harbour. The evidence is obtained from


refAbstractLine:
historical records and dramatic descriptions are given of the shifting of the River Adur in 1595 and the extensive


refAbstractLine:
damage at Brighton in 1705. Discussion of the value and need for groynes at Brighton was made in 1722. One of the most


refAbstractLine:
destructive storms of the present century is said to have occurred on November 22nd, 1824.


refAbstractLine:
Discusses the history of the Sussex coastline using evidence derived from old maps as far back as 1587.


refAbstractLine:
A brief report on the erosion problem at Hove and the construction of the new sea wall.


refAbstractLine:
Shoreham harbour lies parallel to the coast with two tidal sections and one enclosed basin. The eastern two-thirds


refAbstractLine:
occupies the former course of the river Adur. Shoreham, Littlehampton and Newhaven have suffered from considerable


refAbstractLine:
eastward longshore drift of beach material along the coast. At Shoreham, this drift formed a bar of shingle which by


refAbstractLine:
1760 had caused the Adur to enter the sea opposite Aldrington, 4 miles east of its original mouth. Between


refAbstractLine:
1760-63, a new entrance was cut through the shingle but after a few years, the river mouth had again moved


refAbstractLine:
eastwards. In 1816, another entrance was cut and although blocked on several occasions, has been maintained. Port


refAbstractLine:
trade at Shoreham is described and details given of the total traffic handled and its relative importance compared


refAbstractLine:
A brief description of the erosion problem at Selsey Bill and the articulated groyne constructed as part of the sea


refAbstractLine:
Erosion of the coast east and west of Selsey Bill and the periodical inundation of the low-lying residential property


refAbstractLine:
by the sea have caused loss and hardship to the persons concerned and have given rise to interesting coastal


refAbstractLine:
engineering problems. The paper describes the investigations which were carried out at the planning stage of a


refAbstractLine:
comprehensive scheme promoted under the new Coast Protection Act (1949) and the design and construction of the works.


refAbstractLine:
Factors which determine the regime of a coast and have a bearing on the methods to be used for its protection are


refAbstractLine:
stated. An analysis of coastal and offshore movements during the past 100 years showed severe erosion east of the Selsey


refAbstractLine:
Bill to be of comparatively recent origin, caused partly by interference of man-made works with the littoral drift and


refAbstractLine:
partly by changes in offshore shoals and banks. Borings made on the line of the proposed sea wall and at half-tide level


refAbstractLine:
showed the underlying strata to be generally soft and unstable with insufficient covering of the beach material to


refAbstractLine:
prevent scour and redistribution by waves. The littoral drift was found to divide near Selsey Bill and an


refAbstractLine:
explanation is put forward by vector analysis of effective winds above Force 4. Current meter observations at the


refAbstractLine:
lifeboat station and local observation offer an explanation for the existence of a flat lower foreshore west of Selsey


refAbstractLine:
Bill and an absence of a lower foreshore on the east side. Possible offshore sources of supply by inshore drift of


refAbstractLine:
shingle from outlying banks are examined and it is suggested that only experiments with fluorescent tracers could supply


refAbstractLine:
the answer to whether a significant contribution to the eastward branch of the littoral drift is derived from these


refAbstractLine:
sources. An underwater experiment with concrete cubes of various sizes to determine the direction of sea-bed movement


refAbstractLine:
is described. The works, costing some œ500,000 and carried out under three contracts, were commenced in 1953 and


refAbstractLine:
completed in 1960. A new type of articulated groyne built at Selsey Bill with transverse and longitudinal flexibility


refAbstractLine:
gave satisfactory results. The reaction of a coast to protective works depends largely upon the composition of the


refAbstractLine:
subsoil below the beach and upon the rate at which it erodes during seasonal periods of exposure to wave action. The


refAbstractLine:
precautions taken to control the consequences of such exposure in the design and siting of the works are


refAbstractLine:
described. Reference is made to inconclusive experiments carried out on undisturbed samples of clay to establish


refAbstractLine:
whether a physical relationship exists between their plastic properties and their resistance to attrition by wave


refAbstractLine:
action; an alternative experiment is suggested. A wide range of timbers was used in the piling of the West beach groynes


refAbstractLine:
which will be kept under observation to determine their relative resistance to deterioration under conditions of


refAbstractLine:
tidal exposure. The problem of end scour is referred to and the methods used to provide for the inevitable consequences


refAbstractLine:
This study aims at a broad understanding of the beach processes operating between Selsey Bill and Portsmouth. The


refAbstractLine:
coastline forms a distinct coastal unit (i.e. it is a closed unit of sediment movements) and Hayling Island cannot be


refAbstractLine:
considered in isolation for it is merely part of this larger coastal unit. Rather than pursue a narrow line of research


refAbstractLine:
in great depth, the aim has been to achieve a total understanding of the sediment processes in the entire


refAbstractLine:
coastal unit, utilising all the available evidence. This has included aspects of both a desk and field study,


refAbstractLine:
incorporating ancient maps, written historical evidence, aerial photographs and satellite imagery, geomorphology,


refAbstractLine:
hydrographic surveys, beach monitoring, sediment sampling, current metering and the computer analysis of data with the


refAbstractLine:
aid of specially developed programmes. The study has been subdivided as follows. An extensive introduction sets the


refAbstractLine:
geographical and geological background to the coastal unit, the history of evolution to its present form, and the


refAbstractLine:
processes responsible for that evolution. Chapter 2 describes the methods of sediment sampling and analysis


refAbstractLine:
which have been adopted in order to identify the sediment distribution patterns. Chapter 3 discusses the processes of


refAbstractLine:
the beach, the pattern of beach sediments and morphometry, methods of estimating littoral drift rates, and an


refAbstractLine:
assessment of the littoral sediment budget of the beach. Each of the three harbour entrances are then discussed in


refAbstractLine:
turn as these form distinct sediment zones and morphological systems along with the seabed. The dividing line between the


refAbstractLine:
"beaches" and the "inlets" is rather artificial, because the land of Hayling Island is merely a passive region separating


refAbstractLine:
two dynamic tidal inlets. For example, the East Head Spit is undoubtedly attached to the beach in Bracklesham Bay, yet it


refAbstractLine:
is best treated as an integral part of Chichester Harbour entrance. In general, the spits and offshore sand banks are


refAbstractLine:
treated as part of the "inlet", while only the free lengths of coast are included as "beaches". The problems and history


refAbstractLine:
of coast protection on Hayling Island are considered in Chapter 8 and a major beach replenishment scheme for Hayling


refAbstractLine:
is designed in Chapter 9. Chapter 10 is a series of discussions which conclude the text of the thesis.


refAbstractLine:
An introductory geological block diagram illustrates the degree of structural control imposed on the coastline and


refAbstractLine:
reveals the relationships of the various beds outcropping near the coast. Numerous marine transgressions have given


refAbstractLine:
rise to polycyclic drift deposits whose contribution to the modern beaches is also considered. A detailed analysis of


refAbstractLine:
the available historical maps and charts, evidence for coastline changes, has been made and beach monitoring by


refAbstractLine:
Havant Borough Council and the Southern Water Authority provides more information over recent years. Analysis of


refAbstractLine:
aerial photography since 1945 reveals changes in beach morphology, particularly relic shingle ridges. Beach


refAbstractLine:
sediment is supplied by coast erosion, off-shore feed and river input and the effect of littoral drift in distributing


refAbstractLine:
the material is also considered. The effect of the tidal inlets of Chichester and Langstone Harbours on the beach


refAbstractLine:
environment is particularly dramatic. The history of sea defences from earliest times is reviewed, balancing the


refAbstractLine:
benefits of transferring erosion from critical points against the drawback of increased energy levels on the beach


refAbstractLine:
and interference with the natural beach processes. It will be shown that neither groynes nor seawalls have entirely


refAbstractLine:
succeeded in preventing erosion on Hayling, where the basic problem is a reducing rate of littoral drift. Beach


refAbstractLine:
nourishment, the only real solution to the present problems of coast protection, is considered in the light of completed


refAbstractLine:
schemes (particularly the Southern Water Authority scheme at Medmerry) and possible sources of sand and gravel from both


refAbstractLine:
on-shore and off-shore have been investigated. A cost benefit analysis is prepared for the Hayling Island


refAbstractLine:
coastline. Predictions for the future state of the coastline based on different policies of sea defence conclude the


refAbstractLine:
The sediment distribution pattern on the beach and nearshore sea-bed has been established with the aid of a sampling


refAbstractLine:
programme and diving inspection. The littoral sediment budget has been established and quantified for the coastal


refAbstractLine:
unit and a method of estimating historical rates of littoral drift from coastal changes has been developed. The effect of


refAbstractLine:
sediment reservoirs in regulating the budget, and the effect of dredging has also been considered. Neither groynes nor


refAbstractLine:
seawalls have entirely succeeded in preventing erosion on Hayling Island where the basic problem is a reducing feed of


refAbstractLine:
beach material to maintain the littoral drift. Beach replenishment proposals conclude the paper.


refAbstractLine:
Chapter entitled "The cutting of the English Channel; and the place of Selsey Bill in geological time" gives a


refAbstractLine:
detailed account of the geology of the English Channel; explanations for its present form and extent; the history of


refAbstractLine:
the River Solent and the geomorphological history of Selsey Bill.


refAbstractLine:
This report has been prepared in response to a request from the Surrey and West Regional Office of the National Trust


refAbstractLine:
for an historical study of their coastal property at East Head. The report intends to throw valuable light on the


refAbstractLine:
long-term changes occurring in the beaches as well as co-ordinating the many disparate sources of information


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already in existence. The paper has three main sections. Firstly, the setting and wider significance of East Head.


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Secondly the historical development of the spit and finally, the implications of both its present setting and its past


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Pagham Harbour is the eastern remnant of the sea strait that once separated the former island of Selsey from the


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mainland. This paper gives an account of the geology of the harbour and its surrounding area; describes the changes in


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the form of the harbour and its outlet that have occurred since 1587; the coastal protection works that have been


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carried out and finally, the marine processes operating which are responsible for its form.


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The harbours of Poole, Christchurch and Pagham display very similar characteristics - situated towards the western end


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of a broad shallow bay in the lee of a projecting promontory. In each case the initial deep embayment, created


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by the submergence of the coastal area, has been modified by the growth of a sand or shingle embankment across its


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entrance. These embankments are described as 'double spit 'features as they have the appearance of spits with opposed


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directions of growth. This paper is concerned with the origin of these features. It discusses the various opposing


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views on their formation and then gives an independent solution based on hydrographic and topographic survey


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The author congratulates Harlow on his paper concerning the littoral sediment budget between Selsey Bill and Gilkicker


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Point but comments on a number of omissions. Firstly, Harlow omitted to place his model into a wider or longer term


refAbstractLine:
context, nor did he explain the process of recurving of spits, despite this being of obvious relevance to the origin


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and development of the landforms observed in this coastal unit. Secondly, further criticism of the model is made on


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the basis of possible cyclical movements of sediment. Finally, Sims stresses the importance of a knowledge of the


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complex geomorphological history of the area and suggests that work using tracers may provide some further


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Describes coastal protection works at Selsey and the unusual features affecting design of sea walls and groynes.


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Newspaper report concerning the reconstruction of the groyne at the "hinge" joining East Head to the West Wittering


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estate foreshore. Controversy exists over the impact of the groyne upon the movement of shingle.


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During November 1984, BP Petroleum Development Limited sought and subsequently obtained planning permission to


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A summary of the results of the geological survey of the district lying between the South Downs and the Sussex coast.


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Changes in cliffed chalk coastlines are related to variations in the nature of the chalk itself, but many


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cliffs show only minimal retreat of the cliff top edge because many rock-falls and slides affect lower parts of the


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cliff face. Most change occurs during winter, with both large infrequent falls and small fragments contributing to


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the beaches. Important changes in fall-debris and in the beaches have been monitored.


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This paper comments upon that of Kellaway et al (1975) which suggested former widespread glaciation in southern England


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and the English Channel. It is suggested that all the facts adduced in favour of glaciation are capable of alternative


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interpretation. To infer process from form alone is insufficient evidence and supporting data should always be


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sought from sediments. The authors propose that landforms such as submerged cliff lines and fosses are more readily


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attributable to marine erosion and tidal scour or to open channel sub-aerial erosion at times of low sea-level than to


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This bibliography contains all post-1971 papers on the English Channel as well as some pre-1971 which were omitted


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This paper concerns a simulation of tidal flow in the southern part of the North Sea and the English Channel. The


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paper contains a formulation of the governing equations, a presentation of numerical approximations, a short


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description of the data set and finally, comparison between measured and predicted data.


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The Channel consists of three distinct provinces each characterised by its own geological style. The Western


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Province has rocks ranging in age from Lower Palaeozoic to Miocene with marked unconformity beneath the Upper


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Cretaceous and the Eocene strata. A major tectonic feature is a line of faults extending east-north-east up Channel. The


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Central Province is dominated by three faults of monoclinal structures and has rocks ranging from Jurassic to Eocene


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age. The Eastern Province is a relatively stable area dominated by a Tertiary syncline and a continuation of the


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Wealden anticline. Events related to the development of oceanic crust in Permian times are believed to have caused


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basic igneous activity, rifting and crustal thinning in the Western Channel and these factors and the subsequent opening


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of the Atlantic exerted a control over the development of the Channel. Alpine tectonism led to renewed movements on


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old fault planes. The importance of a tectonic line between the Isle of Wight and northern France is emphasised.


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Several lines of evidence for former glaciation of the English Channel are considered. Major geomorphological


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features of the sea bed are described. Possible reconstruction of the limits and main movements of the


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Weichselian and Salian ice sheets covering the British Isles and English Channel are included.


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This paper considers the evidence available of Quaternary events affecting the south coast of England. Evidence of


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major changes in climate and sea-level is discussed, in addition to the enigmatic presence of far-travelled erratic


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material in a region in which there is no supporting evidence of direct glaciation. Gaps in present knowledge are


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identified and fruitful areas for possible future research suggested. A chronology is suggested which reflects the


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consensus interpretation of Quaternary events in the area.


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Begins with a summary of alternative theories on the evolution of shoreline curves. Examines various examples to


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test the dominant breaker hypothesis i.e. the suggested correspondence between the direction of dominant breakers


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and shingle embankments. The examples used are in the area between the Isle of Purbeck and Portsmouth Harbour (Hurst


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Castle Spit, Calshot and Gosport Spits, Milford, Barton, Christchurch Bay, Hengistbury Head) and Weymouth Bay and


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The extent to which the relative shift of land- and sea-level is indicated by the presence of coastal peat


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deposits, requires the careful consideration of the relationship of the peat bed to its contemporary sea-level.


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This paper reports on the examination of several deposits in southern England in order to gain information on relative


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sea-levels 6,500 years ago. One of the sites is at Fawley, Hampshire.


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This memoir of Captain Cyril Diver consists of a collection of papers by a number of authors, written about South Haven


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Peninsular. These are concerned with the geomorphology, ecology and changing physiography of the heath and dunes


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comprising South Haven Peninsular. All papers are individually referenced in the database.


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The object of this paper is to describe and, as far as possible, to analyse the vegetation of South Haven


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Peninsular as it existed in 1932-33. It will fulfil the three useful purposes of forming a descriptive datum from


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which subsequent changes can be assessed; of giving an indication of the factors which are operating or have


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operated to control the vegetational development; and of arousing interest in some of the innumerable problems which


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Brief background details of harbour improvements and their effects on coastal sedimentation at Littlehampton, Shoreham


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Using air photographs taken in 1950, 1962, 1967 and 1971 at Camber, Sussex, the progress of sand dune stabilisation was


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quickly and successfully assessed. Early stabilisation work included the construction of sand traps and the planting of


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marram which was subsequently destroyed by heavy pedestrian and vehicle use. The later application of hydraulically sown


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seeds coupled with fencing to regulate pedestrians and trap wind blown sand, proved successful.


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Evidence from a series of boreholes in the Shoreham area demonstrates the occurrence of an outcrop of Woolwich and


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Reading Beds lying beneath the drift deposits which form the floor of Shoreham Harbour. The classification of the Eocene


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strata, their structural relation to other deposits in the area and their conditions of deposition are examined.


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Contouring of geophysical and hydrographic data obtained during a regional geological and geophysical reconnaissance


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programme has resulted in the discovery of an extensive system of narrow, steep-sided, sub-bottom infilled channels.


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These channels, which occur to the north of the Cherbourg Peninsula are, to a certain extent, structurally and


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stratigraphically controlled by the Cretaceous and Jurassic age strata into which they are cut, and appear to be the


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remnants of earlier river valleys filled with locally derived bedded and unbedded sands, silts, flints, boulders,


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clays and gravels. The depth reached by this infilling material is variable, ranging up to 200m below sea-bed. It


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is suggested that this system may have originated during late Tertiary (Miocene) and that during the


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Plio-Pleistocene, when sea-level was lower, a combination of tidal scour and fluvial erosion entrenched the system into


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the exposed sea floor. The present tidal regime and the differing physical characteristics of the strata involved


refAbstractLine:
suggest that the present bathymetry is a result of tidal scour.


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Two previous papers in this series (Goodman et al 1959; Goodman 1960) have established first, that 'die-back' of


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Spartina is associated with some aspect of water-logging and, secondly , that the primary symptom of the condition is


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a soft-rotting of the rhizome apex. The present paper explores the physiological connection between these two


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observations i.e. the nature of the mechanism by which waterlogging induces apical breakdown.


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The history of the spread of Spartina townsendii from its original station near Hythe has been followed in detail. The


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grass now occurs extensively on the south, east and west coasts of Britain, and has been established by planting as


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far north as the Outer Hebrides. A general survey of present British Spartineta has shown that the grass has a wider


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ecological amplitude in tidal areas than is generally believed; it can establish itself on a wide range of


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substrata, and is proving a serious competitor in places to other salt marsh plants. Retrogression of mature Spartina


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swards is taking place in a limited number of localities, particularly in the Hampshire Basin. Such 'die-back' occurs


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predominantly in two different types of sites: either along the edges of the main channels, or in low lying parts in the


refAbstractLine:
centre of marsh segments. Evidence assembled suggests that the cause of 'die-back' is essentially a physiological/


refAbstractLine:
ecological problem. It appears to be associated with particularly soft, wet, fine particle substrata and impeded


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Gives a brief description of the natural environment and its biological habitats; flora and fauna; water...


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This plan has been prepared because of the increasing pressure on Langstone Harbour. It considers use and


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management of the harbour including aspects such as conservation value, public access and commercial uses,


refAbstractLine:
reclamation and dredging. Finally, existing policies and proposals relating to the harbour are reviewed.


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The Nature Conservancy funded Portsmouth Polytechnic to undertake a baseline survey of the vegetation of the


refAbstractLine:
intertidal zone of Chichester Harbour, and to investigate the possibility of biomass measurements by radiometer


refAbstractLine:
measurements of surface reflectance. The requirements of the baseline survey are that the whole intertidal zone of some


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20 square kms should be precisely mapped with full channel detail and one metre contours. The map of the harbour is


refAbstractLine:
being produced at a scale of 1/5000 scale. Work had been done to achieve the greatest degree of species


refAbstractLine:
identification possible. Vegetation units are to be plotted on the basemap, enabling the NCC to have the most detailed


refAbstractLine:
view of Chichester Harbour. Once the basemap and initial survey have been completed, annual monitoring should be


refAbstractLine:
relatively straightforward. The interest in biomass measurements comes from the realisation that ground cover


refAbstractLine:
alone may not fully represent annual change.


refAbstractLine:
Survey techniques currently being used to assess the macroflora and fauna of Chichester and Langstone harbours


refAbstractLine:
are presented here and discussed. Vegetation surveys and infauna sampling on mudflats present special practical


refAbstractLine:
problems mainly associated with the soft, glutinous nature of the sub-stratum. The methods used to minimise some of


refAbstractLine:
these difficulties are described under the following broad headings: movement and portage; choice of sampling sites;


refAbstractLine:
monitoring and sampling, sieving and sorting procedures. Remote sensing using infra-red false colour aerial


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photography is being used to produce a series of vegetation maps of the littoral zone of Chichester Harbour. The


refAbstractLine:
potential of the film will be realised in three ways; by photogrammetric mapping of the intertidal topography at


refAbstractLine:
1/5,000 scale; by the identification and mapping of species/groups onto the topographic base; and by the


refAbstractLine:
measurement of % cover and biomass of selected species groups. The intertidal topography of Chichester Harbour is


refAbstractLine:
complex. The coherent presentation of the wealth of height information available from the film is one of the first


refAbstractLine:
aims. It is intended to get as near to the limit of species identification as possible by using 1/10,000 scale


refAbstractLine:
photographs of the whole harbour. It is believed that within species-groups, tonal variation accounts for differences in


refAbstractLine:
% ground cover and the state of the above ground biomass. Considerable ground sampling and land photography will be


refAbstractLine:
required to determine the relationship between tonal change and the vegetation. The density values in three layers of


refAbstractLine:
film are expected to give some measure of the green, red and infra-red spectral reflectance of the vegetation and that,


refAbstractLine:
in turn, may relate to biomass and ground coverage.


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This report was commissioned with a view to deciding whether Langstone Harbour was capable of receiving double or even


refAbstractLine:
treble the present input of sewage effluent. Data has been collected from a number of sources in an attempt to trace


refAbstractLine:
any changes that might have taken place in the harbour since the volume of sewage effluent discharged into it began to


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increase significantly in 1954, and from this to predict possible changes if the discharge was increased. Sections A


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and B give the general geographical and hydrographical background to Langstone Harbour. Section C deals with


refAbstractLine:
bacteria levels and Section F with some of the chemical characteristics of water in the harbour. Biological aspects


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Summaries of details shown on a series of aerial surveys. This includes coverage of Chichester Harbour, Bosham channel


refAbstractLine:
and harbour, Thorney Island, Emsworth, Langstone, Farlington marshes and Southsea.


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Since the war, (and up until date of publication), an area of 128 acres has been reclaimed on the eastern side of


refAbstractLine:
Portsmouth. This paper examines the proposal to reclaim a further 408 acres and concludes that the scheme appears to


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be a satisfactory method of solving problems of refuse disposal, shortage of land for housing development and


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The marine grass Spartina has undergone considerable reductions in its distribution within many of the harbours


refAbstractLine:
and estuaries in which it occurs. In Langstone Harbour, recession of Spartina has been very dramatic over a


refAbstractLine:
relatively short period of time. Consequently, it is of great interest to those concerned with the ecology,


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conservation and management of the harbour. It is the aim of this project to provide a series of maps of healthy and


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moribund grass in Langstone Harbour which it is hoped, will clearly illustrate its rate of decline. The maps were


refAbstractLine:
compiled from aerial photographs covering a period from 1955 to 1976.


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This paper reviews the information gained over the past thirteen years on Langstone Harbour and relates this to the


refAbstractLine:
behaviour of Spartina in the harbour. Throughout the Solent area, vigorous growth of Spartina and concomitant accretion


refAbstractLine:
of mud ceased some decades ago, and erosion has truncated the seaward margin of the marshes which have been forming


refAbstractLine:
since the turn of the century in association with the hybrid Spartina anglica. Along the open coasts of the Solent, the


refAbstractLine:
marsh behind the retreating edge is still relatively coherent, a condition well exemplified by the marsh at Hythe


refAbstractLine:
where rice grass forms a continuous, almost undissected sward. The Solent Harbours: Poole, Portsmouth, Langstone and


refAbstractLine:
Chichester, have undergone more extensive erosion which has produced the dissection and disintegration of the


refAbstractLine:
marsh-lands. The decline of Spartina provides many problems. A changed hydrography can lead to foreshore erosion,


refAbstractLine:
sediment can be redistributed leading to changes in the nature of the intertidal land surface, exposing gravels and


refAbstractLine:
sands, or depositing particles of a different size. As far as can be established the decline of Spartina seems to


refAbstractLine:
improve the quality of the local ecosystem both aesthetically and biologically with an increase in species


refAbstractLine:
Changes in distribution of Spartina in Langstone Harbour, Hampshire are mapped from a series of aerial photographs


refAbstractLine:
taken over the past forty years. Literature which pertains to the biology and distribution of saltmarsh and to Spartina


refAbstractLine:
in particular is reviewed and the present condition of Spartina marsh in Langstone Harbour is described. A possible


refAbstractLine:
pattern of development as suggested by the present condition of the marsh is postulated and compared with the map


refAbstractLine:
evidence. The probable consequences of the decline in Spartina are reviewed.


refAbstractLine:
The report sets out the conditions and general nature of the problem and lists the various old charts which have been


refAbstractLine:
studied, as well as the dredging programmes from 1896 to 1948. As part of the preliminary investigation, samples were


refAbstractLine:
collected at half-hourly intervals on the spring tides just outside the entrance to the Harbour to determine the amount


refAbstractLine:
of material in suspension in the water. These samples were taken at various levels above the sea bed and a maximum


refAbstractLine:
concentration of suspended material of just over 10 parts per million by weight was obtained at ebb flow. The amount


refAbstractLine:
of material brought down by the Wallington River was insignificant. Previous samples taken by the Admiralty


refAbstractLine:
within the Harbour yielded concentrations of 100 parts per million by weight.


refAbstractLine:
The peak flow through a proposed bridge, which will cross Tipner Lake in Portsmouth Harbour, was predicted by means of


refAbstractLine:
a mathematical model of tidal flow in the reshaped creek. Recommendations were made which would improve the flow


refAbstractLine:
pattern through the bridge. The work was done for the South Eastern Road Construction Unit, Ministry of Transport.


refAbstractLine:
The object of this paper was to obtain a species list and knowledge of the zonation below high-water mark in the


refAbstractLine:
harbours of Portsmouth, Langstone and Chichester. Descriptions are therefore given of the vegetational zones,


refAbstractLine:
This paper looks into reasons for reclaiming sea-bed lying between the mainland and Horsea Island in the north of


refAbstractLine:
Portsmouth Harbour. The area is known as Paulsgrove Lake, and spreads over 408 acres of water and mudlands. The paper


refAbstractLine:
also deals with the proposed utilisation of the reclaimed land, details of an experiment carried out in 1967 on


refAbstractLine:
displacement of silt for construction of bund walls and controlled tipping of refuse. Work began on the project in


refAbstractLine:
May 1969 and the bund walls were completed by March 1970, ready for the commencement of drainage works.


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This plan is included in the Hampshire Local Plan Scheme as a non-statutory plan and will be approved by the Local


refAbstractLine:
Planning Authorities and Hampshire County Council as their policy for the Harbour. It is expected to remain valid for


refAbstractLine:
about ten years but could be subject to review in the event of major land releases adjoining the Harbour or other major


refAbstractLine:
development proposals. The Plan covers the whole of the Harbour and includes, where appropriate, those areas of the


refAbstractLine:
foreshore that have, or will have, some relationship to the Harbour. It therefore includes proposals from existing local


refAbstractLine:
plans where relevant to the Harbour such as the Fareham Eastern Wards Plan, the Camber Plan etc and amplifies the


refAbstractLine:
coastal policies contained in the South Hampshire Structure Plan. The main purpose of the Plan is to decide how the


refAbstractLine:
various development pressures can be accommodated while at the same time conserving the Harbour's landscape and nature


refAbstractLine:
This report sets out to investigate the uses to which the Harbour is being put, and to present an overall picture of


refAbstractLine:
the harbour administration and proposed development.


refAbstractLine:
East Head, near Wittering, West Sussex, comprises a spit of land on the east side of Chichester Harbour entrance,


refAbstractLine:
containing 53 acres of dunes and saltings and 23 acres of sandy beaches with a total coastline of 1.25 miles. This


refAbstractLine:
booklet covers the tidal threat to East Head and the changes which have been experienced along this stretch of coastline


refAbstractLine:
since Roman times. Formation of the dunes is discussed followed by the effect of the weather. Details are given of


refAbstractLine:
the tides and of those which cause the greatest impact on East Head. Finally, the works sanctioned in April 1974,


refAbstractLine:
consisting of barriers and groyne-type structures are described, stressing the need to work with all the


refAbstractLine:
This study includes an investigation of the harbour entrances, with their associated spits and banks as well as


refAbstractLine:
an investigation of the harbours proper. An analysis of the history of the erosion or deposition of the spits, based on


refAbstractLine:
map evidence, is given followed by a description of the present structure of the spits and banks in relation to


refAbstractLine:
sources of material. Modern changes affecting the harbour entrances are commented upon and an investigation is made


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into the movements of beach material in relation to erosion and/or deposition of the spits and banks. Recent attempts to


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prevent short-term erosion and to stabilise deposition are discussed and conclusions as to the origin and possible


refAbstractLine:
future developments at the harbour entrances are drawn. Finally, attention is paid to the harbours themselves, with


refAbstractLine:
particular reference to saltmarsh vegetation, looking at their stability, structure and changes that have occurred.


refAbstractLine:
The geology, topography and hydrography of Chichester Harbour are outlined and summaries are given of data on air


refAbstractLine:
and sea temperatures, salinity and phosphate and silicate concentrations, which had been collected from rafts moored


refAbstractLine:
south-west of Pilsey Sand between 1951 and 1955. 58 algae and 150 animal species are listed from the harbour and


refAbstractLine:
A detailed bibliography, covering 90 references, of papers concerned with Chichester Harbour. These are subdivided into


refAbstractLine:
physical and biological data and secondly, conservation and management data.


refAbstractLine:
This report has been prepared in response to an invitation to participate in the preparation of a Strategic and


refAbstractLine:
Operational Management Plan for Langstone Harbour to be prepared jointly by Hampshire County Council, Portsmouth


refAbstractLine:
City Council, Havant Borough Council, Langstone Harbour Board, Southern Water Authority and Nature Conservancy


refAbstractLine:
Council. Describes the physical and biological characteristics; processes and conservation objectives.


refAbstractLine:
This report gives an appraisal of the coastal sedimentary unit that extends from Selsey to Portsmouth in order to


refAbstractLine:
assess the impact of dredging in Chichester Harbour approach on the Hayling Island coastline. The author concludes that


refAbstractLine:
the practice of removing gravel from the sedimentary system is detrimental to the coast protection of Hayling. In these


refAbstractLine:
circumstances, it is recommended that steps should be taken by the Harbour Conservancy to ensure that only the minimum


refAbstractLine:
amount of dredging is performed in order to meet reasonable navigational requirements. A possible compromise would be to


refAbstractLine:
use the dredged material to augment the natural feed to the coastline.


refAbstractLine:
A brief introduction is followed by a statement of the scientific interest of the harbour which details birds and


refAbstractLine:
plants. The location of feeding, resting and nesting sites are outlined. The major plant communities in the harbour are


refAbstractLine:
also briefly described. The relation of the natural history interest to other harbour uses is discussed under the


refAbstractLine:
headings of sailing, boating, hovercraft and helicopters, shooting, fishing and other forms of public pressure. In a


refAbstractLine:
conclusion and recommendation section, the major conservation requirement is considered to be that the most


refAbstractLine:
important nature conservation areas (and their adjacent buffer zones) are kept free from the needs of marine


refAbstractLine:
recreation, which is identified as the main future use of the harbour. A final section compares Chichester Harbour


refAbstractLine:
The inlets and creeks of Chichester Harbour provide a haven for thousands of small boats. Pressure on the harbour,


refAbstractLine:
within easy reach of London, is extreme. The author describes measures being taken to protect Chichester Harbour


refAbstractLine:
which allow its potential for recreation to be exploited without risk of overuse.


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This study was to investigate the influence of the effluent discharged from Budds Farm sewage works on the ecology and


refAbstractLine:
amenities of Langstone Harbour. The declared aim of local and national government is that the Harbour should be


refAbstractLine:
preserved for wildlife and recreational amenity. The movement of the sewage effluent within the Harbour was


refAbstractLine:
investigated by chemical analysis and hydrographic techniques including tracer surveys. The results showed that


refAbstractLine:
the effluent from Budds Farm accumulates in the Harbour and in certain tidal conditions, a quantity of effluent


refAbstractLine:
equivalent to more than a full day's discharge may be present in the Harbour water. It was also demonstrated that


refAbstractLine:
sewage released from Fort Cumberland entered and spread throughout Langstone Harbour, though at lower concentrations


refAbstractLine:
than the Budds Farm effluent. Biological studies showed that green seaweeds respond to increased effluent concentrations


refAbstractLine:
by increasing their rate of growth. The quantity of green seaweeds has increased in the Harbour in parallel with the


refAbstractLine:
increase in the quantity of effluent discharged. Large quantities of green seaweed accumulate in parts of the


refAbstractLine:
Harbour, changing the nature of the mud surface, causing it to become malodorous and reducing the number and weight of


refAbstractLine:
animals within the mud. These animals form the food on which the birds and fish of the Harbour depend. The report


refAbstractLine:
concludes that sewage effluent discharge into the Harbour should be reduced from their present level.


refAbstractLine:
The stratigraphy of the Pleistocene deposits at Stone is described. A threefold division of the deposits is apparent


refAbstractLine:
providing evidence of two separate phases of aggradation. The earlier phase is represented by the fluvial Lower


refAbstractLine:
Gravel, occupying a depression cut in Tertiary rocks to below present sea-level. This aggradation predates the rise


refAbstractLine:
of sea-level in the Ipswichian interglacial. Ipswichian organic deposits rest on the dissected surface of the Lower


refAbstractLine:
Gravel. Alternating brackish and fresher water horizons suggest an intermittent rise of sea-level in Zone f of the


refAbstractLine:
interglacial. The fluvial Upper Gravel appears to overlie the Zone f deposits, and may indicate deteriorating climatic


refAbstractLine:
conditions towards the end of the interglacial.


refAbstractLine:
The geological maps of the Institute of Geological Sciences, pre-existing borehole information and 138 boreholes drilled


refAbstractLine:
for the Industrial Minerals Assessment Unit (IMAU) form the basis for the assessment of the sand and gravel resources of


refAbstractLine:
the country around Chichester and north of Bognor Regis, Sussex. All the deposits in the district that might be


refAbstractLine:
potentially workable for sand and gravel have been investigated and a simple statistical method has been used


refAbstractLine:
to estimate the volume. The reliability of the volume estimates is given at the symmetrical 95% probability level.


refAbstractLine:
The mineral bearing ground is divided into eight resource blocks, containing between 7.5 and 16.1 sq. km of potentially


refAbstractLine:
workable sand and gravel. For each block the geology of the deposits is described, and the mineral-bearing area, the


refAbstractLine:
mean thickness' of over-burden and mineral and the mean gradings of the mineral are stated; detailed borehole data


refAbstractLine:
are also given. The geology, the positions of the boreholes and the outlines of the resource blocks are shown on the


refAbstractLine:
A geomorphological and geological description of the Pleistocene cliff-formation at Brighton.


refAbstractLine:
Pollen, diatoms, foraminifers, molluscs and ostracods are described from a Pleistocene temperate stage channel filling


refAbstractLine:
of marine sediments on the foreshore at Bracklesham Bay. Pollen analysis indicates the presence of a regional mixed


refAbstractLine:
coniferous and deciduous forest during the period of the channel filling, of a type known from the later parts of


refAbstractLine:
temperate stages older than the Ipswichian. Diatom and foraminifer analyses both indicate a shallowing sequence of


refAbstractLine:
sediments, with higher energy tidal channel deposition at the base of the sequence and intertidal mud flat deposition


refAbstractLine:
towards the top. The sediments appear to have been deposited at a time of falling sea level. At the close of


refAbstractLine:
sedimentation mean tidal level was about 0.7-1.0m below its present position. Evidence for the age of the channel


refAbstractLine:
filling is discussed from the point of view of the pollen assemblage, foraminifers and ostracods. It is older than the


refAbstractLine:
Ipswichian and may be late Hoxnian or late Cromerian in age.


refAbstractLine:
The coastal plain of West Sussex is traversed from east to west by the Littlehampton and Portsdown anticlines, each of


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which brings up a large inlier of chalk. This paper gives detailed descriptions of these inliers and discusses their


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relation to the raised beaches of West Sussex.


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Recent work on the Quaternary deposits associated with the so-called '100 foot' raised beach of West Sussex, near


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Chichester, is reviewed. Archaeological, sedimentological, fossil and geomorphological data are reported and discussed


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and tentative conclusions drawn on the Quaternary history of the area, in relation to that of the English Channel.


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A temporary cliff-section in the superficial deposits of the Sussex Coastal Plain revealed some new details of the


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lithological composition of these beds, in particular of the gravels which lie between the Coombe Rock proper and the


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Brickearth. A small fauna of freshwater mollusca was obtained from lenticular beds of chalky silt lying within


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the gravels and evidence of human occupation from the Brickearth . On the basis of the lithology of the beds and


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the contained organic remains an attempt has been made to deduce the geographical conditions obtaining during their


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This report examines the mineral resources of South Hampshire and the demands made upon them both at present and


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in the future. The report includes a brief review of the regional mineral supply and demand situation and likely


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trends in the availability, use and methods of exploitation of resources. The likely increasing role of offshore mineral


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Several lines of evidence for former glaciation of the English Channel are considered. These include the following


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major geomorphological features: (1) extensive areas of flat featureless sea bed bounded by cliffs with residual


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steep-sided rock masses rising about 60-150m above them, (2) terrace forms bounded by breaks in slope or low cliffs, (3)


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palaeovalley systems related to the present land drainage, (4) enclosed deeps (fosses); all except (3) may be


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attributed to a glacial origin. The distribution of erratics on the Channel floor and in the modern and raised beaches of


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its coasts are attributed to widespread Saalian glaciation. This glaciation was responsible for the deposition of


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morainic material at Selsey and the damming-up of glacial Lake Solent. The so-called '100 foot raised beach' of West


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Sussex is now re-interpreted as a fluvio-glacial deposit laid down at the northern margin of the English Channel ice. It


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is thought that at the height of the Saalian glaciation, mean sea-level fell to between 90 and 180m below O.D. and


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that for a time the ice was grounded near the western margin of the continental shelf. Possible reconstruction's of the


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limits and main movements of the Weichselian and Saalian ice sheets covering the British Isles and English Channel are


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Detailed description of the geology in this area of West Sussex.


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Explanation of Geological Sheet 332, Bognor and its surrounding area.


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Fossiliferous late-Pleistocene deposits on the foreshore of the English Channel at Selsey (Sussex), Stone (Hampshire),


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and near Arromanches (Calvados), have been investigated. At each site analyses of pollen, macroscopic plant remains and


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Mollusca have been made and from these vegetational, faunal, environmental and climatic conditions have been


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reconstructed. At Selsey, it is shown that the deposits, which lie in a channel cut in Eocene rocks, are of


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Ipswichian (Eemian or Last) Interglacial age. Pollen analysis of the sediments of the channel filling show they


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were formed during zones b, c, d, e and f of this interglacial, which show the succession from open parkland vegetation to


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birch to pine to oak dominated forests. Analysis of the macroscopic plant remains and of the molluscs suggests a


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rapid climatic amelioration at the beginning of the interglacial, so that by the beginning of zone f there are


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indications of summer warmth exceeding that of the present day in the area. In the upper part of the channel filling,


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estuarine deposits overlie freshwater deposits. It is shown that the marine transgression causing the change was taking


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place in zone f and was probably responsible later for the raised beach deposits which overlie the channel deposits and


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which form the cliffs at Selsey Bill. At Stone pollen analysis shows that brackish water deposits, below present


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high tide level, were formed in zone f of the Ipswichian Interglacial. At that time Quercus, Pinus and Acer were the


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chief trees forming the forest in the region. The macroscopic plant remains and the Mollusca indicate that the


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deposit was formed under saltmarsh conditions. As at Selsey, the raised beach gravel found overlying the interglacial


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deposit is related to the same marine transgression that produced the brackish conditions. The relative land and


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sea-level changes indicated by all the deposits are considered. It is concluded that in the English Channel,


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during the Ipswichian (Eemian) Interglacial, sea level rose above its present height in zone f and fell below it during


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zone i. The Selsey-Brighton raised beach and the Nomannien 2 raised beach are correlated with the same marine


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transgression. It is pointed out that if the Selsey-Brighton raised beach is to be correlated with the Monastirian 2


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level of 7-8m, then this level should be correlated with the Ipswichian (Eemian) Interglacial.


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In 1932, during the early stages of the construction of the undercliff sea wall between Brighton and Rottingdean,


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whereby the foot of the cliff has now been protected from marine erosion and its top from undue recession in future,


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opportunity was taken to examine the sections of Coombe Rock and Raised Beach exposed at Black Rock. This paper describes


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these sections and lists the levels and thickness' of the raised beach.


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Describes the drift deposits to be found in the area around Chichester.


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A revised lithostratigraphical classification of the Late Eocene and Early Oligocene succession of the Hampshire Basin


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is presented. The "Solent Formation" is raised to group status and redefined to include all the Palaeogene strata


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included in the "Fluvio-marine Formation" of the early Geological Survey Memoirs. Within the Solent Group, three


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mappable lithostatigraphical units are recognised: the Headon Hill Formation (equivalent to the Headon and Osborne


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Beds of earlier authors), the Bembridge Limestone Formation and the Bouldnor Formation (equivalent to the Bembridge


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Marls and Hamstead Beds of earlier authors). Each of the formations and the members recognised within them is defined


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in terms of stratotype, lithology, contacts, distribution and thickness.


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Previous records of Quaternary occurrences at Bowleaze Cove are noted. A series of deposits is described, with faunal


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and floral lists and reports on early pottery. Some molluscan faunas are compared with those from (1)the


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Holocene white tufa and an undescribed Holocene grey tufa, at Spring Bottom, near Ringstead and (2)the Romano-British


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layer at Blashenwell, near Corfe, for which three deposits no faunal lists have been published hitherto and (3)the Iron


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Age levels at Maiden Castle, near Dorchester, all three localities being in south Dorset. Conclusions as to the age


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and origin of the Bowleaze deposits are drawn.


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A brief description of the Pleistocene estuarine sediments on the foreshore at Stone. Includes a pollen diagram from


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Briefly describes the stratigraphy, flora and mollusca of the Stone Point Deposits.


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Summarises published work on the exact stratigraphical position of the Eocene strata of Hengistbury head and


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An account of the geology and geomorpholgical history of Southampton Water and details of the primitive inhabitants


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An abundance of deposits of Quaternary age exists in the Portsmouth region, and many aspects of the present landscape


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owe their origin to the Quaternary period. This essay aims to review the present state of Quaternary knowledge, and to


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discuss some of the major conflicts of interpretation which exist at the present time. The results of some recent work


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are incorporated and gaps in present knowledge identified.


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The results from the analysis of a peat sample, obtained from a level of -59 ft O.D. near the Weevil Lake in Gosport


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in Portsmouth Harbour, provide a clear although restricted correlation between vegetational history, land- and


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sea-level movements, and former distribution of certain species of the British flora.


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It has been known for some time that fresh-water deposits are submerged in the estuary at Southampton and extensive


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peat beds have been described during excavations of the numerous docks on this harbour. In March 1932, the authors


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were allowed to examine the last remaining section of the peat beds cut through in digging out the new Graving Dock of


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the Southern Railway. This section showed three horizons of abundant prostrate trees, the lowest probably pine and the


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others alder, whilst the upper peat surface below the harbour mud was penetrated thickly with vertical alder roots


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from some alder-fen since destroyed. At two horizons, pockets of shell marl were particularly abundant, making


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somewhat discontinuous layers. The whole section suggested deposition in a wide river valley filled with fen, which at


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some times became dry and at other times shallowly flooded. The borings of the Southern Railway engineers indicated that


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similar deep deposits occurred in a belt across the region of the reclaimed dock area, and doubtless showed the course


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of the ancient valley of the River Test.


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This study is based upon shingle features resulting from marine transport and deposition on the northern shore of the


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Solent and leads to a discussion of other shingle formations.


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This booklet includes three reports by the Solent Sailing Conference Working Party. The first briefly summarises the


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interests of the Solent Sailing Conference and offers various recommendations for different areas of the Solent.


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The Harbour Capacities and Boating Facilities report provides a view of likely demands for facilities and an


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analysis of the physical and navigational capacity of individual Solent Harbours. The report's conclusion is that


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there is, and will continue to be, a strong demand for additional moorings. It suggests that the demand for


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moorings will continue to outstrip even the most optimistic forecasts of supply. The report on biological resources sets


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out the case for respecting the national, and in many cases, the international, significance of the Solent for nature


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conservation. The Study Group's conclusion is that care is needed to ensure that the basic biological environment


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should not be disturbed. So far as potential for new marinas is concerned, this conclusion means that, in most cases, the


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Group sees a strong argument against permitting further reclamation of the intertidal areas. However, the comments


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and policies advocated still leave a number of locations, principally along the already developed coast, where there


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would be only minimal conflict between additional boating facilities and nature conservation.


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The conservancy problems of any major terminal port are governed by certain features. In this paper the Port of


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Southampton is examined within the context of these features and certain significant facts are recorded; recent work to


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improve the facilities of the port is then described and possibilities of further long-term development are


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discussed. The features referred to may be classified as the geological history; the tidal regime; the layout of the


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estuarine area and the relation of its major axis to the direction of the strongest prevailing winds; the


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characteristics of the ships requiring the port services; the nature of the bed of the estuary and approach and its


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suitability for the dredging of straight channels and finally, whether the terminal facilities are demanded by the


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In order to improve the water supply on the Isle of Wight, a water main was laid, in 1980, from Fawley in Hampshire to


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Cowes on the Isle of Wight, capable of carrying 10 Ml per day. This paper outlines the reasons for the scheme and the


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way it was carried out, including the construction of a water treatment works.


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Following a brief discussion of the distribution of salinity throughout the Solent estuarine system as a whole, the


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region is divided into twelve areas and each is considered separately. Data is provided on concentrations of trace


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metals; nutrient concentrations and general water quality.


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The levels of some trace metals have been studied in Southampton Water. Particulate iron, though variable, is


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generally high and the concentration seems to be correlated with the amount of particulate matter. Zinc is approximately


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doubled in concentration inside Southampton Water, but much higher levels are occasionally encountered. Copper and


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nickel are only somewhat higher and total mercury is lower inside Southampton Water than in Solent Waters. Zinc and


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copper are concentrated approximately 30,000 times on a dry mass basis by Mercenaria mercenaria. Mercury is concentrated


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by Mercenaria and other bivalves; the mud which is especially rich in total mercury may represent an important


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source of mercury for these animals. Primary nutrients, phosphate, nitrate and ammonium, increase in concentration


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from seaward on proceeding up the estuary. Surface waters appear to be especially rich in nitrate and ammonium. Gross


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pollution seems unlikely in view of low nitrite concentration and high oxygen values virtually throughout


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the estuary. The high rate of turnover of organic substrates by heterotrophic organisms may be associated with relatively


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large amounts of organic matter in Southampton Water. This has to some extent been confirmed by direct surveys of


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particulate and dissolved organic carbon which also suggest that regional differences exist. Higher levels of organic


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matter occur near the head of the estuary, near Marchwood, the Docks and the mouth of the River Itchen. Although the


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thermal changes in Southampton Water appear to have been slight, some increase in winter minimal temperatures and in


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summer maxima have occurred, especially in the Marchwood area. No evidence exists of deleterious effects on marine


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organisms. Phytoplankton can apparently endure rises of at least 10 degrees centigrade for short periods without


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injurious effects. The density of zooplankton has not decreased; possibly certain species have been favoured by


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thermal changes. A marked increase in Mercenaria mercenaria population may be associated with the small thermal rise and


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remarkably high population densities are encountered. Spawning appears to be correlated with summer temperatures


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A discussion of the types of mud grass to be found along the margins of Southampton Water and descriptions of their


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different distributions. The paper refers to the three varieties of Spartina: stricta, alterniflora and townsendi,


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to be found in varying extents along the Hamble River, the Itchen, the Test and the Beaulieu River.


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Describes the past, present and future port development at Southampton.


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A description of a hand-drawn map taken from a survey in 1672 giving the names of the fields and their tenants and


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the coastline. A copy of the map, however, is not provided and is now preserved in the Office of the Ordnance Survey at


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Previous models of the evolution of Hurst Castle Spit over-emphasised longshore growth at the expense of other


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processes, particularly rise in sea-level. Initially, a Pleistocene valley system was submerged creating a tidal


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strait, the West Solent, between Christchurch Bay and the East Solent. This almost certainly caused a major


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hydrodynamic change, transforming much of Christchurch Bay and the West Solent from a low to a high tidal energy


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environment. Hurst Castle Spit and the Shingles Bank then began to form due to a combination of an easterly littoral


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drift, offshore gravel movement due to the high tidal energy, a rising sea-level, the transgression of Hurst Beach


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due to overwashing and the formation of recurves due to waves in the West Solent. The growth of the Shingles Bank


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due to offshore sediment movement from Hurst Castle Spit was of particular importance because of its influence on the


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wave energy along Hurst Beach. Significant local supplies of shingle in the vicinity of Hurst Castle Spit, reworked from


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Quaternary deposits, were also of importance. Thus it is not a classic multi-recurved spit and the transgressive segment,


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Hurst Beach has much in common with barrier coastlines. The same processes are continuing to shape Hurst Castle Spit at


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present, with the additional effects of human interference in the coastal sediment system. The construction of sea


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defence at Milford-on-Sea in the period 1936 to 1968 has modified the sediment budget and Hurst Castle Spit is


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experiencing a phase of rapid evolution: maximum recession rates have increased from 1.5m/a (1867-1968) to 3.5m/a


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(1968-1982). It is difficult to quantify the exact role of sea-level rise in the present evolution of Hurst Castle


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Spit. The future evolution of Hurst Castle Spit will depend largely on man. If there is no further interference, which


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is highly unlikely, the beach volume will continue to decline, resulting in a further increase in the rate of


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recession. Ultimately, a true tidal breach will probably form, marking a new phase in the evolution of Hurst Castle


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Spit and its environs. However, shingle renourishment, or another coastal engineering solution will probably be


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undertaken. The future rate of sea-level rise will have important long-term influences on all these options.


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The Barton Clay crops out along a 4.8km stretch of the Hampshire coast and together with its capping of Plateau


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Gravels forms a cliff profile averaging around 30-37m high. The original classic work on the geology of the Barton Clay


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had suggested a total thickness of only 34.5m; more recent work involving boring and levelling on the cliff face has


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shown the formation to be 46.4m thick. Active degradation of the outcrop creates a markedly stepped profile, relatively


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flat bench levels being separated from one another by steeper scarp slopes. The benches are underlain by up to 6m


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of slipped debris or bench rubble. The scarps are formed by exposures of the solid Barton Clay and Plateau Gravel in the


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case of the top scarp. The interface between the bench rubble and Barton Clay is formed by a shear surface, an


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underground continuation of the scarp surfaces, which has been polished and grooved as a result of the seaward


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movement of the bench rubble. These shear surfaces are developed along particular, identifiable stratigraphic


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horizons within the Barton Clay and tend to develop along these horizons irrespective of the height of the latter


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within the cliff profile. Variations in the morphology occur laterally along the outcrop and can be related to the


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erosional history and partly to the geology. Five individual processes of degradation are particularly active on the


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undercliffs; these comprise bench sliding which is sliding of the bench rubble over the shear surfaces, collapse of the


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scarp slopes or scarp slumping, wearing down of the scarp slope by weathering or scarp spalling, and erosion by


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mud-flows and running water. Both mud-flows and streams when well developed cut through bench rubble and into the scarp


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slope and locally destroy the stepped profile. The current activity of these processes is due to marine erosion of the


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toe, the net result of the processes being a progressive retreat of the cliff top averaging over one metre per year


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A section of beach on the south coast of England has been under surveillance for five years, from March 1966 until


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March 1971 During this period, two permeable groynes of the Makepeace Wood type were constructed. Beach cross sectional


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areas and rates of accretion were compared before and after groyne construction. The groynes caused a build-up in beach


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Selection of papers on the problems of coastal erosion; planning and economics; sea level change; waves and littoral


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drift; coastal stability and vegetation; design, construction and maintenance; groynes and beach nourishment;


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structural form and materials and cliff stabilisation.


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Newspaper report on the success of the new sea defences installed at Hayling Island withstanding high tides and


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heavy waves. The new wooden constructions replace faggots, bundles of brushwood, previously utilised to break the force


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Report on the loss of beach material and flooding at Eastoke and proposed works set to put a halt to the erosion.


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Reporting that the œ40,000 plan to cover the whole of the new beach at Hayling Island with a one inch layer of pea


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shingle, in an attempt to ameliorate the appearance of the beach, has been shelved until March 1986.


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Newspaper report on the devastation of the shoreline at Hayling where a œ20,000 sea defence project currently under


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way was ruined by the storm. The scheme was intended to stop flooding in the Eastoke and Sandy Point area. Following the


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storm, experts in sea defence techniques were called in to examine the œ4.5m beach replenishment scheme planned. Locals


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argue that the beach is naturally rebuilding.


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In the field of coastal engineering and sedimentology, the distribution of particle size in sand and gravel deposits


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reveals valuable indications of the conditions under which the sediment was deposited and its suitability for


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exploitation as concrete aggregate or for beach replenishment. This paper describes in detail the use of the


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computer programme PSD4 which was developed to analyse a large number of sediment samples taken for the Borough of


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Havant's coast protection research. The sediment distribution patterns deduced from these surveys are


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Provides details of the beach replenishment scheme at Hayling Island. Begins with a history of coast protection at


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Hayling followed by what site investigations were carried out prior to the scheme. This included hydrographic surveys


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and a complete littoral sediment budget for the coastal unit. Specific details of the beach fill design are covered


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including proposed height of the crest of the new beach and the berm width and beach slope. Fill for the beach came from


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the Owers Bank off Littlehampton. This was dredged, transported to the shore with barges and then distributed


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appropriately. There was a 24% loss of fill during this shipment. Since completion, the angular beach plan has been


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smoothed by the sea but there has been only 5% loss of volume. Approximately half of the length of the beach is


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gaining volume and these sections display large scale cusp development.


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Hydraulics Research was asked by the Director of Technical Services, Borough of Havant, to comment on the feasibility


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of replenishing eroded beaches at the east end of Hayling Island with shingle from Gunner Point, as proposed by Havant


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Borough Council. Excavation of relic ridges at Gunner Point is feasible and HR agree that the borrow pit should be


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infilled to avoid the possibility of breaching. A wave refraction study has shown that scraping of material from


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the surface of the East Winner can be carried out without affecting the stability of adjacent beaches. The material


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can be used to fill in the proposed borrow pit. It is recommended that the nourished area should be monitored


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regularly to show when "topping up" is necessary.


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This feasibility study was originally proposed in a report made by N.V. Grontmij of de Bilt, the Netherlands, concerning


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a reclamation project on Eastney beach, Portsmouth. In this original report, the future reclamation was to serve the


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Portsmouth expansion and provide residential and recreational areas. The 1975 report covers the following


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aspects. Firstly, it gives a record of the hydrodynamic conditions to which the Portsmouth and Hayling Island


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coastlines are submitted i.e. tidal streams and the winds and waves which affect the sediment transport pattern and


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determine the shape and slope of the coastline. Design criteria of the scheme are that the reclamation should be


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sited between Langstone Channel and St. George Road, Southsea and that the shape and area of the reclamation should be


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designed in such a way as is justified by the hydrodynamic and morphological conditions. Alternative designs are


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discussed, the final choice being based on both financial and technical considerations. Finally, the effects and


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consequences of the designed reclamation are discussed. This includes implications on the adjacent areas and conditions


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and a technical evaluation of land use possibilities and conservancy of the reclamation.


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A discussion of the Grontmij investigation programme including a description of the collected data on wave


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measurements and patterns, hydrographic survey, beach profiling and sampling, seabed sediment sampling, tidal


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streams and tidal fall measurements. In addition, three reports written by Mr D. Carter are included. The first gives


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the geological and geomorphological background of the Eastern Solent, Spithead and associated creeks, harbours and


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estuaries. The second paper summarises existing knowledge on the morphology and sediment distribution of the Solent


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whilst the third is a report on the beach sediment samples taken from eastern Southsea beach and West Winner.


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A primary survey of plant distribution was made using random sampling. The sample quadrants are classified using the


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method of association-analysis proposed by Williams and Lambert. The ecological validity of the resulting quadrant


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groups is assessed using quantitative vegetation information and descriptions of the site and situation of the quadrants.


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The characteristics of soil samples, taken from selected sample quadrants, are considered in relation to the


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classification groups and distance from the sea. The distributions of certain species of vascular plants and the


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species diversity of some of the sample quadrants are related to distance from the sea.


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Newspaper report on the complaints regarding the sea defence scheme carried out on Hayling Island. A shingle barrier,


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designed to protect the seafront from storm damage and flooding, has replaced the once sandy beach area. Critics


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describe the scheme as a monumental local government blunder.


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Comment on varying figures of mean sea level rise which have been calculated in recent years. It appears that anomalies


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have been produced because, over the years in question, the zero on the tide recorder chart was not set precisely at


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Shingle dumped on the beach at Hill Head as part of a sea defence scheme is being washed away. Only one tenth of the


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Local residents complain about the coastal defence works being carried out at Hill Head. It has involved the loss of


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marsh and swamp land, valuable to wildlife.


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Report on the proposed coast protection scheme at Lee-on-Solent. Discusses siting of seawall, its level and


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design; cliff dressing and construction of groynes. Estimated costs are provided.


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Report concerning the revised costs of coast protection works at Hillhead Harbour to Lee-on-Solent boundary.


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Report on the state of the foreshore at Giblet Ore in view of the partial collapse of the private sea wall just east of


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the Grantham sea wall and the state of the foreshore between Giblet Ore and the car park.


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This booklet is a summary of the Environmental Statement prepared by the C.E.G.B. to accompany its application for


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consent to build a new coal-fired power station at Fawley. This statement describes the potentially significant effects


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that the construction and operation of Fawley 'B' would have on the local environment and the ways in which the C.E.G.B.


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intends to avoid, reduce or remedy these effects. It describes why the new power station is needed; the site and


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access to it; its principal technical features; its construction; landscaping and architectural design;


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ecological effects; impact on sailing activities; noise and finally social and economic effects.


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Warren Farm Spit is a sand and shingle spit which has grown rapidly during this century from a Ness feature on the


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Solent coast of Hampshire at a point about 1 mile south


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-west of the mouth of the Beaulieu River. From 1953 to 1963 its


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growth has been recorded by a series of plane table surveys. The 1963 map shows that the spit, which has been built upon


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a mud bank called "Warren Flat" on the Admiralty charts, has three main components. They are in order of age: 1.An old


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shingle spit, lower than the main one and now deprived of new shingle. 2.The main spit with a complex of laterals. 3.A


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narrow spit running out to the distal end along the seaward edge of a marsh colonised by Spartina Townsendii. Comparison


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of the 1963 map with those made in 1962, 1959, 1955 and 1954 reveals an irregular growth of the spit. Another interesting


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feature is the change in the manner of growth at different stages. Comparison with air photos and earlier maps show the


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important role played by the spartina sward. Unlike the neighbouring Hurst Castle Spit, this one developed in the


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narrow waters of the Solent, where the fetch is somewhat restricted. These aspects are examined with the aid of a


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diagram to show the direction resultant of wind work. Examination of earlier maps suggests that the spit may show


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The general survey of British Spartineta described in the previous paper in this series (Goodman et al 1959) revealed


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that typical Spartina 'die-back' was confined to limited areas with a very soft clay substratum. It occurred


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characteristically along the edges of tidal channels or in pans in the centre of marsh segments, though retrogression


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of the forward margins of swards was also noted in places. Preliminary observations showed that symptoms of 'die-back'


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included failure of the rhizomes, production of fewer and weaker tillers, and a general yellowing of the plant. Since


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such symptoms were essentially morphological in nature, some form of growth analysis seemed an obvious tool for further


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investigation of the problem. This paper reports on this further analysis.


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A simulation model of a particular coastal spit is presented to illustrate the value of such models in studying the


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processes that lead to spit formation. Hurst Castle Spit in Hampshire was chosen for the model as it has a distinctive


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form due to the operation of several easily identified wave types. The processes forming the spit have been discussed by


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W.V. Lewis. The main ridge, which is composed of shingle, is prolonged by westerly waves, while storm waves build it up.


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The recurves are formed of material drifted round the end of the main ridge by waves from a southerly point. Waves from


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the north-east, coming down the Solent, build the lateral recurves. These become longer and more numerous toward the


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distal end of the spit. The computer program simulates the operation of waves from the west, storm waves,


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south-easterly waves, and waves from the north-east. In addition, a depth factor simulates the increasing depth of


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water offshore. This accounts for the increase in number of recurves towards the distal end. A refraction factor allows


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the curvature of the main ridge to be simulated. The proportion of random numbers allocated to these variables


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can be adjusted in the data input to elucidate the part they play in the formation of the spit. This close fit of the


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standard spit to the real spit suggests that the controlling variables are being correctly simulated.


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The presence of submerged peat-beds at Hurst Castle Spit and at the Pennington Marshes is reported. The organic remains


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have been examined and suggest a Sub-Boreal age. Therefore, these peat beds provide additional evidence for the


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postulated still-stand, or even temporary regression at this time. The research potential of these and similar deposits


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in the Solent estuarine system is emphasised.


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This paper briefly covers the composition of the spit, the movement of shingle and the processes responsible, including


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wave action. The rapidity of changes is mentioned, particularly those which occur at times of high tide and


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violent storms which could result in a breaching of the spit. Protective measures have been installed in order to


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check the movement of shingle and prevent a breaching which would result in extensive flooding and serious damage to


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An extensive field investigation to study the tidal hydraulics of the West Solent entailed the installation and


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maintenance of six autographic tide recorders. In addition, two tide level surveys were conducted, during a spring and


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neap tide, to establish the reliability of the recorded data and to obtain a more detailed representation of tidal


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behaviour. The tidal records, collected over a period of one year, were digitised using a modified sonic device and a new


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programming technique, which extracted tidal levels at 15 minute intervals. Additional programs were also developed to


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arrange the processed data into a more convenient form for computer analysis. Considerable modifications to an existing


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one-dimensional explicit finite difference scheme included many unique features. The West Solent model, which could be


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easily adapted for other tidal channels, incorporates the following; data prime, selectable boundary stations,


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adjustment for transverse gradients and the generation of tidal flows based on both the computed and recorded tidal


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levels. Flows in the East Solent and entrance to Southampton Water were computed from a secondary model. The West Solent


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model was calibrated by using field levels from the intermediate stations. A technique was developed for


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establishing the most likely friction factor value relevant for each reach. The semi-diurnal residual flows, based on


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the recorded tidal levels, were computed in each section of channel and the average values within four different reaches


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were obtained. Those in the total length of channel between Calshot and Totland were correlated with both meteorological


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and tidal conditions. The residual flow was predominantly towards the south-west with an average value of 1400 cubic


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metres per second. Occasional reversals in direction occurred particularly during periods of strong


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south-westerly wind, low barometric pressure and small tidal range. The result of the regression analysis has


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produced a prediction equation which may be used to assess both the magnitude and direction of the residual flow during


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This is an analysis of investigations performed on the Western Solent Tidal Channel during the period of August


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1970 to August 1971. Measurements of the mean flow were taken in a cross section of the channel mid way between


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Calshot and Yarmouth, where tidal heights were simultaneously recorded. Satisfactory measurements over 13h


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tidal cycles were obtained on the 24th May 1971 (Spring Tide) and on the 2nd June 1971 (Neap Tide) and are the basis


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of the present analysis. Other days of measurements gave complementary information on the mean current. The first


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part of the analysis deals with the determination of mean values of the dimensionless friction coefficient of the


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channel (K). Estimates of (K), using simplified assumptions gave K=0.0039 for the steady part of the flow and K=0.0126


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at the turn of the current. Calculation of K over the tidal cycle were made using a technique which fits numerical


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solutions of an ordinary differential equation applied to the mean tidal flow, to the measured values, by varying K.


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Results have shown that during the steady part of the process K varied from Neap to Spring tides. On average


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K=0.0039 for Spring tides and K=0.0045 for Neap tides. During the turn of the current the results were anomalous,


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showing that the friction term is only partially satisfactory for calculations of the mean flow. Physical


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causes for this are analysed and an alternative way of writing the friction term, on the basis of the present


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results, is discussed. The second part of this analysis deals with the calculation of the residual mean path of the


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current per tidal cycle. Calculated values of the mean current for a constant value of K showed a phase lag of 15


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to 30 minutes in relation to the measured values. This time lag is constant over several tidal cycles. Determinations of


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the mean current path were found to be dependent on the mean heights taken for calculation. This result is discussed in


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detail. The mean path was correlated with atmospheric pressure and wind. The results show that the residual path


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in the Western Solent is significantly correlated with the meteorological parameters under the conditions of East and


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West winds. The third part of this study is devoted to the presentation of the relevant computer programmes developed


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for the present project. The method of using these programmes and their capabilities are commented upon.


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Description of a spit located at the mouth of the Beaulieu River, as yet not formally named, which has shown a


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spectacular advance since approximately 1956. Using Ordnance Survey maps, the sequence of development is described and


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finally a brief consideration of the source of the shingle is made.


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In 1980, the Taunton Laboratory of I.O.S. was commissioned by the Department of the Environment to undertake a research


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programme to study 'the physical processes governing the movement of gravel on the sea bed' as a background to


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improving knowledge on the impacts of dredging on sediment transport. This was to be conducted in 3 phases: 1) a


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literature review of previous work on the movement of gravel in rivers, laboratory flumes and the sea, 2) field


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measurements of gravel movement under tidal currents, including consideration of threshold flow conditions and


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transport rates, 3) field measurements of gravel movement under waves and combined wave and tide conditions. The first


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phase of the study was published by Hammond, 1982. This report deals with work leading up to the second aspect of


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the study and in particular with a) the selection of a suitable site for observations of gravel movements under


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tidal currents alone and b) the detailed description of sea bed morphology and sediment characteristics at a site in the


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In 1924, a Pleistocene deposit containing remains of spruce (Picea) and fruits of an arctic buttercup (Ranunculus


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hyperboreus) was discovered in a sewer trench in the grounds of Bembridge School, Isle of Wight. This deposit has been


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reinvestigated by means of two boreholes which show that the organic deposits rest directly on Bembridge Marls (Lower


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Oglicene) and are overlain by 3m of head which is devoid of fossils. A new lithostratigraphical unit, the Steyne Wood


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Clay, is proposed for the organic deposit which lies between 38-40m O.D. The contained fossils (pollen, plant


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macrofossils, diatoms, Mollusca, Ostracoda and foraminifera) are described and demonstrate that this unit was deposited


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in an estuarine environment. The pollen spectra suggests that this occurred during the post-temperate zone of a


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Middle Pleistocene interglacial. The Steyne Wood Clay thus represents the highest fossiliferous intertidal deposit of


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Middle Pleistocene age yet described from the British Isles. Its relationship with the Slindon-Goodwood raised beach and


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other related deposits which lie at a similar elevation is discussed.


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An examination of the Pleistocene sea-level history of the Bembridge area using stratigraphy and pollen diagrams.


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Mudslides form an important agent of degradation on over-consolidated clay cliffs. This paper presents some


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results of investigations of two coastal mudslides in Oligocene clays at Bouldnor Cliff, Isle of Wight. In one


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case (mudslide 1), borings are made to establish the location of the basal shear surface. Both Casagranda and


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electrical piezometers are used to establish the ground water conditions. Attention is concentrated on the


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consistency, fabric and micro-structure of the mudslide material. Measurements of mudslide movements, both at the


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surface and with depth, are also presented. These confirm the strongly seasonal nature of mudslide movements in


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temperate climates and their association with undrained loading at the mudslide head. The tendency for mudslide


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movements to approximate to plug-flow where the mudslide channel is of reasonably uniform cross section is also


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Report on the public inquiry held at Freshwater, 1978, regarding an appeal against the refusal by the Isle of Wight


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County Council to grant planning permission for the extension of an existing holiday chalet village on land


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adjacent to Colwell Bay cliffs. This would require the erection of coast protection works.


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The paper gives a detailed description of the bay in terms of its geomorphology and geology. The extensive problem of


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coastal erosion is discussed and details are given of methods of coast protection employed in the area. These have


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proved to be disastrous - worsening the problem rather than improving it. The need to understand coastal processes


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before attempting to alter them is stressed.


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Deeply incised valleys are common landforms along the cliffed coastline of Dorset and Hampshire, a coastline which


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bears the brunt of the erosive effects of waves, wind and running water as is evident from this study of the Isle of


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Wight chines. A model was developed in order to examine stream profile and knickpoint recession based on the


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theories of Culling (1957) and Leopold et al (1964). Measurements of stream power, rate of cliff retreat and area


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of drainage basin were interpreted to determine the sequential development of chines as distinct from their


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inland valleys. It was concluded that chines are in a continual state of flux in contrast to their upper valleys


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and the relative role of cliff and catchment characteristics have important consequences for their durability.


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The paper draws attention to the power of seepage erosion to cause instability in natural slopes. A 2km length of


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actively retreating coastal cliffs, between 55m and 110m high, in gently inclined Lower Cretaceous (Upper Aptian and


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Lower Albian) strata near Chale, Isle of Wight is examined. These cliffs exhibit a marked bench between a lower, sea


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cliff and an upper, rear scarp. The role of seepage erosion in forming this bench and the processes by which the


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resulting debris is moved across the bench into the sea is explored. The discussion centres around the lithological,


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structural and hydrogeological controls operating, the history of coast erosion and cliff recession, and the nature


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and mechanics of the mass movements taking place.


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Newspaper report on the creation of the new third stack at Freshwater Bay. Also reports on recent meeting of Freshwater


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Parish Council where the removal of shingle from the bay was criticised because of possible repercussions in the form of


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Inquiry into Freshwater Bay in terms of the problem of coastal erosion and the possibility of the sea breaking


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through at Freshwater Gate and flooding an area of 100 acres including the waterworks, pumping station and railway


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station. The author blames the high rates of erosion in the Bay on the extraction of tons of shingle from within the


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Bay. Works to remedy the situation are estimated at œ10,000. A central authority for dealing with coastal erosion is


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Report on the recent subsidence at Ventnor and plans to intercept the water flowing towards the cliff face as a


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Series of photographs of the landslide at Gore Cliff.


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Report on the rock fall at Windy Corner - estimated at a weight of 100,000-200,000 tons of sandstone. A further large


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landslip is anticipated. Cracks are reported to be widening at a rate of 4 inches per day.


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Report on the huge landslide taking place at Blackgang. Estimated that an area of 50 acres of the broken and wooded


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tract known as The Common is moving seawards at a rapid rate. Gives a detailed chronology of events leading up to


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A discussion of the Blackgang landslide with regard to what measures could be taken in the future to reduce the rate of


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Photographs of the landslip at Windy Corner.


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Photographs of the Undercliff landslide.


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Report on how recent heavy rain has caused a number of cliff falls in the West Wight and led to further subsidence at


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Blackgang. The latter has caused the Blackgang Chine to Rocken End road to be closed because of likely danger to


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traffic. At Chale Terrace, summer residences have had to be demolished and other properties are threatened.


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Newspaper report on the subsidences occurring in the Ventnor area following exceptionally heavy autumn rainfall.


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The rate of movement at the western end of Ventnor esplanade has slowed from 1 inch in 24 hours to between 0.25 and 0.75


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inches over a week. Serious problems caused by the subsidence are still being experienced.


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Report on the reduction of further movement of subsidences at Ventnor and Niton Undercliff areas due to improvements in


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Report on the loss of property in the landslide at Blackgang - the Island's worst natural disaster for half a century.


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Report on the destruction of property due to another major landslide at Blackgang. Two houses and a holiday cottage


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were destroyed as an area of 30 acres slid towards the sea. The slide is described as the biggest on the Island for half


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The relevant chapter begins with a summary of the geology of the Undercliff followed by a description of the scar and the


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slipped masses. Two different types of landslide are identified according to their form: bench or terrace slides


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below the centre part of the scar and separated ones, with back slopes, at the east and west ends of the Undercliff


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area. Causes of the landsliding movements are given, recent falls are suggested to be related to undercutting by


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Gives an account of the landslips along the Undercliff at Ventnor, giving the geological structure and reasons for


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such an instability. The cavities which have appeared beneath the Whitwell Road are thought to be related to the


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early stage of land slipping. It is suggested that this will eventually render the road unsafe and that the road should


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therefore be diverted at least 50 feet from the line of the fissure.


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A study of the Undercliff of the Isle of Wight has revealed a strong correspondence between the geology, the


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geomorphology and the known landslide activity. In the town of Ventnor, records of non-catastrophic, but damaging,


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movements are traced and the results of current surface displacement monitoring reported. The present evidence


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suggests that the landslide movements are, in part, climatically controlled. From consideration of the combined


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geological, geomorphological, historical and monitoring evidence, a preliminary assessment is made of the relative


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slide hazard within this pre-existing landslide complex, which constitutes probably the greatest urban slope


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Report giving detailed descriptions and photographs of the July 1928 landslide.


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An account of the rock fall and landslide at Gore Cliff in June and July, 1928. Firstly, the geological and


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physiographic features of the Undercliff are described together with details of previous large landslides in 1779


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and 1881. A detailed chronology of events of the July 1928 landslide is given, including eyewitness accounts of the


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slide. Possible suggestions as to the cause of the slide are summarised. These include the existence of large cracks and


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fissures approximately parallel to the edge of Gore Cliff, the southward slope of all the strata and the probable


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exudation of the edge of the Gault Clay at its outcrop under the pressure of the overlying beds. Also, the concavity of


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the surface of the Malm Rock in the lower part of the cliff, due to the more rapid rate of erosion and the increase in


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the amount of water issuing from the spring at the base of the cliff would have been instrumental.


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Review of the geographical and geological setting of the Undercliff. Brief history of the landslides with discussion


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of the influence of lithology, geological structure and Quaternary events. Summary of findings of recent detailed


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investigations. Introduction of the concept of landslide hazard zonation and examples of its application in the


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Undercliff. Brief comments on landslide hazard warning system and possible future stabilisation measures.


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Detailed descriptions of the climate and geology of the Undercliff are given along with a brief reference to its


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Archaeological evidence suggests that for at least the past 1700 years, the south eastern part of the Isle of Wight has


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been subject to a major coastal landslip phenomena. A major part of this coastline comprises an extensive tract of


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slipped and foundered strata, known as the Undercliff. Since the 18th century it has been noted that there has been a


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striking concentration of known major landslides at the eastern and western end of this coastal feature. The last


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major failure occurred at the western end as recently as March 1978. The town of Ventnor is situated in the central


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and eastern region of the Undercliff and buildings here suffer frequent structural distress caused by seaward


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movements of the slipped masses. This paper describes and outlines the mechanism of the coastal landslides that have


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occurred in the eastern area of the Undercliff, between Ventnor and Luccombe Chine, also those in the Lower


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Greensand sea cliffs between Bonchurch and Shanklin. Some mention is also given to the instability of the inland


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northern slopes of the Southern Downs of the Island caused by the Gault Clay.


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Actively receding and slipping coastal slopes are usually avoided by builders and developers because the hazards are


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obvious, although misjudging or ignoring rates of recession frequently leads to damage and destruction of cliff top


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property. Areas in which mass movements are slow or intermittent may however be built over and the buildings and


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associated landscaping help to obscure the underlying problems. Two areas are described in the paper in which


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development has taken place on several types of coastal landslides. It is shown that large scale geomorphological


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mapping combined with observations of structural damage and historical research make it possible to identify the scale


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and mechanism of slope movements. A tentative scheme is proposed for classifying the frequency of significant


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Landslipping has exposed a fossiliferous slope deposit with some 3m thick on the brow of Gore Cliff near Blackgang.


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Close serial sampling and quantitative analysis of the contained non-marine Mollusca reveal clear


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biostratigraphical changes. The basal samples are richer both in number of species and individuals. Helicella itala


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is only frequent in the basal third of the deposit whereas the frequency of Cernuella virgata increases dramatically at


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about the level that H.itala declines. The onset of deposition is almost certainly anthropogenic and may have


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been triggered by ploughing. The replacement of H.itala by C.virgata possibly reflects a slightly later phase of more


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intensive tillage on the downland slopes. There is also a slight lithological change at this horizon. The molluscan


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fauna of the slope deposit is relatively impoverished with just over twenty species and contrasts sharply with the


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rather more diverse fauna that inhabits the site today. Significant differences can also be detected between the


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fossil and modern populations of C.virgata, shells of the latter tend to be rather larger and contain a greater


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frequency of bandless forms. The rare xerophile Truncatellina callicratis britannica is also known from the


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deposit. Small fragments of pottery and a trapeze shaped brooch collected in the 1930's from the basal levels suggest


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that the deposit accumulated sometime during the 2nd century AD. Radiocarbon assay of C.virgata shells from the


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250-260cm level gave the anomalously old date of 3940 + or - 65 B.P. (1990 BC). A control assay of modern C.virgata


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from Gore also gave an unacceptable date of 130 + or - 50 B.P. (1819 AD.) suggesting that this species incorporates


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An examination of coastal sections of landslip material forming The Undercliff of the Isle of Wight has revealed the


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presence of buried soils, in places, within the debris. Critical sections at Binnel Point and St. Catherine's Point


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have been logged and the contained vertebrate and molluscan faunas analysed. The Mollusca from both sites are very


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similar and indicate a shaded environment, contrasting sharply with the immediate local environments today. The


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vertebrates, present only at Binnel Point again suggest woodland. The presence of red squirrel (Sciurus vulgaris)


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and dormouse (Muscardinus avellanarius) is especially noteworthy, constituting their earliest and only secure


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British fossil records respectively. Some marine shells (Patella, Gibbula) and remains of larger vertebrates


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(including red deer) possibly represent hidden debris. Charcoal from the lower soil at Binnel Point yielded a


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radiocarbon of 4480 + or - 100 B.P. (B.M.1737) indicating that at least some of the middens at Binnel date from the


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Neolithic, much earlier than previously demonstrated. The sections at St. Catherine's Point provided no evidence of


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human occupation but yielded two further radiocarbon dates of 4490 + or - 40 B.P. (S.R.R. -1813) and 3960 + or - 50


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B.P.(S.R.R. -1947) from wood incorporated within the landslips. The significance of these dates in relation to


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the history of landslipping is discussed.


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A study of the late Post-glacial environmental history of the area by means of land snail analysis and an examination


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of the history of landslipping along The Undercliff.


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Detailed description of the Undercliff. The authors divide the Undercliff into four sections and summarise 'movements'


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that have occurred within each section. Particular attention is paid to the large landslide of 1928 at Windy Corner, Gore


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Cliff, which was preceded by a rockfall in the July of the same year.


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Description of the Undercliff and geological explanation for subsidences. Water percolates through the upper chalk and


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sand stone beds until it reaches the impervious blue marl. Here it accumulates until it finally flows out, carrying


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with it portions of the sandy sub-soil. In time this leads to undermining of the cliff and eventual subsidence.


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Report on the causes of subsidence and possible remedies for this particular section of road.


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General topography and geological features of the Ventnor landslips are described and an account is given of


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distortions experienced by roads and buildings. Details are given of the Folkestone Warren landslips and their effects


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on the railway. Toe weighting and sea defence work has already begun in the area and evidence suggests it is


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arresting the slow creep movements which were occurring previously. Finally, the report suggests more detailed


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monitoring and surveying of the unstable area at Ventnor and the diversion of the road.


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General aspect and description of the Undercliff is given. Meteorological aspects are described in detail.


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A distinction is made between slumping and spalling. Slumping involves a compound slide with rotation and


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translation: the latter along one of the bedding plane shear surfaces in the Barton Beds. Spalling is an isolated failure


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of the exposed cliff face due to weathering. Where slumping is the dominant mode of cliff top recession, the latter is


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an incremental process with the increments being equal to the breadth of the slumps. A statistical study has been made


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of the breadth, length and plan area of 42 slumps observed over a 2km stretch of the Christchurch Bay coastal cliffs


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The coastal geomorphology and environmental problems of Christchurch Bay, Hampshire, are investigated in order to


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exemplify the potential value of conflict as an element in geography teaching. Academic controversy, variations in


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environmental perception and the partiality of the decision-making process are assessed in terms of their


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Lymington Borough Council had become concerned at suggestions made by the Crown Commissioners to allow shingle


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dredging on the shingle banks between Hurst Castle and the Needles. The Council has maintained that these shingle banks


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under certain conditions provide replenishment of the beach material along Hurst Spit. The Crown Commissioners, on the


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other hand, contend that there is no evidence that this occurs and are proposing to allow experimental dredging for


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a period of one year. Southampton University has been asked to carry out an investigation as to whether or not there is


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any possibility that beach material deposited on the Shingles does in fact return to the Hurst Spit beaches. The


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Further evidence is adduced for correlating the Hengistbury Beds with the lower part of the Barton Beds (Upper Eocene,


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Hampshire Basin). The palaeontological evidence for the age of the Hengistbury Beds is reviewed and although much of


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this is inconclusive, several elements are considered to indicate definitely a Lower Barton and not a Bracklesham


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age. The palaeoecology of the Hengistbury Beds is discussed and their apparently anomalous location is ascribed to the


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action of a fold system en echelon with the Bouldnor and Thorness synclines and the Porchfield anticline to the east.


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This whole group of folds is tentatively interpreted as a drag phenomenon associated with left-lateral movement along


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the line of the Purbeck-Isle of Wight tectonic disturbance.


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The sediment distribution in Christchurch Bay has been examined by echo-sounding and oblique asdic surveys and by


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bottom sampling. The results are presented and discussed and it is suggested that the sediment originates from cliff


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erosion at Barton and is passed into deeper water via Hurst Spit. Deposition of gravel occurs on the Pot Bank and


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accumulation occurs on the Shingles Bank. The sand material is deposited in an arcuate zone south west of the Needles


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and active sand transport is moving material westwards along the Dolphin Sand. Some sand may recirculate onto the beaches


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of Poole and Christchurch Bay. In the deeper offshore zone, sediments derived from the Isle of Wight are important.


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There appear to be few wave recordings covering more than a relatively short period of time for coastal sites around the


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British Isles. This Thesis utilises the data from a Waverider Buoy located 800m offshore in 14m of water in


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Poole Bay between June 1974 and March 1979. A detailed study of the wave climate has been undertaken in this previously


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unrecorded region. At a coastal location the effects of wind direction are of major importance. Some new wind-wave


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diagrams and relationships have been established and have enabled the Weibull probability line to be corrected for


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extrapolating extreme events for an 'average' wind climate. A cost effective digital recorder has been adapted for


refAbstractLine:
recording wave data sampled at half second intervals. A total of 17 wave parameters were calculated for each 20


refAbstractLine:
minute recording period every 3 hours during a period of nearly one year. A comparison of similar parameters to those


refAbstractLine:
derived from simultaneously recorded in digital form have been related. Wave spectra have been derived and the


refAbstractLine:
build-up to a number of high sea state conditions has been examined. An assessment of the available wave power at the


refAbstractLine:
Waverider Buoy site has been made during the years 1975 to 1977 inclusive. A line of wave power devices has been


refAbstractLine:
suggested in an arc in Poole and Christchurch Bays and possible effects on the shoreline have been discussed. A


refAbstractLine:
computer wave refraction analysis has been undertaken in the Bays which has allowed wave orthogonals with any period and


refAbstractLine:
approach direction to be reproduced. A new method of verifying such wave refraction diagrams utilising recorded


refAbstractLine:
and observed wave data has been devised. The wave refraction program has been extended to enable longshore wave energy


refAbstractLine:
flux to be calculated for a wave orthogonal reaching the shoreline from deep water. Using the CERC formula an


refAbstractLine:
assessment has been made of the quantities and directions of longshore drift in 2km shoreline cells along the length of


refAbstractLine:
the Bays. New values of the coefficient, K, in the CERC formula have been established for groyned beaches composed


refAbstractLine:
of sand or shingle, and a mixture of these materials.


refAbstractLine:
Wave refraction has an important role in the evolution and day-to-day behaviour of shorelines and beaches. It is often


refAbstractLine:
the major factor in dictating the magnitude and direction of the littoral drift. The development of a wave refraction


refAbstractLine:
model for a particular site (Poole/Christchurch Bays) is described. The computational technique is very powerful and


refAbstractLine:
an area of 2500 sq. km of sea bed has been reproduced with the refraction behaviour superimposed for various wave


refAbstractLine:
directions and periods in deep water. In assessing the results, regard must be paid to the simplifying assumptions


refAbstractLine:
The chemical solution of microscopic sulphide grains from the recent sediments of Christchurch Harbour has revealed


refAbstractLine:
the presence of supposed organic structures bearing great similarities to those previously described from fossil


refAbstractLine:
sediments. The forms of the sulphide and the residual structures are described and the identification of the


refAbstractLine:
mineral as pyrite is recorded. Although the exact nature of the supposed pyrite-forming organism is still in doubt, it


refAbstractLine:
is suggested that it is saprophytic and invades its host soon after death or deposition. The formation of the


refAbstractLine:
sulphide rapidly follows. The distribution of the pyrite is shown to be related to the nature of the sediment, being


refAbstractLine:
found in those rich in clay and organic matter. The evidence of mode, time and environment of formation of the pyrite is


refAbstractLine:
of value in interpreting the geological processes leading to the syngenetic or early diagenetic formation of pyrite in


refAbstractLine:
Detailed sampling of the bottom water of Christchurch Harbour was undertaken in conjunction with a study of the


refAbstractLine:
living and dead foraminiferids. The Harbour is a shallow estuary with an unusual tidal regime of four high tides


refAbstractLine:
daily. During the winter the flow of fresh water from the rivers prevents sea water from entering much of the estuary.


refAbstractLine:
During the spring, summer and autumn, when drier conditions prevail on land, the sea enters the estuary as a salt wedge


refAbstractLine:
and there is pronounced salinity stratification. In addition to determinations of chlorinity, pH, dissolved oxygen and


refAbstractLine:
temperature, analyses of calcium were made during the spring, and of calcium and magnesium in the summer. It was


refAbstractLine:
found that calcium was preferentially removed from the bottom water, thus upsetting the calcium-chlorinity ratio.


refAbstractLine:
The cause of the calcium removal is thought to be biological activity. Magnesium was not affected by this process. A


refAbstractLine:
discussion of the results is presented and it is suggested that biological removal of calcium from the bottom water is


refAbstractLine:
particularly well developed in Christchurch Harbour owing to the extensive areas of shoal water favouring biological


refAbstractLine:
activity. estuaries of this type may not be very common.


refAbstractLine:
Hurst Castle Spit at the eastern end of Christchurch Bay is a well known example of a shingle spit. It is exposed to


refAbstractLine:
Atlantic waves, but the Shingles bank gives it considerable protection. Hurst beach has a long history of recession.


refAbstractLine:
However, the maximum rate of recession has increased from 1.5m/yr (1867-1968) to 3.5m/yr (1968-1982) due to more


refAbstractLine:
frequent overwashing. The past and present processes operating between Becton Bunny and the Point of the Deep


refAbstractLine:
were studied to determine the cause of this change. The cartographic evidence indicates that whilst both Barton and


refAbstractLine:
Milford/ Hurst beach have experienced rapid recession there has been accretion at Hordle Cliff where a wide shingle


refAbstractLine:
beach with fossil beach crests and a degraded cliff is present. This pattern of change demonstrates that a littoral


refAbstractLine:
drift sub-cell boundary occurs at Hordle Cliff. The boundary became an increasingly effective barrier to the littoral


refAbstractLine:
drift of shingle between the periods 1867-1968 and 1939-1968. Therefore the littoral drift at Milford and Hurst


refAbstractLine:
Beach is more localised than previously thought. Its magnitude varies considerably alongshore, reaching about


refAbstractLine:
15,000 cubic metres/year near Hurst Castle. The local erosion of Pleistocene sandy gravels including significant


refAbstractLine:
quantities beneath mean sea level at Milford and Hurst Beach contributed substantially to the stability of Hurst Castle


refAbstractLine:
Spit. The construction of sea defences at Milford between 1936 and 1968 has considerably reduced this erosion and the


refAbstractLine:
volume of Hurst Beach (approximately 200,000 cubic metres) is declining rapidly (approximately 7,000 cubic metres per


refAbstractLine:
year) due to a lack of littoral drift. Without renourishment, Hurst Beach will continue to decline in


refAbstractLine:
volume. Recession rates will probably average 3-6m/ year, leaving Hurst Castle as a prominent headland or, in the


refAbstractLine:
extreme ,a permanent tidal breach would leave it as an island.


refAbstractLine:
Institutional change is leading to more rigorous economic appraisal of coast protection works in Britain. An


refAbstractLine:
'extended' approach to benefit-cost analysis overcomes some of the disadvantages of conventional analyses. Some methods


refAbstractLine:
and data employed in Riverine flood protection appraisal are transferable to the coast protection appraisal case, but


refAbstractLine:
substantial modifications and developments of method are required to assess erosion impacts. Methodological


refAbstractLine:
developments are discussed through a case study of coast protection appraisal at Hengistbury Head. This case presents


refAbstractLine:
a wide range of economic appraisal problems - from urban flooding consequent upon erosion to loss of ecological and


refAbstractLine:
archaeological sites through erosion. Results of an 'extended' economic appraisal of the proposed protection


refAbstractLine:
works are presented together with a discussion of the limitations of the appraisal and further methodological


refAbstractLine:
This paper gives an account of the difficulties which are being experienced along this stretch of coast and the


refAbstractLine:
methods which are being investigated to solve the coast erosion problems. The discussion is categorised into the


refAbstractLine:
following locational units: Mudeford, Highcliffe, Barton-on-Sea, and Hordle Cliff.


refAbstractLine:
The paper describes briefly how the current nourishment scheme of Highcliffe was conceived, planned and carried out


refAbstractLine:
and seeks to place it in context nationally. The problems associated with the growth of this relatively new coast


refAbstractLine:
protection technique are discussed from the particular view of the local authority.


refAbstractLine:
The paper describes work undertaken by Christchurch Borough Council to encourage vegetation on a hostile coastal site,


refAbstractLine:
as an integral part of the engineering works necessary to stabilise eroding cliffs. The site is at Highcliffe-on-sea,


refAbstractLine:
Christchurch. The paper outlines the research, planning and establishment of what has become known as the "engineering


refAbstractLine:
sward" together with its subsequent husbandry. The importance of vegetation in the stabilisation of cliffs is


refAbstractLine:
Gives a general description of the coastline and rates of erosion in Christchurch Bay. Details of geology, hydrology,


refAbstractLine:
tidal rise and fall, surges and currents.


refAbstractLine:
The research detailed in this thesis attempts to illustrate to the coast protection planner the importance of acquiring


refAbstractLine:
a detailed knowledge of local coastal processes prior to the design and construction of coast protection schemes, and


refAbstractLine:
seeks to emphasise the desirability of abandoning the present segmented approach to coast protection planning in


refAbstractLine:
favour of a more closely integrated planning process. Aspects of both the past and present coastal dynamics of


refAbstractLine:
Poole and Christchurch Bays are examined and used to predict probable future short and long term coastal changes. The


refAbstractLine:
chronological development of the two bays is discussed and the significance of various submarine features assessed. The


refAbstractLine:
past and most probable future evolution of the plan geometry of the two bays is considered in conjunction with the


refAbstractLine:
general concepts of log-spiral (erenulate) shaped bay development and stability. Some fundamental problems


refAbstractLine:
experienced with the application of the model based concepts to natural bays are discussed. The coastal dynamics of Long


refAbstractLine:
Beach, Poole Bay are considered in detail both with respect to the coastal processes which operate in the immediate


refAbstractLine:
vicinity of the beach and with respect to the dynamics of the Christchurch and Poole Bay physiographic unit as a


refAbstractLine:
whole. The results of a shingle sand and two shingle tracer experiments are described. The major limitations of existing


refAbstractLine:
shingle tracer techniques are discussed and details are given of a new aluminium pebble tracer, designed


refAbstractLine:
specifically to overcome these limitations. The considerable scope believed to exist for the further and application of


refAbstractLine:
the technique is described. The value of tracer experiments in general as a means of determining volumetric rates of


refAbstractLine:
longshore sediment transport is assessed. Finally, an appraisal is given of the current coast protection planning


refAbstractLine:
process and of the future requirements for coast protection within Poole and Christchurch Bays.


refAbstractLine:
Describes the management and licensing system of the UK marine aggregate dredging industry. Locations of the


refAbstractLine:
principal dredging areas of England are provided.


refAbstractLine:
Seaside resort of Barton-on-Sea, just east of Bournemouth, is slowly losing its battle with the English Channel.


refAbstractLine:
Pronounced coastal erosion in Christchurch Bay has brought about the destruction of a house on the seafront in spite of


refAbstractLine:
costly coastal defence work. Three geomorphologists tell Barton's story and question coastal management policy.


refAbstractLine:
A brief description of miniature meander cycles on small alluvial fans below the cliffs at Barton.


refAbstractLine:
Paper to accompany a field excursion to Hengistbury Head. Includes discussion of the geology, geomorphology and


refAbstractLine:
erosional problems of the cliff face and beach; Mudeford Spit and Christchurch Harbour and the cliff-top.


refAbstractLine:
A short paper describing the local topography and geology of Barton-on-Sea prior to an explanation of the cliff erosion


refAbstractLine:
and the measures appropriate to control this recession.


refAbstractLine:
Bournemouth is built on and surrounded by a series of well-preserved terraces, little dissected by minor


refAbstractLine:
tributaries. The author has been mapping much of this area for some years and it has become clear that over a large


refAbstractLine:
district, every part of the ground, including the valleys of the rivulets, falls into a scheme of 'treads and rises' or


refAbstractLine:
'flats and bluffs' so that the geomorphological position of every point can be stated. It is therefore possible to write


refAbstractLine:
of the succession of morphological terraces in the district. No attempt is made to date these terraces or


refAbstractLine:
Tests are described in which the effect of artificial seaweed on bed sediment movements due to waves was studied


refAbstractLine:
in a model. Water velocities near the bed and coal particle velocities on the bed, within the seaweed array, were


refAbstractLine:
measured over a range of wave conditions and densities of packing of the seaweed. The water velocity measurements were


refAbstractLine:
erratic, probably due to additional turbulence caused by the seaweed. Coal particle movements on the bed were slowed down


refAbstractLine:
Three chapters giving detailed geological and geomorphological descriptions of the plateau gravels, valley


refAbstractLine:
gravels and more recent deposits in the Bournemouth region.


refAbstractLine:
Following successful experiments with radioactive tracers in the Thames estuary, it was decided to carry out a pilot


refAbstractLine:
experiment to investigate the practicability of using similar tracers to detect and measure the movement of


refAbstractLine:
offshore beach material. A position off Sandbanks, Poole was selected. Briefly, the results indicated that the tidal


refAbstractLine:
currents in the area were too weak to induce movement of beach material, and that such movements only occurred to a


refAbstractLine:
significant degree under wave action produced by wind. In general, considering the experiment primarily as a test of a


refAbstractLine:
new technique, the results were highly encouraging. They showed that a radioactive tracer could be used to follow the


refAbstractLine:
movement of sand under coastal conditions, and that readings up to twenty times in excess of the background activity


refAbstractLine:
could be obtained in certain circumstances for a period of up to at least four months. The experimental methods and


refAbstractLine:
apparatus proved to be satisfactory on the whole, but in future work of this kind it will generally be preferable to


refAbstractLine:
release the tracer about 1 ft above the bed, or actually on the bed.


refAbstractLine:
The shape of Poole harbour is due largely to a marine submergence that probably reached its maximum about 6,000


refAbstractLine:
years ago. Its branched configuration is typical of a valley system partly drowned by recent marine submergence with the


refAbstractLine:
higher parts persisting as promontories and islands. Sand spits at the harbour entrance are thought to be derived


refAbstractLine:
partly from the erosion of Tertiary cliffs to the north, and partly from the floor of Studland Bay to the south of the


refAbstractLine:
harbour entrance where Bagshot Beds are believed to outcrop. Longshore drift and counter-drift are checked by tidal


refAbstractLine:
currents of up to 5 knots (2.6m/sec) which maintain the harbour entrance. Shoreline forms and marsh development in


refAbstractLine:
Poole Harbour depend largely on exposure to wave action at high tide, cliffs occurring (with beaches associated


refAbstractLine:
locally) opposite regions of longest fetch, while marshlands are best developed on more sheltered sections of the shore.


refAbstractLine:
Before the marshlands developed, much of the harbour shore was cliffed, the steep bluff behind the marshlands being a


refAbstractLine:
degraded cliff with basal relics of sand and gravel beaches partly concealed by marsh soil and vegetation. Topography in


refAbstractLine:
the intertidal zone and below depends especially on currents developed in creeks and channels during the ebb. The pattern


refAbstractLine:
of tidal channels has remained much as it was since it was first surveyed 178 years ago, although minor changes have


refAbstractLine:
been recorded. The sources of sediment delivered to the harbour are discussed and evidence given that significant


refAbstractLine:
amounts are still being delivered to the upper reaches of the harbour by the rivers when in spate. The broad


refAbstractLine:
lagoon-like form of the harbour acts as a 'settling tank' for sediment. The part played by Spartina as a physiographic


refAbstractLine:
agent is discussed and estimates of the depth of silt accumulated by this plant vary from 70 to 100cm in different


refAbstractLine:
parts of the harbour. The development of Spartina marsh has probably passed its peak in the area and relatively little


refAbstractLine:
active spread is found. Erosion and 'die-back' release silt which may be redeposited on areas where Spartina marsh is


refAbstractLine:
General features of the harbour, inc. tidal regime. Report concentrates on the main changes in the channels around


refAbstractLine:
Middle Ground, 1829-1934, and an account of tidal stream velocities and directions at various locations within the


refAbstractLine:
harbour. Observations showing relationships between "suspended matter" and salinity are reported for 5


refAbstractLine:
locations, with some correlation between values obtained and spatial variations in mudflat accretion. Much of the


refAbstractLine:
suspended sediment is in the clay/silt fraction, and may be mobilised by wave disturbance of Spartina mudflats. Bottom


refAbstractLine:
deposits ( including those at and just outside harbour entrance ) are similar to material produced by adjacent


refAbstractLine:
cliff erosion. Spartina "die back" could be due to materials produced by adjacent cliff erosion. Spartina "die


refAbstractLine:
back" could be due to denudation of silt and clay and re-exposure of sandy substrate.


refAbstractLine:
In 1938, University College, Southampton began to undertake research on changes in the channels and banks in Poole


refAbstractLine:
Harbour, the results of which were likely to be of practical and  general application in harbour conservation. It was


refAbstractLine:
realised that there was a need for periodical surveys of this kind in order to understand the development and


refAbstractLine:
evolution of the harbour and this survey contributes to an understanding of the changes which have taken place in


refAbstractLine:
twelve years. The survey was concerned with the nature of the bottom and of the drying banks in that part of the


refAbstractLine:
harbour in which the greatest change was apparent.


refAbstractLine:
Population changes resulting in a pattern of invasion by Spartina townsendii in Poole Harbour have been described


refAbstractLine:
from a study of historical and photographic records. The origin and relationships of Spartina species are discussed.


refAbstractLine:
The basic pattern of Spartina marsh distribution was determined by the distribution of mudflats above O.D.


refAbstractLine:
(Newlyn) prior to the advent of Spartina. Two distinctive patterns of spread have been recognised. The first results


refAbstractLine:
from initial extensive seedling establishment and subsequent rapid expansion of tussocks by vegetative growth in optimum


refAbstractLine:
conditions on level mud and is characteristic of the early phase of development. The second results from much more


refAbstractLine:
limited seedling establishment on sloping mud surfaces adjoining accreting swards. It is estimated that the area


refAbstractLine:
occupied by Spartina reached a maximum of 2124 acres (867 hectares) about 30 years after its initial establishment at


refAbstractLine:
the end of the nineteenth century. During the last 40 years the area of Spartina marsh has been reduced, by various


refAbstractLine:
factors, by about 20% of the maximum and there is evidence that the decline is still continuing. The importance of


refAbstractLine:
Poole Harbour as the main centre for the distribution of Spartina planting material is exemplified by the fact that


refAbstractLine:
over 175,000 plant fragments and many samples of seed have been dispatched from this area to at least 130 sites around


refAbstractLine:
Holton Mere or Lake appears to have been a transitory shallow lagoon in the upper estuary of Poole Harbour which


refAbstractLine:
existed for at least 150 years and finally disappeared between 1900 and 1924. Mudbanks and channels associated with


refAbstractLine:
the Mere appear to have been colonised by species indicative of a general transition from a fresh water to a marine


refAbstractLine:
influence. The final disappearance of the Mere may have been hastened by the spread of Spartina X, which altered the


refAbstractLine:
pattern of silting within the harbour. It is estimated that only one-twentieth of the sediment trapped beneath the


refAbstractLine:
Spartina marshes of the upper estuary has recently entered the harbour.


refAbstractLine:
Tributyltin (TBT) concentrations in waters of Poole Harbour ranged between 2-139 ng per litre (as Sn) and increased to


refAbstractLine:
234-646 ng per litre within marinas. Seasonal trends in contamination coincided with boat usage patterns and peaked


refAbstractLine:
during summer months. A combination of poor tidal flushing and removal of TBT to particulates restricts high levels of


refAbstractLine:
contamination to areas closest to marinas and moorings; TBT concentrations in benthic sediments decreased from 0.52 ug


refAbstractLine:
per g near such sites to 0.02 ug per g at the harbour mouth. Organotin accumulations in several benthic invertebrates


refAbstractLine:
including polychaetes (Nereis diversicolor), snails (Littorina littorea) and clams (Scrobicularia plana, Mya


refAbstractLine:
arenaria) reflect the distribution of contamination in the environment, though concentration factors (relative to


refAbstractLine:
water) vary considerably between species and were highest in sediment dwelling clams, notably Mya (130000). Compared to


refAbstractLine:
organotins, biological availability of inorganic tin is low. Levels of TBT in parts of Poole Harbour exceed Environmental


refAbstractLine:
Quality Targets designed to protect marine life and may be responsible for poor recruitment, particularly in bivalves,


refAbstractLine:
This survey started in October, 1965, is an attempt to assess the way in which shoreline changes have taken place


refAbstractLine:
in Poole Harbour, and in particular Holes Bay. The survey has concentrated on the following: (1) Mapping the early


refAbstractLine:
form of Poole Harbour following the recent marine transgression. (2) Assessment of the changes which have


refAbstractLine:
taken place in recent times. (3) Detailed analysis of the changes in Holes Bay with particular reference to human


refAbstractLine:
action in reclamation of the mudlands. (3) Some consideration of the supply of sediment to the harbour by


refAbstractLine:
A description of the coastal features of Poole Harbour and the Isle of Purbeck designed as notes for an excursion.


refAbstractLine:
Many studies of cliff retreat and beach development have been made which assess the relationships between the


refAbstractLine:
intensity of cliff retreat and the nature of beaches (King, 1971). Rarely, however, is it possible to identify the


refAbstractLine:
source of the material forming the beach sufficiently accurately to relate beach changes to cliff changes


refAbstractLine:
directly. This has been possible at Shipstal Point which lies in the eastern part of the parish of Arne in Dorset on


refAbstractLine:
the southern side of Poole Harbour. Shingle and sand beaches extend to north and south from a common source of beach


refAbstractLine:
material, the eroding cliffs at the Point itself. Using documentary evidence in the form of early maps and charts,


refAbstractLine:
aerial photography and tachometric surveys, it has been possible to describe the evolution of these beaches and to


refAbstractLine:
assess the importance of the cliffs as a source of beach material.


refAbstractLine:
Spartina was found to be advancing slowly at all points measured along the seaward edge of the marsh, using a


refAbstractLine:
combination of air and ground survey methods. The rate of marsh formation must have been more rapid in the past to


refAbstractLine:
produce the present width in the 35 years since Spartina was first introduced. Succession from Spartina to Scirphus/


refAbstractLine:
Phragmites marsh began when the marsh was about 22 years old. Comparative measurements of the rates of establishment


refAbstractLine:
of these species and Typha latifolia are given. Within the last 12 years, succession has occurred so rapidly that about


refAbstractLine:
50% of the Spartina has been replaced by invading species along the 2 mile (1.6km) landward edge of the marsh. At


refAbstractLine:
least three mechanisms are involved in the succession. Marsh formation and succession occur at about the same rate at the


refAbstractLine:
present time, but the build-up of levels suitable for the growth of invading species occurs more rapidly than they can


refAbstractLine:
be utilised. The nutrient status of newly accreted mud is high and the rate of accretion is exceptionally high; the


refAbstractLine:
rate of supply of essential nutrients is therefore unlikely to exert any limitation on plant growth.


refAbstractLine:
Simultaneous observations at different points on the main estuarine gradient in Poole Harbour have shown that the


refAbstractLine:
shape of the tidal curve for a normal spring tide is generally similar to that obtained from the tide gauge at


refAbstractLine:
Poole Bridge. The curve for the equinoctial tide shows a progressive steepening in passing up the estuary, which


refAbstractLine:
results in a much reduced period of submergence for a particular marsh level in the upper reaches of the estuary


refAbstractLine:
compared with the submergence duration operating at the same level in middle and lower reaches of the estuary.


refAbstractLine:
Simultaneous measurements of chlorinity in Spartina marsh soil at three different sites demonstrated a gradient which


refAbstractLine:
decreased from the harbour mouth to its upper reaches. Regular measurements of the soil chlorinity in a Spartina


refAbstractLine:
marsh for a year showed a distinctive seasonal pattern in which the chlorinity value was closely correlated with


refAbstractLine:
rainfall, but not with periods of tidal submergence. Soil moisture records taken at the same time showed no


refAbstractLine:
distinctive seasonal pattern and were clearly dependent on a permanently high and relatively constant water table level.


refAbstractLine:
Studies of the soil profile indicated that the least variable and most representative level for sampling was


refAbstractLine:
10-12cm below the surface and a series of soil chlorinity measurements were made beneath selected species at this


refAbstractLine:
depth. The distribution of common marsh species is discussed in relation to the above factors. It was concluded that


refAbstractLine:
Spartina x townsendii agg. is limited in Poole Harbour to levels where a maximum depth of submergence of about 1m


refAbstractLine:
occurs and where tidal submergence of not more than 6h duration occurs during the active growth period but Spartina


refAbstractLine:
can also withstand 9h submergence occasionally when plants are dormant. The position of the seaward limit of Spartina


refAbstractLine:
in relation to the tide distribution makes this limit peculiarly susceptible to small but consistent changes in


refAbstractLine:
sea level, which result in comparatively large differences in duration of submergence. Phragmites seedlings germinated


refAbstractLine:
on moist marshland at field chlorinity values of 1%, but were not able to establish. Mature plants appear to be


refAbstractLine:
limited to areas where the chlorinity of the soil solution at 10cm does not exceed 1.2%.


refAbstractLine:
Captain Cyril Diver described the form of the heath and dunes comprising South Haven Peninsular as they were in


refAbstractLine:
1933, together with the evidence, mostly cartographic, for their formation during the previous centuries. This paper


refAbstractLine:
indicates the changes which have occurred in more recent years, 1933-1970. It appears that physiographical changes


refAbstractLine:
over this latter period can be thought of as continuing the processes which had been evident from the late 1800's up to


refAbstractLine:
the 1930's. In addition, these changes seem to be occurring at a similar rate.


refAbstractLine:
Using maps and charts from 1575 to 1924, an account is given of the changing physiography of South Haven Peninsular.


refAbstractLine:
A short report giving the background to the South Haven Peninsular survey carried out by Good and Diver from 1932


refAbstractLine:
This paper is mainly concerned with the effects of the influx of people, mainly holiday-makers, on the wild life


refAbstractLine:
and other natural features of the South Haven Peninsular. A brief ecological summary of the area is given.


refAbstractLine:
This paper examines the biological changes which have occurred on South Haven Peninsular. Attention is therefore


refAbstractLine:
paid to the changing vegetation, mammal and wildfowl populations.


refAbstractLine:
The paper provides an explanation for the changes which have led to the formation of Lulworth Cove. This includes an


refAbstractLine:
account of the geology of the area and a description of the coastal processes operating.


refAbstractLine:
Report of a field meeting along the Dorset coast, held to examine the geology at various locations near Weymouth.


refAbstractLine:
Some new faunal records for the Early Holocene Loam of Bowleaze Cove, described by the authors in 1955, are listed,


refAbstractLine:
together with new molluscan records from the Holocene tufa of Blashenwell, Dorset, with which the Bowleaze deposit has


refAbstractLine:
been compared and contrasted. Conclusions are drawn, confirming those of the former paper, and the similarity


refAbstractLine:
between the Bowleaze fauna and that of the early Post-Glacial deposits at Nazeing, Essex, is noted.


refAbstractLine:
Report of the coastal erosion experienced at Weymouth and the success of attempts at shoreline protection.


refAbstractLine:
In common with pressures on coastal areas in general, coastal resource use pressures on Weymouth Bay have


refAbstractLine:
escalated in recent decades. Concurrent with such resource pressures, serious practical problems have arisen; in


refAbstractLine:
response to which there has been only limited research effort, and hence there is comparatively little information


refAbstractLine:
on the regime conditions of the Bay. Against this background, Bedford College, in 1971, put forward two


refAbstractLine:
related research proposals: (1) to investigate the nature of the littoral drift of shingle around the western margin of


refAbstractLine:
Weymouth Bay and (2) to investigate the erosion of the submarine clay substrate fronting Furzey Cliff. This initial


refAbstractLine:
research programme soon revealed the necessity to widen the original terms of reference to embrace not only the


refAbstractLine:
geomorphological/ hydraulic aspects of coastal regime conditions but also ecological factors. It was argued that a


refAbstractLine:
meaningful physical study of regime conditions in Weymouth Bay should ideally be viewed against the complex tapestry of


refAbstractLine:
socio-economic, legal, political and aesthetic issues that enter into most problems of coastal resource use. Hence as


refAbstractLine:
the title of this report suggests, this study goes a small distance beyond the confines of a strictly geomorphological


refAbstractLine:
appraisal of conditions in the inner part of Weymouth Bay. The physical problems of Weymouth Bay should ideally be


refAbstractLine:
viewed in cost-benefit terms. Physical problems should not be viewed in isolation; for the report sees them as integral


refAbstractLine:
and related components of what might, for convenience, be regarded as a total, semi-natural coastal system: that of


refAbstractLine:
Weymouth Bay as a whole. It is against the background of this total, semi-natural system, that ad-hoc physical


refAbstractLine:
problems, resource development proposals and management problems in Weymouth Bay are discussed.


refAbstractLine:
Endangered coastlines of geomorphological importance pose problems for the coastal planner. The geomorphologist is


refAbstractLine:
likely to argue that erosion should be left to nature and attempts to use engineering approaches have been rarely


refAbstractLine:
successful at rapidly eroding sites, although beach nourishment has attractions in some places. These ideas are


refAbstractLine:
illustrated by reference to the northern coast of the Isle of Man, Chesil Bank and Weymouth Bay.


refAbstractLine:
The object of this paper is to inquire how far marine mollusca can be used in correlating the Quaternary marine


refAbstractLine:
deposits in Britain. Various raised beach locations are used, including Portland Bill.


refAbstractLine:
A detailed summary of the mollsca from the Portland raised beach shows: (1) That on the whole the fauna is a slightly


refAbstractLine:
colder one than that of the existing sea at the same locality. (2) That there is at the same time a lack of


refAbstractLine:
arctic or sub-arctic forms, so that this difference of temperature was not very great, perhaps not more than 3 or 4


refAbstractLine:
degrees Fahr. (3) That with the possible exception of one Rissoa, there are no extinct species or varieties present in


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the raised beach fauna. (4) That the facies is distinctly a rocky rather than a sandy one. Finally, the species and


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varieties appear to have been restricted by the same ecological conditions as they are today.


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The deposits have been known for 145 years as providing evidence of high Pleistocene sea-levels. Most accounts have


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relied on 19th century descriptions of the deposits and their fauna. Such accounts emphasise the supposed similar


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ages of the deposits on both west and east sides of the peninsular, despite their differences in facies and faunal


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content. This paper reports the results of new work based upon mapping and levelling the deposits and amino acid


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analysis of the fauna. The results suggest the existence of two stratigraphically and geochronologically separate marine


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deposits at Portland. It is proposed that there is a correlation with oxygen isotope stage 5e (c. 125,000 BP) for


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the beach on the east side of Portland Bill and a correlation with oxygen isotope stage 7 (c. 210,000 BP) for


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the beach on the west side of Portland Bill.


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The stratigraphy and fauna of terrestrial deposits at Portland Bill is described. The fauna is restricted to the


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head and is indicative of a cold climate rather than the temperate conditions suggested by earlier authors. An age in


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the Devensian Glacial Stage is tentatively suggested.


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Following description of the fossil evidence it is concluded that the following sequence from oldest to youngest occurs


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at Portland Bill: West Beach = Oceanic Stage 7; overlying loam = Oceanic Stage 6; East Beach = Ipswichian Oceanic


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Stage 5e; weathering of loam possible Ipswichian; Head Devensian cryoturbation.


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The antiquity of the raised beach deposits at Portland Bill, and also of many other similar deposits around the shores of


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the English Channel, is extremely uncertain. The presence of secondary calcite cement within parts of the Portland


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deposits offered an opportunity of obtaining direct evidence of the minimum age of the beach by uranium-series dating.


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The cement transpired to be of Holocene age, and this note records the details of this rather disappointing result.


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The paper begins with a consideration of the most important theories concerning the origin of the beach. Older theories


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suggested that the material of the beach had been introduced into the area by floating ice whilst Coode (1853) suggested


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the beach was the product of wave action and Prestwich (1875) proposed that the beach was formed by the effect of a


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west-flowing current in West Bay upon an accumulation of shingle south and west of Portland Bill. Strahan's theory,


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(1907), put forward the idea that the material was brought into the area by a great river which flowed across the


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present West Bay, with its estuary south-west of the present Portland Bill. The author suggests that this is probably the


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most widely accepted theory. A description of an experiment on the longshore drift on the beach carried out in 1957 is


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given. The results of the direction and speed of movement of marked pebbles are tabulated.


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For hundreds of years, ships have been broken up on the Chesil, their ballast or cargoes of stone becoming


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incorporated in the beach, where the processes of attrition and grading are extremely quick. The author suggests this is


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the reason for the high content of erratic rocks on the Chesil Beach.


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Describes the effects of the storm of November, 1954 on Chesil Beach and includes observations up to four months


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Describes the evolution of the Chesil Bank and draws the following conclusions regarding the history of the Chesil


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pebbles: (1) That pebbles have been derived independently from the Permian, Trias, Cretaceous and Tertiary deposits of


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Devon and Dorset, together with a few Cornish pebbles, the more distant of these probably having been brought by


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sea-ice at  early Quaternary date. (2) That these pebbles are first seen assembled in one deposit in the Portland


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Raised Beach. (3) That the raised beach pebbles became mixed with those of the terraces of the extinct Fleet River, when


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the Fleet valley was captured by marine erosion, thus forming the Chesil Bank, an event which took place at a late


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Quaternary date, after the formation of the Head. (4) That the pebbles of the Chesil Bank are now sorted by the action


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of sea waves, but that the harder pebbles do not suffer much from attrition, although the relatively softer limestone


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pebbles may become so reduced. (5) That the shape of the existing Fleet is determined partly by the curve of the


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Chesil Bank as arranged by the direction of the waves crossing Lyme Bay and partly by the shape of what remains


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of the left bank of the valley of the Fleet River at the last stage of its development before being captured by the


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sea. That this stage was later than the formation of the Head, because that deposit reaches sea level along the


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shores of the existing Fleet and it is quite possible that the ancient sand dunes underlying part of the Chesil Bank


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were one of the factors which kept the sea from invading the Fleet valley at its south-eastern end. (6) That this part of


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the Dorset coast is typical both of submergence and emergence. (7) That the Chesil Bank is a mature marine


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deposit i.e. not being added to at any appreciable rate at the present time.


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This paper discusses the origin of The Fleet, an estuarine lagoon system. It describes its relationship with Chesil


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Beach, the morphology of the lagoon system, the configuration of the shoreline, sedimentation in the Fleet


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and the hypotheses regarding the origin of The Fleet.


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Discussion of the various theories concerning the origin of Chesil Beach.


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The paper discusses aspects of the grading of a pebble beach, Chesil Beach, Dorset, England. Because of the


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prevailing conditions, grading is especially well developed along this beach. The principles included apply elsewhere.


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The initial samples were taken in July 1965, from the surface along 23 lines of section extending over a distance


refAbstractLine:
of 26km. The number of sites per section varied between 3 and 11 and included the main Beach Crest and High and Low


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Water Mark. The same section lines were used for monthly sampling at High and Low Water Mark on alternate series of


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Spring Tides until July, 1966. Samples were also obtained from a number of boreholes through either the beach ridge or


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the back slope of the beach, and from the Raised Beach nearby. Generally 500 pebbles were analysed. The initial


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samples were measured for long diameter, short diameter, and weight, but both monthly and borehole samples were examined


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for long diameter alone. The data were computed for mean, standard deviation and standard error. The results show that


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Low Water samples are frequently bimodal; that certain landward samples are of a different population to the


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adjacent Beach Crest and seaward face, and that a higher proportion of coarser material is found near, but not


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necessarily on, the present Beach Crest. The profile along the beach suggests a marked inflection of pebble size both


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along the  Beach Crest and at High Water towards the eastern end, and greater variability toward the west.


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Monthly variations at High Water Mark suggest rapid lateral transport from time to time. The tendency towards bimodal


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distributions at Low Water , and the presence of different size ranges there compared with the rest of the adjacent


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beach, reflects both current beach processes and mode of origin. Boreholes sited on the Beach Crest indicate fine


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material at and below present-day Low Water Mark. There is a suggestion of grading below the present-day beach level. The


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Raised beach samples fall within the range of the present-day beach. The significance of these results is


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This paper discusses experiments undertaken in 1969 and 1970 using natural beach material introduced to Chesil Beach from


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other areas. The 1969 trials used approximately 17,000 quartz granulites; 1970 trials used two batches of


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approximately 6,000 quartzite-jasper conglomerates and one batch of over 5,000 basalts. In 1969, one site was used; in


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1970 two were chosen to provide comparisons. Trial searches showed variability in recovery rates reflecting both the


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nature of the introduced material and the effect of the size of the background pebbles. The experiments were designed to


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determine the rates of movement of particles; recovery patterns; maximum recovery rates; shape sorting and finally,


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Chesil Beach, the most impressive shingle structure along the British coast, extends westwards from Portland for


refAbstractLine:
twenty kilometres. This huge shingle bank is described in the final article in the Landform Landmarks series prepared


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in association with the British Geomorphological Research Group.


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This report gives a brief outline of the evidence available in relation to sea defences, coast protection and gravel


refAbstractLine:
extraction in the area of coast extending NW from the Isle of Portland to approximately West Bay. It goes on to


refAbstractLine:
indicate lines of research which need to be undertaken to clarify the existing situation and resolve outstanding


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problems. Section 2 summarises the existing published data about which there is either undisputed agreement or adequate


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documentation. The following section indicates other sources of information relevant to the seabed; computed and observed


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wave data; beach profiles; gravel extraction; and tracer experiments. In addition certain other topics are considered


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mainly in respect to the December 1978 and February 1979 flooding events at Chiswell and to seepage through the


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beach. Section 4 assesses the validity of existing data. It is noted that there has been no recent bathymetric survey of


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the whole offshore area. Much of the other data, whether boreholes, beach sections or tracer studies, have


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shortcomings of one sort or another while the figures for gravel-winning provided for the 1966 Public Inquiry must be


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qualified. Parts of sections 5 and 6 suggest subjects where additional research is necessary, for example to provide


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sufficient information for a future Public Inquiry on gravel extraction. These include: an offshore sampling programme


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with related geophysical survey off West Bay; tracer experiments; calculations of chert reaching the foreshore in


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the Charmouth area; additional boreholes through the beach to confirm the volume of pebbles and cobbles present;


refAbstractLine:
well-documented beach sections; the rates of loss of material through attrition, and the nature and magnitude of


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percolation throughout the beach. There is a need for long-term acquisition of wave data. Section 7 provides a


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resume of the previous part of the report and indicates other lines of research and data collection which could be


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of value. Long-term trends are frequently obscured by substantial fluctuations in the short-term. There is a need


refAbstractLine:
for greater emphasis on qualitative results. The appendices include a list of vertical air photographs; an


refAbstractLine:
outline of proposed research by DCC/ Nature Conservancy Council; proposed investigations by Dobbie and Partners and


refAbstractLine:
This report gives an outline of the nature of the scientific interest of Chesil Beach and of its national and


refAbstractLine:
international importance in that context. While the sea defence proposals by Dobbie and Partners are unlikely to


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affect the biology and bedrock geology they are, inevitably going to have implications on the geomorphological and


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sedimentological value of the beach over the area where the beach is highest and access is at its easiest. The principal


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geomorphological and sedimentological importance of Chesil Beach stems from (a) the scale and uniqueness of the


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formation (b) The longshore size grading of beach material, together with the geological composition of that material


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(c) the accuracy and long-period documentation relating to the site. It is considered that there are unlikely to be any


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substantial environmental objections to the modification of the existing sea wall; the improved drainage, whether


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through culverts or the enlargement of the recently constructed interceptor ditch; nor to the raising of the


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Weymouth-Portland road. However, beach nourishment, whether on the seaward or landward slope of the crest line, and the


refAbstractLine:
extensive use of gabions or mattresses is likely to attract adverse reaction both scientifically and aesthetically.


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Particular care would have to be taken in respect of the source and nature of rock fill used in gabions and in


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preventing such fill being dispersed over the wider beach area. The scientific importance would be best secured by the


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minimum alterations to the beach commensurate with adequate security from flooding at Chiswell and reliability of access


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to and from the Isle of Portland. Unnecessary disturbance should be avoided.


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This paper summarises the geological, geomorphological and historical data concerning Chesil Beach and the Fleet lagoon


refAbstractLine:
and then gives details on three aspects on beach processes where more information has become available since the


refAbstractLine:
publication of Carr and Blackley (1974): longshore transport, changes in the height of the beach crest and


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short-term versus longer term changes in beach volume.


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Describes the changes in height and stability of Chesil Beach, sea defence and coastal protection proposals, the


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extraction of beach material and other forms of economic pressure at Chesil.


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A brief description of Chesil Beach in terms of its geomorphological history, morphology and sedimentology.


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This paper describes the results of a survey to investigate the geological composition of the pebbles on Chesil Beach.


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Samples were collected at 23 sections along the beach and at each section pebbles were sampled at the beach crest and at


refAbstractLine:
high and low water mark. In addition, a number of boreholes were sunk through the beach crest and on the back-slope of


refAbstractLine:
Recent site investigations and research on Chesil Beach have provided new data which help to shed light on the origin of


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both the Beach and the lagoonal Fleet which is situated to landward. A channel of the order of -26m is indicated


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between the Isle of Portland and the mainland. Under much of the Fleet there is a marked break of slope at about -15m


refAbstractLine:
O.D. This is associated with pebbles, cobbles and boulders and takes the form of a storm beach with plantation surface


refAbstractLine:
to seaward. Overlying this surface are various deposits dating from Pollen Zone 6 onward. In the light of this data


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the surface must, as in the case of those at Orford, Suffolk, be entirely pre-Flandrian. A tentative chronology


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This paper gives a comprehensive examination of the various papers which have been previously published about Chesil


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Beach and the associated areas of the Fleet and the Portland Raised Beach. In doing so, light is also shed on the


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development of various concepts concerning coastal processes.


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This paper compares mean, standard deviations and standard errors for length, breadth, thickness and weight of samples


refAbstractLine:
of 500 quartzite and flint/chert pebbles from six beach crest sites on the shingle beach at Chesil beach, Dorset.


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Because of the conditions prevailing, grading alongshore is especially well developed but the principles apply


refAbstractLine:
elsewhere. The data are used in examining various shape ratios and indexes including Luttig's (1956) sigma and pi.


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the Wentworth (1922) - Cailleux (1945) flatness index, Krumbein's (1941) sphericity index and the maximum


refAbstractLine:
projection index of Sneed and Folk (1958). It is shown that the only comparable dimension or index between the quartzite


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and flint/chert population is thickness. Since the specific gravity of both lithological types is the same it would


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appear that over the range of pebble sizes and shapes present on this beach, thickness is the critical dimension


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in determining the overall sorting of pebbles by wave action.


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Before any comprehensive theory on the formation of Chesil Beach can be developed, measurements of pebble masses and


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pebble shapes are required. Such measurements were made by the author in August 1965. The samples were removed from


refAbstractLine:
points along the shoreline about two yards down the beach from the brow of the lowest seaward edge. This paper


refAbstractLine:
summarises the results of this survey and finds that (1)the mean mass decreases monotonically as samples are taken from


refAbstractLine:
further west; (2)the mean pebble mass rises very steeply at the eastern end of the beach and (3)the mean pebble mass


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The object of this paper is to explain why the size of the shingle on Chesil Beach increases continuously from Bridport


refAbstractLine:
to Chesilton. The author concludes that the "character, sources and direction of supply of the shingle during remote


refAbstractLine:
ages is not of primary importance in this respect. What has long been on the beach the sea has had time to sort


refAbstractLine:
according to its proper mode of action, and independently of the original distribution of sizes".


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On the 13th February, 1979 unusually high wave activity caused considerable damage to Chesil Beach, particularly at


refAbstractLine:
Chiswell on the Isle of Portland. This paper describes the oceanographic and meteorological factors responsible for


refAbstractLine:
this, giving details of wave magnitudes and frequencies. It concludes with a discussion of the rarity of the event.


refAbstractLine:
Chesil Beach has a typical transverse profile of two main shingle ridges, a 'storm ridge' and a 'foreshore ridge'.


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These two ridges change shape with the formation of a step profile in constructive wave conditions, and the steepening


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of slopes in destructive wave conditions. During storms the beach is never actually 'breached', rather overtopping and


refAbstractLine:
seepage via cans occurs. In exceptional storms the foreshore ridge may be removed and the height of the storm ridge may


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be lowered in places, allowing further overtopping to occur. Evidence suggests that the beach is in a state of dynamic


refAbstractLine:
equilibrium about an equilibrium profile.


refAbstractLine:
The experiment described in this paper was carried out using daily sampling of the indigenous material of the graded


refAbstractLine:
pebble structure of Chesil Beach, Dorset. It was found that longshore drift sorting was dependent on: (1) the angle of


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swell approach, (2) the sine of twice the angle of swell approach relative to the normal, (3) the square-root of the


refAbstractLine:
significant wave height. The vertical sorting was dependent on: (1) the wave frequency and (2) the square-root of the


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significant wave height. The processes are reflected most significantly in the mean short diameters of the pebble


refAbstractLine:
Recordings have been made of sea waves at two sites off Chesil Beach over a two year period. The records have been


refAbstractLine:
analysed and the resulting data is presented. The beach is one of the most exposed on the English Channel and the


refAbstractLine:
results derived give a guide to the most severe wave conditions likely to occur on unsheltered Channel coasts.


refAbstractLine:
Although the original scope of this study mainly concerned the movement of shingle in the vicinity of West Bay Harbour,


refAbstractLine:
two principal arguments serve to explain the widening of the original terms of reference. First, that local shingle


refAbstractLine:
movements must be seen in the broader context of geological setting, geomorphological/ hydraulic environment and


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resource use and development; and second that events at West Bay itself both influence and are influenced by events


refAbstractLine:
further along the Chesil Bank. This report therefore examines the following: the geology and geomorphology of the


refAbstractLine:
coast between Eype Mouth and Burton Bradstock and the Chesil Bank between West Bay and the Isle of Portland; past,


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present and future resource use at West Bay; coastal changes and beach behaviour in West Bay; the possible long-term


refAbstractLine:
threat of gravel extraction; the fluorescent tracer experiment at West Bay and flooding at Chesilton, Isle of


refAbstractLine:
Portland. Appendices provide summaries and notes relating to Public Inquiries on the extraction of sand and shingle from


refAbstractLine:
the foreshore at West Bay, Burton Bradstock (Cogden Beach), Chesilton (Portland).


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This booklet consists of a number of papers about the Fleet and Chesil Beach and are the result of a one day seminar on


refAbstractLine:
the structure and biology of these unique coastal features, held at the Dorset County Museum. Included are discussions


refAbstractLine:
on the stability and processes acting upon Chesil Beach; hydrology, tides, water levels and salinity structure of the


refAbstractLine:
Fleet and finally, terrestrial and marine ecology of the area.


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Describes geomorphic changes at Chesil Beach, the vulnerability of Chiswell's location and an historical


refAbstractLine:
account of storms and floods and the action taken by local residents to improve flood protection works.


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This paper describes the examination of pebble grading below low-water mark off Chesil Bank, Dorset, using skin-diving


refAbstractLine:
techniques. It is found, contrary to some of the statements in previous literature, that there is no reversal of size


refAbstractLine:
grading of pebbles below low water compared with that present on the beach, but a series of zones are shown to


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exist parallel to the Bank which appear to be related both to its evolution and to present-day wave action. The zones


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are thought to be best defined under constructive wave conditions, and suggestions on their relationship with the


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Tidal stirring of the seas in the neighbourhood of headlands, promontories and islands may concentrate


refAbstractLine:
sediments and result in the formation of tidal banks. At regular, small-scale promontories, symmetric bank


refAbstractLine:
development may occur. The situation at Portland Bill is examined in detail where bank development occurs


refAbstractLine:
preferentially in the anticlock-wise eddy to the east, resulting in the formation of the 'Shambles', and some


refAbstractLine:
effects of the Earth's rotation are considered.


refAbstractLine:
This paper describes an experiment to investigate sediment movements on the Chesil Beach. The first experiment used


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brickbats which were 'thrown' into the sea about half way between high and low water marks, and then noted for their


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movements and where they were deposited.


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Describes how repairs were carried out on the sea-outfall sewer on the storm-beach at Chesil Cove.


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The country behind Lyme Regis forms a plateau which is deeply dissected by the five valleys of Harcombe, Rocombe,


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Yawl, Holcombe and Cannington. Their streams rise in the Upper Greensand and are superimposed on Lias and Rhaetic in


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the lower parts of their valleys, which unite at Uplyme to form the River Lyme. The cross-profiles of the valleys show


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a marked terrace above the Lias, where sapping by springs has worn back the Upper Greensand into a scarp above, while


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in the interfluve spurs the Upper Greensand shows exceptionally smooth contours. The lower hillsides have


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irregular knolly contours in the Lower Lias clays and limestones. Probably the Yawl and Harcombe streams were the


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earliest to develop, as consequence on the tilted Pliocene plateau surface. As the land rose, the valleys were


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deepened, sectioning the Cretaceous beds, which in turn supplied springs, until the Jurassic was reached. The


refAbstractLine:
Cannington stream forms an obsequent tributary to those of Yawl and Harcombe; its headwaters in the Shapwick valley


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probably captured the original head in the Happy Valley. The remarkable correspondence between the cliff and valley


refAbstractLine:
profiles is due to the fact that the erosion of the cliffs, like that of the valleys, is mainly sub-aerial.


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A brief summary is given of the history of the earlier landslips on the coast of south-east Devon and west Dorset,


refAbstractLine:
which have already been described by the author (1940, 1941). During the last thirty years there has been a great


refAbstractLine:
increase in the rate and scale of the slipping and there has also been a landslide precipitated by excavations in the


refAbstractLine:
town of Lyme Regis itself. A description is given of all these slips, with special reference to the light that they


refAbstractLine:
have thrown on the mechanism involved. Some of the movements have been obviously rotational, but there is still no


refAbstractLine:
evidence of tilting in the great 'island' beyond the chasm at Dowlands. However, further knowledge of the undercliffs


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between Lyme Regis and Axmouth has led to the recognition that they consist of a series of ridges tilted inland and


refAbstractLine:
running parallel to the coast-line. Study of these ridges, and of miniature chasms that have developed in certain


refAbstractLine:
fields, suggests that the 'island' is a horst-like mass which remained unmoved between the tilted ridges which slid


refAbstractLine:
down on its seaward side and in the chasms on its landward side.


refAbstractLine:
Geomorphological techniques, including morphological mapping and profiling have been used to investigate the distribution


refAbstractLine:
of old landslides on the southern slopes of the Char valley in west Dorset. It is shown that these field techniques


refAbstractLine:
provide data which can be usefully employed to precede and supplement geotechnical investigations. The spatial pattern


refAbstractLine:
of landslide morphology is described and a tentative chronology suggested. The survey reveals a similar, although


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more extensive and complete, pattern of landslide degradation to that reported for slides on London Clay and


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Some areas of instability show a rate of degradation exceeding that which can be expected to result from the


refAbstractLine:
action of surface run-off water alone. This accelerated degradation is shown to be due to association with


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reservoirs of groundwater. The presence of reservoirs initiates seepage and seepage erosion which in turn is


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responsible for the development of gully systems, and in the mature stage flow paths and flow bowls may result. Sheet


refAbstractLine:
flow is generated when the debris accumulation on a terrace is pushed forward over the terrace cliff on a broad front by


refAbstractLine:
the massive addition of material resulting from the activity of secondary reservoirs and its original nature is concealed


refAbstractLine:
In February 1978 the sea wall at West Bay Bridport suffered extensive storm damage and Wessex Water Authority asked HR


refAbstractLine:
to give advice as to the cause of the failure, the sufficiency of the temporary repair work and to outline


refAbstractLine:
proposals for permanent reinstatement of the sea defences and coast protection. Site visited together with a detailed


refAbstractLine:
topographic and hydrographic survey were completed following which recommendations were made with regard to possible


refAbstractLine:
schemes for West Beach and for protection at East Beach. Replenishment was suggested for West Beach together with


refAbstractLine:
additional placement of rock-armouring and the construction of bastions and the disposal of harbour entrance dredgings.


refAbstractLine:
At East Beach it was stressed that the crest-level must be maintained and emphasised that extreme care should be taken


refAbstractLine:
with any Chesil Beach "borrow areas" used for replenishment or re-charging. The continued commercial extraction of beach


refAbstractLine:
material could lead to serious consequences threatening coastal stability over a wide area unless carefully


refAbstractLine:
monitored. For the future, Chesil Beach should be conserved to provide a valuable sea defence asset.


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A description of the structure of the 'Burning Cliff', including an explanation for its so-called volcano like


refAbstractLine:
behaviour, and an account of the landslip of June 10th 1908. The causes of this landslip are said to be the abstraction


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of limestone from the shore below and the soakage of water into the cracks which form on the slopes.


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Detailed description of the geology of the Charmouth area.


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Describes the mud flows at Charmouth and likens them to 'true' glaciers in that they display similar flow movements,


refAbstractLine:
cracks and crevasses, moraine and striated rocks.


refAbstractLine:
A frontal region is predicted in Lyme Bay from a numerical model. A crescent-shaped feature is occasionally identified


refAbstractLine:
in the coastal-zone colour scanner imagery for this region. Measurements at sea confirm the development of a frontal


refAbstractLine:
zone which can show associated increases in levels of chlorophyll a. The surface distributions of inorganic


refAbstractLine:
nutrients indicate that nutrients and light levels are factors controlling the observed variations of surface


refAbstractLine:
This paper examines coastal problems around the Isle of Wight in the South Wight Borough Council area from the


refAbstractLine:
standpoint of the coast protection engineer. The rate of erosion at various points over the last 100 years is


refAbstractLine:
reviewed with comments on the nature and likely origin of beaches. Early coast protection works around the Island are


refAbstractLine:
described with comments on their effect. Major schemes undertaken in recent years are also described in outline. A


refAbstractLine:
brief resume is given of some of the procedures of the Coast Protection Act, 1949, together with comments on the


refAbstractLine:
influence of the Act on the adopted solutions.


refAbstractLine:
A review of marine dredging for sand and gravel in the United Kingdom and an explanation of the work carried out by


refAbstractLine:
Dr Nunny and Mr Chillingworth as consultants engaged by the Department of the Environment. The paper covers the scope of


refAbstractLine:
the project, setting it in the context of the overall DOE research programme. The paper includes an assessment of both


refAbstractLine:
onshore and offshore problems with some reference to the area around the Isle of Wight.


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The paper examines the extent and distribution of coastal erosion on the Isle of Wight. Brief descriptions are given


refAbstractLine:
of the more dramatic changes that have taken place. Criticism is aimed at the artificial removal of sand and


refAbstractLine:
shingle which, Colenutt claims, is causing irreparable damage both on the Island and on the English mainland.


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Brief review of the geological history of the Island, an explanation of the various rock types, their composition and


refAbstractLine:
their present day distributions in the Island and in the adjacent sub-marine areas. Also describes the natural


refAbstractLine:
processes such as climatic and sea-level changes that have contributed to land slipping.


refAbstractLine:
This account of the coastal landslides of the Isle of Wight is based upon a review of the available literature, a


refAbstractLine:
stereoscopic examination of vertical air photographs covering nearly the whole coastline and a brief field


refAbstractLine:
reconnaissance in January 1962. An approximate classification is made of both present and past landslides


refAbstractLine:
and a general indication given of the scale of the instability on the different parts of the coast. Mention is


refAbstractLine:
An examination of cliff erosion and coastal landslides at two sites on the strongly eroding length of coast NW of


refAbstractLine:
Rocken End, at Chale Cliffs outside the Undercliff and at Gore Cliff within it, and two sites within the less exposed


refAbstractLine:
main length of the Undercliff, at St Catherine's Point and at Ventnor.


refAbstractLine:
Report on the erosion of the Isle of Wight coastline. Describes recent landslips at Ventnor and Undercliff which


refAbstractLine:
resulted in the loss of several homes. Suggests that the Isle of Wight could disappear after a further 5,000 years.


refAbstractLine:
Department of Environment has announced a major study into the landslips which will involve mapping and recommendations


refAbstractLine:
This paper includes an account of the tide level, current behaviour and the wave exposure together with an explanation


refAbstractLine:
of the significance of storm surges which can be so destructive to the coastline. Attention is also paid to the


refAbstractLine:
This geological guide takes the form of five regional sections and for each of these, coverage is given of the


refAbstractLine:
succession and structure. For the whole area under consideration the outstanding geological events involved


refAbstractLine:
(1)the incoming of marine conditions in the Rhaetic after the long 'continental' period during the Permian and Trias;


refAbstractLine:
(2)long-continued marine sedimentation under varying conditions throughout the period of deposition of the Lower,


refAbstractLine:
the Middle and the greater part of the Upper Jurassic sediments (up to the Portlandian); (3)the retreat of the sea


refAbstractLine:
towards the end of the Jurassic Period, with the development of mainly continental conditions during the Purbeckian and


refAbstractLine:
Wealden; and (4)the return of the sea in Cretaceous times, with the development of the great stratigraphical break


refAbstractLine:
between the local basal Cretaceous beds and the underlying strata.


refAbstractLine:
Dramatic changes have taken place in the Black Ven cliffs during the 22 years since 1946. The maximum cliff retreat is


refAbstractLine:
about 200 feet and both mudflow lobes have been eroded since 1958. They have retreated between 100 and 250 feet.


refAbstractLine:
An undercliff in the centre of a coastal landslide near Charmouth, Dorset has been monitored for five years in an


refAbstractLine:
attempt to establish general models of evolution and rates of erosion by large- and small-scale processes. The cliff is


refAbstractLine:
21m high at a mean angle of 35 degrees, is unvegetated and suffers basal removal of debris by mudslides. The slope is


refAbstractLine:
studied from 1966-1971 with the aid of a sequence of aerial photographs from 1946-1969, field mapping, estimation of


refAbstractLine:
landslide volumes. and erosion pins. The rate of erosion is summarised in maps, tables and isoline maps to show the


refAbstractLine:
temporal, spatial and magnitude variability of landslide processes and a three-dimensional pattern of slope


refAbstractLine:
evolution. It is suggested that short-term measurements of erosion rates should not be used for long-term calculations


refAbstractLine:
unless the spatial and temporal variability of the process is known.


refAbstractLine:
The purpose of this booklet is to provide a concise description and explanation of some of the most important


refAbstractLine:
features of the Dorset coastline. This includes a group of actively collapsing cliffs with landslides - Black Ven,


refAbstractLine:
Stonebarrow and Golden Cap in west Dorset; the unique shingle ridge of Chesil Beach; the raised beach at Portland


refAbstractLine:
Bill and the coves of Stair Hole, Durdle Door and Lulworth.


refAbstractLine:
The form and evolution of Fairy Dell, an active landslide complex on the Dorset coast, is described using a


refAbstractLine:
combination of cartographic, air photograph and field survey techniques. Erosion rates for the main landslide scars,


refAbstractLine:
undercliffs and sea cliffs are calculated and the spatial patterns of landslide evolution, demonstrated by the use of


refAbstractLine:
sequences of maps and geological cross sections. Two dominant mechanisms are identified and described: (1)


refAbstractLine:
rotational landsliding and (2) block disruption, the break-up of originally large landslide units as they move downslope


refAbstractLine:
and over time. The role of small-erosion, in combination with the infilling of depressions by scree, wash debris and


refAbstractLine:
mudslides so as to produce an increasingly subdued topography as the landslides degrade, is emphasised and


refAbstractLine:
simple evolutionary models are proposed. The active landslide complex is then compared with the now stable,


refAbstractLine:
degraded landslide slopes inland. It is shown how the spatial patterns of landforms recognised in these areas on


refAbstractLine:
morphological maps and the complex subsurface forms revealed in sections can be better understood by reference to the


refAbstractLine:
suggested evolutionary sequence developed for the active complex. The sections in the stable but degraded slopes


refAbstractLine:
clearly support the idea of retrogressive rotational landsliding followed by block disruption, infilling and the


refAbstractLine:
downslope reduction of topographic expression of landslide units. Finally it is suggested that this evolutionary


refAbstractLine:
interpretation might assist in the understanding of similar areas elsewhere and, if used in conjunction with


refAbstractLine:
geomorphological surveys, could result in the planning of more efficient site investigations.


refAbstractLine:
In the west Dorset coastal area superficial materials include Head deposits which, by the nature of their origin,


refAbstractLine:
are variable in structure and composition. Two broad types are recognised depending on the provenance of the


refAbstractLine:
predominant constituent: Cretaceous Head and Lias Head. The Cretaceous Head was probably formed near to or at the end of


refAbstractLine:
the Devensian stage of the Late Pleistocene. Where the two types of Head deposit are superimposed, Cretaceous Head


refAbstractLine:
always lies above Lias Head. On many slopes Lias Head has topographic expression as lobate sheet forms which are


refAbstractLine:
frequently masked by a blanket of Cretaceous Head. The high permeability of Cretaceous Head together with the low


refAbstractLine:
strength of Lias Head produce slopes presenting potentially unstable conditions to depths of up to 4m below ground


refAbstractLine:
surface. Three minor types of instability are generated in the Head deposits themselves: shallow transitional


refAbstractLine:
movements, block slides and shallow rotational slides. In addition, the high permeability of Cretaceous Head permits


refAbstractLine:
water to be introduced to undercliff areas, thus facilitating the development of instabilities in the solid


refAbstractLine:
formations below. This results in a mechanism of cliff-top retreat which is quite independent of cliff-toe erosion. The


refAbstractLine:
events at sites in Lyme Regis and Charmouth are summarised to illustrate the hazard presented by Head deposits in


refAbstractLine:
This book on the geology of Dorset is divided into three sections, dealing with west, central and east Dorset,


refAbstractLine:
Bridport (or Lyme Regis), Weymouth and Swanage forming convenient centres. Each section begins with a general


refAbstractLine:
account of the geology, followed by a detailed description of the coast, from west to east.


refAbstractLine:
An area of the sea floor between the Isle of Portland and Durlston Head, Dorset has been surveyed in detail using


refAbstractLine:
asdic equipment for recording relief, and a gravity corer and free-swimming divers for obtaining samples. Neighbouring


refAbstractLine:
areas were examined in less detail. The asdic provides an acoustic picture of the sea floor, and enables outcrops and


refAbstractLine:
faults to be mapped. Supplementary information was obtained from Admiralty surveys. The submerged part of the Isle of


refAbstractLine:
Purbeck Anticline is shown to be an elongated dome with Corallian rocks exposed in its core at Lulworth Bank. The


refAbstractLine:
dome is intersected by many sub-parallel faults trending about 15 degrees east of north. Except along the steep


refAbstractLine:
monoclinal limb dips are low, seldom more than 3 or 4 degrees. Minor folds are superimposed on the main structure.


refAbstractLine:
In the east they lie nearly east and west, while in the west, where the Purbeck Anticline yields place to the


refAbstractLine:
Weymouth Anticline, a north-westerly trend is dominant. South of the Purbeck Anticline lies a broad and gentle


refAbstractLine:
syncline in Jurassic and Lower Cretaceous rocks which is named the Shambles Syncline. It is overlain unconformably by


refAbstractLine:
This booklet provides 7 itineraries for geological field trips in Dorset. The geology of each site is described in


refAbstractLine:
This is a brief report of the results obtained and the ideas developed as a result of a field exercise carried out by


refAbstractLine:
Dr. D. Brunsden and a party of undergraduates at the Stonebarrow landslip. The aims of the group were first, to


refAbstractLine:
make a preliminary survey of the landslip and secondly, to study the forms of mass movement active within the slip


refAbstractLine:
area. It should be noted that some of the hypotheses are pure conjecture and further research has since been carried


refAbstractLine:
out to establish the true nature of the movements.


refAbstractLine:
Describes the action of marine and sub-aerial denudation on sea cliffs and distinguishes these from 'true' landslip


refAbstractLine:
behaviour. Various examples are given along the Devon-Dorset border.


refAbstractLine:
A description of the geology of the Dorset coast.


refAbstractLine:
The aim of this account is to examine and illustrate the evidence for: (a) incised Pleistocene channel systems in the


refAbstractLine:
upper reaches of the Solent River and (b) the chronology of the breaching of the Wight-Purbeck Ridge. Seven sites around


refAbstractLine:
Poole and Christchurch Bays are considered.


refAbstractLine:
The landslip at Bindon is situated in the Axmouth-Lyme Regis Undercliffs National Nature Reserve, some 3.5 miles west of


refAbstractLine:
Lyme Regis. With the Folkestone Warren landslip, it is probably the most widely documented event of this kind in


refAbstractLine:
the British Isles. The aim of this paper is to consider the work carried out on the Bindon landslip since 1839, and


refAbstractLine:
briefly to show its place in the context of a broader research programme being carried out on the mass movement


refAbstractLine:
This paper gives a detailed history of the Axmouth-Lyme Regis Undercliffs Nature Reserve. Much of the landslipping


refAbstractLine:
in the Reserve is of considerable antiquity, and it is fortunate that the area is of great geological interest


refAbstractLine:
since much of the published information has yielded clues which are of relevance to the landslips. The erosion


refAbstractLine:
subsequent to major landslipping, and the development of a luxuriant vegetation over the landslips, have masked much of


refAbstractLine:
the detail requiring study. It is the purpose of this paper to show that extremely valuable detail on processes and form


refAbstractLine:
may be accumulated from historical documents pertinent to small and large scale studies of mass movements.


refAbstractLine:
The investigation of a complex mass movement modified coastal cliff developed on soft rocks on the west Dorset


refAbstractLine:
coast has been accomplished by using historic maps, air photographs and ground survey data. This has revealed that


refAbstractLine:
over the hundred year time period there is a high degree of integration between process and form and that the system


refAbstractLine:
appears to be in a state of dynamic equilibrium. The characteristic gross form appears to be maintained over this


refAbstractLine:
time period even though the size and location of the individual components changes. It is also possible to


refAbstractLine:
identify the frequency and magnitude of the formative events which create the diagnostic or dominant form of the system.


refAbstractLine:
The period of 100 years is therefore recommended as a most relevant time scale for the study of this type of coastal


refAbstractLine:
A chronology of landsliding is presented, including suggestions as to a date for initiation. Periods of activity


refAbstractLine:
known from historical sources are correlated with known periods of climatic deterioration. The current morphology of


refAbstractLine:
the landslide slopes is closely related to the geological succession and structure. These permit the landslides and


refAbstractLine:
their development to be differentiated on the basis of whole slope and toe morphology, and much of the whole-slope


refAbstractLine:
activity can be related to conditions at the toe. Examples of geomorphological maps, slope categories maps, and cross


refAbstractLine:
sections are presented along with an example of the 'evolutionary' maps which may be derived from Ordnance


refAbstractLine:
Survey plans and aerial photographs. These generally indicate that weakening of materials by weathering, seepage


refAbstractLine:
erosion at the toe, and marine erosion result in frequent mass movements of a low magnitude. These events ultimately


refAbstractLine:
influence the stability of larger slipped blocks behind, which fail less frequently. It is suggested that whole-slope


refAbstractLine:
failures in this region have a maximum frequency of once in 120 to 150 years, and that problems of interpretation of


refAbstractLine:
historical accounts may mean that it is very much less frequent than this.


refAbstractLine:
Details are presented of a double undercliff, an unusual landform feature on the coast of south-east Devon. The double


refAbstractLine:
undercliff is the result of two separate landslides on argillaceous formations within the 127m high cliffs. The


refAbstractLine:
upper undercliff is probably of great antiquity, whereas the lower undercliff formed as recently as 1969. The double


refAbstractLine:
undercliff dies out as the lower argillaceous formation dips below sea level to the east, and is faulted out to the west.


refAbstractLine:
The stability of the slopes in each case depended on the shear strength of bedding laminations, and hence upon very


refAbstractLine:
low or zero cohesion. A back analysis suggests a mobilised angle of shearing resistance as low as 13 degrees for the


refAbstractLine:
lower undercliff. The future stability of the undercliffs is dependent mainly upon undrained crown loading, for the upper


refAbstractLine:
undercliff from the degradation of the backscar, and for the lower undercliff from the landslide above.


refAbstractLine:
The Bindon Landslide is situated on the coast of south-east Devon between Axmouth and Lyme Regis and is a complex block


refAbstractLine:
slide with a rear graben which produced a short-lived offshore toe-reef in 1839. No evidence has been found to


refAbstractLine:
support earlier opinions of a major rotational component or liquefaction. The geology of the slope comprises a series of


refAbstractLine:
Mesozoic rocks ranging from Penarth Group on a stable Mercia Mudstones basement, through Lower Lias, unconformably


refAbstractLine:
overlain by Upper Greensand and Chalk. The triggers of the slip movement were a combination of high rainfall and strong


refAbstractLine:
marine erosion. Shear strength parameters for the bedding partings within the black shales of the Westbury Formation


refAbstractLine:
have been obtained by back analysis and laboratory testing. The failure surface is interpreted as being in these


refAbstractLine:
materials. The dip of the beds is very low. The main driving force was generated by water pressure in a tension crack and


refAbstractLine:
on the failure surface. Groundwater data have been obtained from a nearby well. Results of stability analyses support


refAbstractLine:
the view that failure of the undercliff was the initiator of the main phase of landsliding.


refAbstractLine:
A descriptive account of a landslip on Jordan Cliff, Weymouth.


refAbstractLine:
Gives a comprehensive description of the coast from Lyme Regis through to Christchurch Bay. The coast is divided into


refAbstractLine:
seven sections and for each section details of geology, geomorphology and alternative theories of formation are


refAbstractLine:
This paper is the accompanying literature for an excursion to the south-west coast of Hampshire which includes stops at


refAbstractLine:
Hengistbury Head, Highcliffe, Barton, Hordle Cliff and Milford-on-Sea. For each location, details of geology,


refAbstractLine:
geomorphological history, coastal protection and in some cases, ecology, are given.


refAbstractLine:
Description of the 'mudlands' along Southampton Water and other parts of the Hampshire coast. Includes some historical


refAbstractLine:
During the 22nd Congress of the International Geographical Union at Montreal in 1972, a working group was set up to


refAbstractLine:
study the dynamics of shoreline erosion and deposition. This was to be a world-wide review of shoreline changes during


refAbstractLine:
the past century, drawing upon historical descriptions and evidence from maps, charts and ground and air photographs


refAbstractLine:
showing coastal configurations at various stages within this period. This particular report has been prepared as a


refAbstractLine:
contribution to this project and is a review of the evidence of advance or retreat of shorelines around the British Isles


refAbstractLine:
since the later decades of the 19th century. Evidence was sought from comparisons of OS maps of various dates and


refAbstractLine:
from information provided by local authorities and private individuals and the results are provided in this paper.


refAbstractLine:
Administrative difficulties sometimes inhibit the transfer of beach shingle from areas where there is a surplus to


refAbstractLine:
areas where there is a shortage and it may be necessary to form an artificial beach of ballast dug from an inland pit


refAbstractLine:
or of quarried stone to reinforce the defence works or as a substitute for them. Coast erosion may be caused by a


refAbstractLine:
seasonal reversal of the prevailing drift, or by the protection of a previously eroding frontage up-drift, or by


refAbstractLine:
building harbour works, or by attrition of beach material, and the recharging of a beach with imported stone may be a


refAbstractLine:
cheaper and more satisfactory all round solution than the progressive underpinning of sea walls. Nevertheless it can


refAbstractLine:
be a costly expedient and it is necessary to be able to compare the resistance of the imported material to loss by


refAbstractLine:
attrition with the behaviour of the natural beach material. The paper describes some simple tests which were carried out


refAbstractLine:
in an attempt to evaluate the relative resistance of various quarried stones and natural beaches to attrition.


refAbstractLine:
Attention is drawn to the ability of the lower parts of the mudslide type of mudflow to advance by shearing on slopes


refAbstractLine:
considerably flatter than those corresponding to limiting equilibrium for residual strength on the sliding surface and


refAbstractLine:
ground water coincident with and flowing parallel to the slope surface. Observations made in such mudslides using


refAbstractLine:
electrical piezometers are presented. These confirm the earlier suggestion (Hutchinson, 1970) that the sliding is


refAbstractLine:
brought about by the essentially undrained loading of the headward parts of the mudslides by debris discharged from


refAbstractLine:
steeper slopes to the rear. The importance of this mechanism in many other types of mass movement is indicated.


refAbstractLine:
Summaries of current coastal engineering projects.


refAbstractLine:
The object of this paper is to present, in the light of recent research, a general picture of the factors which


refAbstractLine:
control the movements of natural slopes, with particular reference to those examples which have been studied by the


refAbstractLine:
Building Research Station. Mention is made of the Axmouth landslips.


refAbstractLine:
In 1985, Bournemouth Borough Council proposed a number of measures to stop erosion of the cliff at Hengistbury Head,


refAbstractLine:
all of which led to eventual vegetation overgrowth, thereby obscuring the geological interest. Concern was expressed by


refAbstractLine:
the NCC regarding these and other works within the SSSI and eventually the NCC and the Borough Council agreed on a


refAbstractLine:
formal management agreement. The prime objective of this management plan is to protect the geological interest and


refAbstractLine:
both bodies are now committed to participate in the regular clearance of any fallen debris which accumulates at the


refAbstractLine:
cliff toe in order to ensure that the cliff sections remain fresh and available for detailed study.


refAbstractLine:
Report on the rebuilding of the Keyhaven to Pennington sea wall which protects a valuable Hampshire SSSI. Difficulties


refAbstractLine:
were faced because of the presence of a series of saline lagoons behind the sea wall which support four species


refAbstractLine:
notified by the NCC for inclusion on the endangered species list. Great care therefore had to be taken to ensure that


refAbstractLine:
these lagoon habitats were not harmed in any way. A trial was carried out on one lagoon using a special geotextile


refAbstractLine:
filter blanket to confine the sea wall fill and prevent any contamination of the lagoon water. Results so far show that


refAbstractLine:
no significant changes in lagoon fauna have occurred so it appears that the method is successful.


refAbstractLine:
The coastline at Barton-on-Sea, Hampshire, forms part of Christchurch Bay, 14km long by 3km deep, stretching from


refAbstractLine:
Hengistbury Head to Hurst Castle. Geologically, the 30m high cliffs consist of Eocene clays with sand of the Barton Beds.


refAbstractLine:
Constant failures of the cliff, due to percolation from a high water table above the stiff clay, were posing a threat


refAbstractLine:
to residential areas. Wave attack was removing the scree as it arrived at the foot of the undercliff and even were this


refAbstractLine:
prevented, the top of the cliffs would continue to recede in seeking a flatter, more stable slope. A limited length of


refAbstractLine:
drainage system was initially constructed intermediately between the upper cliff edge and the stiff clay fronting the


refAbstractLine:
beach, and four experimental timber groynes built transverse to the shoreline. This being successful, the drain and


refAbstractLine:
groynes were extended along 1.5km of coastline to east and west and a timber revetment was constructed behind the beach


refAbstractLine:
head. Though these works reduced wave reflection from the cliffs, it was found to be insufficient to encourage the


refAbstractLine:
minimum needs for beach build up. In the winter of 1974-75, a combination of exceptionally heavy rainfall and storm sea


refAbstractLine:
conditions led to severe erosion of the clay beneath the beach and the excessive beach drawdown resulted in collapse


refAbstractLine:
of some of the revetment and a severe mud flow failure which reached back to the top of the cliff. Prior to this, an


refAbstractLine:
experimental bastion of rubble-mound construction had been built around the western terminal groyne to attract and


refAbstractLine:
retain more shingle. This was very successful and subsequently two more have been similarly built to replace


refAbstractLine:
groynes 18 and 22 on a threatened length of coast and a programme of beach nourishment put in hand. This utilised


refAbstractLine:
larger sized shingle that was present in the littoral drift in view of the increased exposure to predominant storms. To


refAbstractLine:
date, this has produced a series of reformed natural beaches between bastions and not only does the material remain on


refAbstractLine:
the beach above LWL, but the smaller natural beach material has been attracted and held. Although it is necessary to


refAbstractLine:
demonstrate an economic justification for expenditure on coast protection works, residents are also keenly interested


refAbstractLine:
in the amenity values. This generates considerable interest in such works as those undertaken at Barton and emphasises


refAbstractLine:
the limitations of a Local Authority to take prompt action in emergency situations, especially when financial


refAbstractLine:
stringency requires maximum economy. This situation is discussed with special reference to the efforts at Barton to


refAbstractLine:
produce natural beaches economically which satisfy both protection and amenity requirements to best advantage.


refAbstractLine:
Summarises the Coast Protection Act, 1949 and then describes coastal protection works in the New Forest Borough Council's


refAbstractLine:
area. This includes cliff stabilisation at Barton-on-Sea and Milford-on-Sea, coastline protection below Naish Farm


refAbstractLine:
Holiday Village and reinforcement of the Hurst Bank. Background information to the proposed works is given,


refAbstractLine:
covering winds, waves and tides; off-shore topography and geology. Details of costs of the various schemes are also


refAbstractLine:
Consultant engineers report to the Borough Engineer at Lymington regarding a proposed scheme for the construction


refAbstractLine:
of bastions at Chewton Bunny, Barton-on-Sea. Includes a summary of the extent of erosion in the area, details of


refAbstractLine:
the construction of the works and estimated costs.


refAbstractLine:
Newspaper report on the need for coastal protection schemes in the Lymington borough, estimated to cost over œ500,000.


refAbstractLine:
This includes works at Milford and Barton, the latter cliffs said to be receding at a rate of 3ft per year. The Borough


refAbstractLine:
Council intend to appeal for a grant from the Ministry of Housing and Local Government to help towards the cost.


refAbstractLine:
Report on the controversy over the proposed coast protection works on the Naish Farm Section within the Barton-on-Sea


refAbstractLine:
Cliffs SSSI. The Nature Conservancy Council, supported by Hampshire County Council, is objecting to the New Forest


refAbstractLine:
District Council's plans and intends to seek a Public Inquiry should the District Council apply for grant aid


refAbstractLine:
Consultant engineers report on proposed cliff stabilisation works at Barton. Includes a full site description and


refAbstractLine:
explanation for the extensive erosional problems, measures necessary for the solution of these problems and estimated


refAbstractLine:
Atlas showing tidal streams at different times before and after high water.


refAbstractLine:
The coastline to the west of Hengistbury Head is eroding rapidly. It is possible that the cause of this erosion is


refAbstractLine:
the protection of the beaches to the west, at Bournemouth, which have been stabilised by a system of wooden groynes to


refAbstractLine:
retain the sand to preserve the beach for recreation. Whatever the cause of erosion, there is a risk of the sea


refAbstractLine:
breaking through the low cliffs just to the west of Hengistbury Head, which are made of soft unconsolidated


refAbstractLine:
alluvial deposits. Waves breaking over these cliffs during storms at high spring tides would produce overland flow


refAbstractLine:
northwards into the harbour. This flow would erode a gully thereby weakening the neck of land between the Head and the


refAbstractLine:
'mainland'. Bournemouth Borough Council plans to install further groynes both at Double Dykes, to prevent the breach


refAbstractLine:
from occurring, and east of the Long Groyne to prevent erosion of the Head itself. This paper anticipates the


refAbstractLine:
likely impacts if these coastal protection works are not carried out. These include the potential flood losses,


refAbstractLine:
property losses and the social impacts of frequent flooding. In addition are the land and property losses due to erosion;


refAbstractLine:
geological, ecological and archaeological impacts on Christchurch Harbour and the loss of recreation potential.


refAbstractLine:
The study involved a detailed survey of the sediment distribution pattern of a selected area in the Eastern end


refAbstractLine:
of the Solent. Samples were taken from the seabed at selected points using grab sampling gear on board the Civil


refAbstractLine:
Engineering Departments hydrographic survey vessel 'Thrift'. The samples were then taken back to the laboratory and


refAbstractLine:
analysed using a comprehensive nest of sieves to obtain particle size distributions. The results were then processed


refAbstractLine:
by computer to give graphic displays of the data, sorting coefficients, skewness, kurtosis, mean and median diameters


refAbstractLine:
and various other coefficients for each sample. Using the data obtained from this survey and from those of earlier


refAbstractLine:
surveys carried out by Grontmij, D.J. Carter and D.A. Harlow, the author attempts to fit a trend surface to the percentage


refAbstractLine:
shingle fraction and median diameter values for the study area.


refAbstractLine:
The report summarises an environmental assessment project which was managed by the Environmental Affairs Department of


refAbstractLine:
Shell U.K. Exploration and Production. This is a brief and selective review of the Solent environment but encompasses a


refAbstractLine:
number of topics ranging from its geomorphological history to present day activities. This includes a summary of its


refAbstractLine:
prevailing climatic and oceanographic characteristics, archaeological and historical heritage, land use and


refAbstractLine:
pressures on the Solent. The latter pays attention to the fishing industry, marine aggregate dredging, recreational


refAbstractLine:
sailing and commercial shipping. In conclusion, a framework of responsibility is given which reviews the overall


refAbstractLine:
planning context, conservation of the natural environment and archaeological and historical heritage and finally the


refAbstractLine:
regulatory and legal regime of the Solent.


refAbstractLine:
This bibliography provides summaries and details of coastal defences installed along the Hampshire coastline, including


refAbstractLine:
information on the type of construction, the reason for the works and the degree of success. Appendix B lists proposed


refAbstractLine:
coastal defence projects, but in addition to the information as given above includes the proposed start date and current


refAbstractLine:
action. Appendix C contains a list of surveyed beach profiles which are stored on the beach data base at


refAbstractLine:
Hydraulics Research. The last two appendices give bibliographies, indexed according to author and subject.


refAbstractLine:
Spectral analyses of wave forces measured at the Christchurch Bay Tower, in relation to environmental


refAbstractLine:
parameters are presented. The forces are obtained from 2 cylinders of different diameters which are in the inertia


refAbstractLine:
and drag/ inertia force regimes. The theoretical background was provided by previous work which developed relationships


refAbstractLine:
for the mean square value of wave force and which has been used to determine the force coefficients for the measured


refAbstractLine:
data. Simplifying assumptions need to be made, for spectral purposes, in order to deal with the non-linearity of the


refAbstractLine:
drag term. The work of Borgman for uni-directional waves has been evaluated by means of the measured data.


refAbstractLine:
The purpose of the tower is to study wave forces on vertical cylinders at a large scale and in real sea conditions, and


refAbstractLine:
to study the behaviour of a gravity foundation. The wave forces have been analysed by wave-by-wave, mean square,


refAbstractLine:
statistical and spectral methods. Force coefficients have been found to be dependent on the Keulegan-Carpenter Number


refAbstractLine:
and also on the tidal current. The latter effect may arise from the manner in which the vortices are convected away


refAbstractLine:
from the cylinder. Key measurements include the fluid particle velocity and acceleration, which are obtained from


refAbstractLine:
perforated ball instruments developed specially for this project. The particle velocities in depth limited waves have


refAbstractLine:
been found to be over-predicted by shallow water wave theories.


refAbstractLine:
This booklet looks at how Hampshire's rich coastline has developed since the last Ice Age. It considers how the


refAbstractLine:
surviving wildlife habitats reflect not just the natural processes of colonisation by plants and animals, but also


refAbstractLine:
the part played by man in creating suitable conditions for them over the centuries. The booklet identifies those parts


refAbstractLine:
of the coast which are of irreplaceable value to wildlife, and rounds off the picture by showing what political and


refAbstractLine:
administrative machinery is needed to ensure the conservation of the undeveloped coast.


refAbstractLine:
Examines the development of Hurst Spit (waves, tides, sea bed levels, storm surges) and the recent breaching and


refAbstractLine:
flooding. Also considers offshore dredging and its potential impact; the history of coast protection measures and


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Patches of sedimentary furrows are developed at several locations in the cohesive estuarine sediments of Southampton


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Water (water depth 1-12m). These furrows apparently result from short periods of erosion followed by long periods of


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deposition. Although all the furrows are similar, regularly spaced, parallel troughs, 0.5-1.5m wide aligned with the


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dominant current, furrows in different patches have different characteristics. In some areas furrow width is 1/5


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to 1/15 of furrow spacing (termed narrow) whereas in other areas furrow width is about 1/2 of the spacing (termed


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wide). Narrow furrows have developed where sediment accumulation rates are greater than 3.6cm/yr; wide furrows


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where accumulation rates are lower. Cockle shells, and other coarse sediments, concentrated on the furrow floors and on


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floors of smaller (2-10cms wide) mini-furrows, play an important role in furrow formation and evolution as they act


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to widen the furrows when mobilised during current episodes. Uniform sedimentation across the profile during slack


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periods tends to narrow the furrow. Some of the larger furrows have remained in the same position for 12 years,


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while mini-furrows have duration scales of a few months or less. Well-developed furrows are also found in a recently


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dredged channel. Bedforms similar to those described here may be preserved in the sedimentary record. While no


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analogues to the larger furrows are presently known, mini-furrows may be morphologically similar to the 'gutter


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Summarises the habitats and wildlife of the Solent shore and reports on the nature conservation status of the area.


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Describes and illustrates the coastal environment, locates major sites of scientific interest (both above and below low


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water mark) and assesses the principle threats to coastal natural habitats.


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History and details of stabilisation works. Details of extent of erosion with time, predictions of probable loss of


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land and number of houses to be evacuated. Estimated costs of works.


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Gives proposals for the stabilisation of the undercliff at Barton.


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A brief study has been undertaken of all the data now available on the marine climate in Christchurch Bay that


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affect the inshore bed along the Barton frontage. Looks at erosion, topography, currents and waves, beach changes


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(using historical maps) and coastal protection works.


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This discussion document was published by Hampshire County Council as a contribution to the European Year of the


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Environment. It covers all aspects of the coastline, including past and present uses; growing pressures brought


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on by increasing development; the problems of coastal erosion and potential solutions. Finally, the document


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summarises the political and administrative network which aims to protect the coast and ensure careful future


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Application of the Portsmouth Model to indicate how tidal currents in Portsmouth Harbour would be affected by the


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deepening of the entrance to Haslar Lake and by the removal of the Ballast Bank.


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This work was carried out in order to examine the possible effects on conditions in the main channels of Portsmouth


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Harbour if considerable areas within the harbour were reclaimed.


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The proposed scheme is to dredge a marina in the south-western corner (Eastney Lake) of Langstone Harbour,


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and to use the material obtained to reclaim, for development, an area on the southern side of the marina.


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Part of the spoil will be deposited in a northern reclamation area which may be completely reclaimed later.


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Initially chalk bunds will be built to retain the reclamation's. Moorings will be provided in the northern part


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of the marina area and to the north-east of it outside the reclamation, under the control of Portsmouth City. The


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marina proper, on the south side of the marina area, will be operated by the developers. The proposed northern


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reclamation area is 49 acres and the southern area 63 acres making a total of 112 acres which represents approximately


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2.3% of the total area of the Harbour. The water area of the marina is 56 acres (1.1%). The reclamation's represent only a


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very small percentage of the tidal volume of the whole harbour so one would not anticipate a significant effect on


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the harbour generally. It would be unwise, however, to rule out the possibility of a small build-up of material along


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the western shore of the harbour, north of the reclamation. The full effects in this area might not be felt for perhaps


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twenty years and the area affected is unlikely to extend beyond the Boom Channel.


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In January 1973, the Sussex River Authority contacted HR about the maintenance of the shingle ridge at Medmerry Bay.


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The high cost of shingle replenishment by the traditional method of transporting lorry loads of gravel prompted the


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Authority to consider alternative means. It was found that costs could be reduced by some 60% if the beach could be


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maintained by dumping dredged material on to the beach from offshore. The main problem was uncertainty in the direction


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of movement of the shingle once material has been dumped at the low water mark of spring tides, which was the closest


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dredgers could approach the shore. HR undertook to test the feasibility of this method of beach feeding by supervising a


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field investigation involving the tracking of shingle movement across the lower foreshore. This report discusses


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the feasibility of beach replenishment from offshore and describes the measures which will provided adequate


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protection against breaching by wave attack. The findings of the investigation also enabled a closer understanding to be


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reached of the influence of waves and tidal currents on movements of beach material.


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Hydraulics Research is often approached by the Crown Estate Commissioners to assess the likely physical consequences on


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nearby coastlines that could arise from the commercial dredging of offshore deposits of shingle. In these cases


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attention is given to two major effects that may occasion damage to the shoreline. First, the locally increased depths


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of the dredged area can alter the angle of incidence of waves on to the beaches. Erosion and accretion as the coast


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re-adjusts to the new wave situation may have adverse consequences on amenity. Secondly, removal of offshore


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shingle may deprive the shore-line of its natural source of beach material. It is necessary, therefore, to assess


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whether the shingle that is to be dredged is moving towards the land under the present circumstances of waves and tides.


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If it is not, there is no danger so far as source considerations are concerned. This particular report


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describes the movement of shingle on the seabed south-east of the Isle of Wight, an area of high dredging potential. A


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field study was carried out into the strength of tidal currents in the area. Wave information was obtained from the


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Owers Light Vessel situated between the Isle of Wight and Selsey Bill. This information was used to predict the


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threshold of movement of shingle at different depths under the combined action of waves and tidal currents. It was


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found that the threshold size decreased with increasing water depth. From this, one finds that 25mm shingle, for


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example, will not move in water depths greater than 22 metres. The theoretical analysis has not been verified


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experimentally and more work needs to be carried out before a reliable criterion is derived.


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In 1976 the Hydraulics Research Station studied the data available at that time to determine whether any possible


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environmental side-effects to the Isle of Wight coastline could be attributed to the dredging for marine aggregate in


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the West Solent. The report submitted to the Crown Estate Commissioners in March 1977 stressed the difficulty of


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differentiating between coastal erosion due to natural, or other causes, and that element which could result from a


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single enterprise, such as dredging. It recommended that any further removal of sand and gravel from Solent Bank should


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be combined with an effective form of monitoring, and this present report describes the field work and data collection,


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together with the analysis and comment, which resulted from that recommendation. A 3-year programme jointly financed by


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the Commissioners and the dredging companies was started in 1978 and this included six-monthly hydrographic surveys,


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three monthly beach profiling between Gurnard Bay and Hamstead Ledge, together with side-scan sonar records,


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current metering and bed sampling at less frequent intervals. Monthly dredging records were submitted. It is


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concluded that the four beaches under review on the Island shoreline have remained generally stable throughout the


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1978-81 period, and that the tidal currents at the extremities of the licensed area are virtually unchanged.


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However, the analysis of the remaining data and surveys with the dredging records suggest that the Bank could not sustain


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this recent rate of extraction (it was 260,000 cubic metres in 1980) and it is recommended that in future the annual


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total removed should not exceed 150,000 cubic metres from the licensed area. A modified form of monitoring should


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continue and a possible programme for this is outlined.


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This report describes the protection of Hurst Castle from wave attack. The shingle beach seawards of the castle


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frontage is dwindling and remedial works are necessary to prevent waves undermining the castle walls. Since beach


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recession appears to be a long term and continuing trend the authors consider that more massive sea defences than those


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used in the past should now be considered. An armoured revetment of quarry stone or precast concrete units is


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recommended as a long term solution to the problem.


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In March 1983, Hydraulics Research were approached by the Borough of Christchurch, who were seeking advice in


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connection with a planned nourishment of the beach at Highcliffe. As part of the overall coast protection scheme


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for this area, it was proposed that prior to the placing of the beach nourishment material, the existing groynes and


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revetment should be improved. These improvements were designed to retain the nourished beach and reduce its


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depletion by wave action, particularly by the alongshore currents that the obliquely incident waves create. HR were


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commissioned to carry out a brief appraisal of the proposed new works, bearing in mind the history of the present


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revetment and groynes and the likely response of the beach following the nourishment.


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This report describes a physical model study of a shingle beach carried out at the request of Christchurch BC who


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are proposing to protect their coastline at Highcliffe with a nourishment scheme in 1984/85. Apart from the


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2-dimensional flume tests, additional advice was given on the type of material which would be suitable and


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recommendations put forward for monitoring the completed scheme.


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As part of Phase 2 of the CIRIA research project into the effectiveness of groyne systems, HR were commissioned to


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carry out a programme of physical model tests. This report describes the work carried out from May 1983 up to April


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1984, and this work can be conveniently divided into two parts. The first part was an investigation into experimental


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procedures, including an assessment of methods for measuring currents in shallow water and the establishment of an


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external pumping system to minimise end effects on the model. Following this initial study, a series of experiments


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were carried out to measure the flow conditions around a variety of groyne layouts, including the system at Sea


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Palling which was used for prototype experiments in the Autumn of 1983. This report is produced as an interim report


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on the Phase 2 physical model study programme which it is intended will be completed in 1985.


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This report outlines the findings of an initial investigation into the likely effects of dredging Ballast


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Bank, Portsmouth Harbour, on beach erosion at HMS Dolphin. Previous dredging operations in this area have been followed


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by reduced beach levels at HMS Dolphin, causing damage to the sea wall. There is concern that proposed dredging


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A literature review has been conducted into wave run-up on steep. slopes. Both smooth and armoured slopes have been


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considered, as have both regular and random wave attack. The effects of oblique wave attack have been explored. The


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report considers a number of run-up prediction methods, and contrasts values of relative run-up calculated by different


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methods. The report makes a number of recommendations for further work, and suggests model studies to test various


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HR were commissioned by the Property Services Agency to predict the effects of dredging Ballast Bank in Portsmouth


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Harbour on the stability of the underwater bank protection off HMS Dolphin. HR measures current velocities and


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direction during a period of spring tides on 4 and 5 May 1985. This data, as well as results of previous hydrographic


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surveys, has been used to estimate the effect of the proposed dredging on the velocity profiles adjacent to HMS


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Dolphin. This has given an estimate of the increased bed stresses that may be expected and the increase in the size


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of stone protection necessary to counteract the changes.


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Southern Water Authority are examining possible sites for the sea discharge of sewage from Cowes and its


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neighbourhood. An outfall off Old Castle Point to the east of the Medina river entrance is under consideration. The


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Authority commissioned HR in early 1986 to carry out a series of float tracking exercises and complementary current


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metering over spring and neap tides with the objective of revealing the principal tidal flow characteristics of the


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area. A factual account of the methods employed and the results obtained, is given.


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This report, commissioned by Christchurch Borough council, presents the analysis of beach profiles taken at


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Highcliffe-on-Sea to determine the effectiveness of the artificially nourished shingle beach one year after its


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placement. These initial results are very encouraging based on the volume of nourished material still retained on the


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beach. Little material has been lost from the system overall but a more detailed study shows movement of the shingle in


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both easterly and westerly directions with some indication of onshore/ offshore movement. While it would be premature


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to predict beach performance in the long term, the initial response has been better than expected.


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This report describes a series of hydrographic measurements carried out for Southern Water in the vicinity of a proposed


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sewage outfall in the East Solent. The report contains a factual account of the methods used and the results


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A depth-integrated mathematical model was used to simulate tidal flows in the near coastal region between Portland Bill


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on the west and St Catherine's Point on the east. The model was proved and the results compared in detail with available


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observation and Admiralty data before being transferred on magnetic tape to Wessex Water Authority.


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Although southern England has substantial inland deposits of gravel and sand, the large demand for aggregate and the need


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to conserve agricultural land have increased the pressure to win material from offshore and particular value is placed on


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dredging areas in the English Channel. In 1976 a report by an advisory committee to the Department of the Environment


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recommended that studies should be carried out with the aim of reviewing the existing constraints on marine dredging for


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gravel. Many of the authorities responsible for coast protection and sea defence view the removal of marine


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deposits with concern. This paper therefore reviews at some length the methods used to assess the possible effects of


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offshore dredging on the coastline. Hydraulics Research are retained by the Crown Estate Commissioners to advise them on


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such effects; on the basis of both general experience of coastal processes and more specific research carried out


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into the hydraulic aspects of offshore dredging. The effects on fisheries, navigation and coastal ecology are, however,


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considered by other organisations and are not discussed in this paper.


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The research detailed in this thesis illustrates to the coast protection engineer some of the effects of various


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solutions to coastal engineering problems. The study is based on the analysis of coastal processes and present coast


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protection schemes in Poole and Christchurch Bays, although the conclusions are of more general application. The data


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used is derived from available sources and is supplemented by fieldwork of the author. The limited remote sensing data


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available is utilised to increase the knowledge of the physical processes within the bays. The collection of


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sediment samples and the surveying of beaches and cliffs together with map analysis and aerial photograph


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interpretation, have been used to provide an indication of the present and past status of the coastal system. An


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artificial renourishment scheme conducted in Poole Bay is examined. The scheme has been successful as a coast


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protection measure in providing a beach to protect the backshore. However, the life of the scheme was found to vary


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alongshore, diminishing eastward as longshore drift increases. Depending on the duration and conditions


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experienced during renourishment, this research has shown that the beaches should be "topped-up" approximately every


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seven to eight years. Permeable groynes built on Solent Beach have also proved to be successful, alleviating the


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erosion problems within their vicinity. Analysis of the beach survey data illustrates the movement and accretion of


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material on both sides of the groynes. A combination of coast protection measures in central Christchurch Bay is


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examined. The erosion and evolution of the unprotected frontage between the protected coastlines of Highcliffe and


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Barton are considered in conjunction with the general concepts of log-spiral (crenulate) shaped bay development


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and stability. Finally, the overall effect of coast protection works to littoral drift within the bays is


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appraised. The future requirements for coast protection within Poole and Christchurch Bays are discussed as are the


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In 1976 a report by an advisory committee to the Department of the Environment recommended that further studies should


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be carried out by Hydraulics Research Station aimed at reviewing the existing constraints on marine dredging for


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gravel. This paper deals briefly with the licensing procedure and at some length with the involvement of the


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Hydraulics Research Station in assessing how dredging might affect the coastline. The effect on fisheries, navigation,


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coastal ecology and other interests is considered by other organisations.


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This paper provides observations on the Webber (1979) paper regarding dredging in Chichester Harbour. It examines the


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transport of sediment and the factors responsible for its movement (tidal flow, storms, littoral drift and dredging);


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discusses the erosion of Hayling beaches and gives recommendations for dredging, the monitoring of beaches and


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navigation. The appendices include soundings of the main channel and Winner taken in 1979.


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Most of the report is concerned with the coastline of Hayling Island (east of Portsmouth) as a whole, although


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chapter 7 covers particular areas of concern at Beachcot and Beachlands. The sources of beach material are identified in


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a geological study which is accompanied by appendices on the chronological development of the strata. Development of the


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coast in recent history is then covered, and includes details of coast protection works. An important aspect of


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the report is a study of coastal changes as evidenced by various editions of Ordnance Survey maps, which is reported


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as an analysis of areas of erosion and accretion. The factors responsible for these changes are investigated,


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including studies of wind data from which wave characteristics are predicted and used in refraction


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diagrams. Littoral drift and analyses of shingle at the high water mark are included, and the inter-reactions between all


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are discussed. Recommendations for future work on the subject are given. As to the particular problems, a


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structure at Beachcot has hindered longshore movement to the extent that considerable erosion has occurred downdrift, and


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this has been investigated from O.S. 25 inch maps. A reason for the original recession of the beach is suggested, as are


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possible remedies. A similar situation exists at Beachlands where a newly-constructed surface-water outfall restricts.


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The main problem here, however, is a tendency for the open channel of the outfall to fill with beach material. The


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weather conditions under which the greatest rate of deposition occurs are isolated and hence possible solutions


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This report was commissioned by the Department of the Environment as part of their Planning Research Programme


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1984/1985 in order to provide a sound basis for assessing the potential contribution from marine-dredged sand and


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gravel towards the future demands for aggregate minerals. Four specific objectives are given. To collect and collate


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existing information on the resources and licensed reserves of sand and gravel in the U.K. sector of the continental


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shelf. To identify and analyse the degree to which the resources are constrained by other interests and the factors


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which affect the operations and growth of the marine sand and gravel industry. To define cost-effective research


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proposals which might reduce the constraints on the dredging industry and release additional resources for extraction.


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Finally, to collect and collate existing information on wharves for marine-dredged sand and gravel in order to


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identify the planning issues which arise and the primary factors controlling the selection of sites. The survey


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extends to England, Wales and Scotland and excludes the Channel Islands, Isle of Man and Northern Ireland.


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This report is a purely factual description of the industry giving details of planning, production and administration of


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aggregates; a description of the dredging industry and background information to aggregate quality; dredgers and


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dredging methods and finally, prospecting and reserve management methods. These topics are supported by appendices


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dealing with a list of all wharves receiving marine aggregates; a brief discussion of aggregates from estuarine


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and maintenance dredging; a brief discussion of dredging world-wide; a code of practice agreed between the Crown


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Estate Commissioners and the Sand and Gravel Association, together with the form of a dredging licence; and statistics


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relating to landings of marine aggregates between 1967 and 1984.


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Discusses progress and prospects of the marine mining industry on a global scale. Not specific to the SCOPAC area.


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In this article the current state of the sand and gravel industry and the potential for further expansion are


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examined. These are viewed in the light of the prevailing 'cheap gravel' policy which applies to land-won deposits and


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the various constraint which inhibit further utilisation of existing plant and dredgers.


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This paper deals with the effects of dredging on the topography of the seabed, principally in order to find out


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whether dredging renders an area unsuitable for trawling and/ or seining. In order to do this, it makes use of sector


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scanning sonar which permits the study of the small-scale topography of the sea-bed.


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Up until 1974, sewage sludge from Exeter was dumped approximately 5 miles into Lyme Bay. In 1974 however, the


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Dumping at Sea Act meant that such dumping of sludge has had to be licensed by MAFF and a dumping area was defined in


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Lyme Bay which avoided conflict with local fisheries. This report describes the results and conclusions drawn from 2


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surveys carried out in October 1975 and July 1976. The specific aims of these surveys were 1) to characterise the


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area in physical, chemical and biological terms so as to provide a "bench-mark" against which the results of future


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surveys can be compared 2) to identify the dispersal pathways of dumped waste and its probable fate 3) to


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identify effects on the physical or chemical characteristics of the area attributable to sludge dumping and to define any


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resulting biological affects. Includes discussion of hydrographic characteristics of the dumping area (wind and


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wave data); superficial sediments of Lyme Bay (near-shore and offshore); particle size characteristics of sea bed


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samples; sediment dynamics (bedload transport, near-shore and offshore sediment transport). Concludes that dispersion


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processes are ineffective in preventing accumulations of dumped material in the sediments. Levels of carbon, nitrogen


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and trace metals are significantly elevated in the area most commonly used for dumping. Also, in the zone most


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contaminated by dumping there appeared to be a slight reduction in the number of species present.


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In December 1968, HR were commissioned by the Crown Estate Commissioners to undertake an investigation of shingle


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movement off Worthing. The objective of the study was to obtain, for the first time, quantitative data on the


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mobility of shingle under wave action in water depths of about 10 to 20m. HR is often approached by the Commissioners


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to assess the likely physical consequences on nearby coastlines, that could arise from the commercial dredging of


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offshore banks of gravel and shingle. In these cases, attention is given to two major effects that may occasion


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damage to the shore-line. First, the locally increased depths of the dredged area can alter the angle of incidence


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of waves on to the beaches. Erosion and accretion as the coast re-adjusts to the new wave situation may have adverse


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consequences on amenity. Secondly, removal of offshore shingle may deprive the shore-line of its natural source of


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beach material. It is necessary, therefore, to assess whether the shingle that is to be dredged is moving towards


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the land under the present circumstances of waves and tides. Clearly, if it is not, there is no danger as far as source


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This report describes a study for the Crown Estate Commissioners on the effect of proposed dredging in two


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areas lying south-east of the Isle of Wight. A refraction mathematical model was used to predict wave conditions on


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the Isle of Wight shoreline, and at Selsey Bill on the mainland where erosion is known to have taken place in


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recent years. The model assessed wave conditions during severe storms and then predicted any changes in these


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conditions likely to take place as a result of modifications to the sea bed topography due to dredging.


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Brief comments on coastal erosion occurring at a number of locations along Portsea and Hayling Islands and the Isle of


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Under heavy wave attack, the beach at Chiswell suffered severe erosion for some 48 hours prior to the major flooding


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which occurred on the morning of 13th December 1978. Heavy percolation through the beach was accompanied by overtopping


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of the eroded crest. The weakened beach was very unstable and the formation of a breach with disastrous consequences


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was only narrowly avoided by the abatement of the storm. In attempting to restore the beach to its normal profile and


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levels, it quickly became obvious that there was a lack of beach material available either in bulk or of similar


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grading to the Chiswell material. In the event, the gentler swell waves gradually returned the material swept offshore


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and the swell waves which overtopped the beach in February 1979 probably completely restored the remainder of the


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material. In 1980 Dobbie and Partners suggested that a reservoir of suitable material should be placed on the


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landward slope of the beach and were subsequently commissioned by Wessex Water Authority to investigate


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possible sources of such material. This report summarises the search for suitable material which was carried out along


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the sea bed to the west of Chesil Beach. No material suitable for the replenishment of the beach was found and


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the report concludes that although the investigation cannot be conclusive, it adds weight to the supposition that the


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Chesil Beach consists of a finite quantity of material. The appendices include details of sea bed substrate conditions


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and photographs of characteristic samples.


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Describes research work carried out in 1981 in an area immediately north and east of Yarmouth using side-scan sonar


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and echosounding equipment. Three distinct types of bed pattern were identified as one moves from the shore towards


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mid-Solent and there is a comment that these patterns (waves of different wavelengths and amplitude) are, to some extent,


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independent of changes in underlying topography. There is also a reference to the patterns indicating the direction of


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sediment transport and also to the likelihood that the presence of organic material may have an effect on the


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stability of these patterns. The three distinct pattern zones identified in this study are not related to water


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depth and the comment is made that there is a little comparative data available to enable a firm view to be


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formed about the factors influencing the patterns and movement of sediment.


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Describes a study using side scan sonar and TV mounted on a sledge towed along the sea bed of bottom fauna and bedforms


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in an area of the central English Channel where tidal stream is very strong (i.e. south of Anvil Point). The water depth


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is between 50-55 metres. It is an area where sand is scarce and the underlying bedrock is exposed in places. The study


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was carried out in 1982 and 1984. The study is interesting because the types of fauna present relate directly to the


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stability of the seabed - i.e. certain species only thrive when the bed is non-mobile (bedrock, cables or large


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pebbles), others thrive where there is movement of sand. Thus a study of the fauna gives information about the nature


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of the seabed and its stability. There is reference to the direction of sediment transport in this part of the central


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This paper describes research work done up to and during 1985 in two areas of the English Channel, one south of the


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Isle of Wight and the other south of Anvil Point. It observes the form of the seabed pattern in terms of the


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furrows and sand ribbons present (depending on the quantity of mobile material present and the maximum current speed)


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and their asymmetric form (i.e. the south side of each furrow or sand ribbon having different characteristics from


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the north side). Reference is made to the 'English Channel Bed Load Parting' which is a line between the Cherbourg


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Peninsular and the Isle of Wight to the west of which sediment moves westwards and to the east it moves eastwards.


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Constant reference is made to the scarcity of mobile sediment in the areas studied.


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This report aims to identify those areas of the Hampshire coast which are of nature conservation importance (i.e.


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sites of biological, geological and geomorphological interest) and to indicate what the interest of each site is.


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In addition, certain coastal habitats which are under threat for one reason or another are looked at in more detail, and


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a brief assessment is made of the significance of historical losses of stretches of the coastline.


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Britain's rich heritage of internationally important geological sites is well known to engineers and geologists


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alike, but from time to time, the undertaking of protective works on unstable slopes or cliffs designated as Sites of


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Special Scientific Interest bring conservationists and engineers into conflict. Many classic geological localities


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occur along the coastline of Britain, such as the Jurassic sequences of Dorset, the glacial and interglacial sediments


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of the North Norfolk Coast and the stratotypes of the Hampshire Basin. Unfortunately, many of these coastlines are


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inherently unstable, suffering rates of erosion of up to 2-3m per annum. Where such cliffs occur in close proximity


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to areas of habitation or recreation, there is strong local pressure to find an engineered solution to the problem of


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coastal erosion. Traditionally, such schemes involve the construction of concrete sea walls, cliff grading and cliff


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drainage, leading in some instances to the obliteration of any geological interest which may formerly have existed. The


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Nature Conservancy Council has a direct responsibility to monitor developments which may have an effect on all SSSIs


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and is automatically consulted in the event of an application being made by an individual or local authority


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to undertake coast protection works. It must be said that only a small proportion of the total number of applications


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made are considered to be damaging to the network of SSSIs and in those instances, an attempt is made to negotiate a


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compromise which allows for the coast to be protected from further erosion, whilst safeguarding the scientific


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interest. Case histories will be given to illustrate the range of problems which are posed by engineering works and


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the way in which apparent conflict of interests may be resolved.


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This report has been prepared by the staff of the Southampton University GeoData Unit at the request of the


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Environmental Affairs Department of Shell UK Exploration and Production. It offers a brief appraisal of the present


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status of the coast at the mouth of the Beaulieu Estuary for the Solent Protection Society and on behalf of the area's


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owners and managers (the Beaulieu Manor Estate and the Nature Conservancy Council). The report brings together the


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results of existing research, but does not reflect any new research initiative. It provides a background to the coastal


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evolution of the area in general, and the recent history of the spits and island at the mouth of the Beaulieu in


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particular. The possible impacts of the closure of the Swatchway are introduced, and a schedule for monitoring


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About 200 originals, up to 1974. Some dated, some postcards.


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Describes the current situation at Milford-on-Sea and gives advice on coast protection works.


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The sea wall between Keyhaven and Lymington does not appear to be protecting the coastal area from flooding, records


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indicating flooding in 1875, 1876, 1882, 1912, 1914, 1916, 1935 and 1954. Southern Water Authority, being the


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responsible authority, proposed a plan for reconstruction of the sea wall but because of the important environmental and


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recreational aspects involved, the County Council wished to evaluate the reconstruction proposal and its impact on the


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area more thoroughly. The County Council's main concern is to ensure that the environmental impact of any


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reconstruction scheme for the sea wall is minimal and that any such proposals take full account of the special character


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and sensitive nature of the area. For this reason, Oranjewoud were appointed as consultants to evaluate the SWA


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proposal and assess alternative plans. This report summarises their findings.


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This report is a summary of an inspection of the present condition (in 1936) of the Christchurch foreshore, harbour


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outlet and cliffs. Different aspects of the problem are considered under the following headings: (1) The formation


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of the coast in the neighbourhood and its general bearing upon the erosion problem. (2) The progress of the erosion in


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the past and its bearing upon the present problem. (3) Some general remarks on the method of transport by the sea of


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materials forming foreshores. (4) The littoral drift and sources of material forming the foreshore. (5) Tides, tidal


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and wind formed currents, as they bear upon the problem. (6) The probable effect of works in the Bournemouth Bay upon


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littoral drift and of the proposed breakwater at Hengistbury Head. (7) The training wall proposed by the Avon and Stour


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Catchment Board - its probable effect upon "Run", its effect upon the erosion of the cliffs and the design of a training


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wall and its stability. (8) Possible works to combat erosion at Highcliffe.


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Examination of the present state of the cliffs and beach at Highcliffe. Proposals for works and estimated costs.


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This research project was originally orientated towards monitoring three projects - a beach nourishment scheme at


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Bournemouth in Poole Bay, some permeable groynes at Solent Road at the extreme eastern limit of the Bournemouth


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frontage, and two rock bastions near Highcliffe in Christchurch Bay. The report describes the research


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monitoring contracts which were carried out (hydrographic and topographic surveying; aerial photographs and project


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film); wave recording and analysis; the sand nourishment scheme at Bournemouth; the beach process research and


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finally, the bastion schemes in Christchurch Bay.


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Brief report on proposed coastal protection works at Barton.


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Gives details of the geology and topography of the cliffs and summarises the design and construction of the works.


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In the summer of 1965, the coastal section from Christchurch to Calshot was selected for detailed study. This report is


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the result of this survey and is divided into two parts, the first summarises the analytical description of the survey


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and includes conclusions and recommendations, the second gives in a separate document, the full account of the


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This report is based upon a literature survey into the use of scrap tyres as a means of low cost shore protection. The


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authors find that rubber tyres can be used successfully as floating breakwaters, in sheltered waters. However they are


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not suited for an open sea environment. In the USA rubber tyre structures situated on or close to the shoreline have


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not been particularly successful in halting erosion, even under moderate to low energy conditions. They are even less


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likely to be effective on the open coast of the UK. This the first of a series of reports on low cost shore protection


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methods, was produced for the Water Directorate of the Department of the Environment.


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List of references to work carried out in U.K. estuaries in papers, report etc published before June 1975.


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The Bracklesham Formation occurs throughout the Hampshire Basin of southern England. The basin is elongated E-W and


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filled with Lower Tertiary sediments. Its southern margin is marked by either large northward-facing monoclines, or


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faults, both of which underwent differential movement, with uplift of the southern side throughout the Middle Eocene.


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The Bracklesham Formation, which is up to 240m thick, shows pronounced lateral facies changes with dominantly marine


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sediments in the east passing to alluvial sediments in the west. Four principal sedimentary environments: marine,


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lagoonal, estuarine and alluvial are distinguished. The Formation is strongly cyclic and was deposited during five


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Experiments have been conducted at the Christchurch Bay wave tower as part of a general programme of research in the


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fluid loading of offshore structures funded by the Department of Energy. The work has investigated the wave


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loadings on clean vertical cylinders in real sea conditions and measured particle kinematics at various depth stations


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using perforated ball instruments. Spectral analyses have been carried out on the wave forces and particle kinematics.


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Analyses have also been carried out to investigate the quality of prediction of individual wave peak values of


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forces and particle kinematics. Detailed measurements have been made of tidal currents at the location of the tower.


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The objectives were to calibrate predictions of current and tide height and also to evolve a method of correcting the


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zero readings of various transducers. Detailed results from all the above investigations are presented in a separate


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The Christchurch Bay wave tower is a small offshore structure designed specifically for research into wave


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forces and gravity foundations. This paper discusses features of wave force experiments in the sea and notes the


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attributes and problems in comparison with similar experiments in the laboratory. Some results are then


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presented from various types of analysis of the measured data.


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Description of the second Christchurch Bay wave tower of the NMI, including a detailed drawing of the tower and its


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The Christchurch Bay wave tower is a small offshore structure designed specifically for research on wave forces


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and gravity foundations. This report describes the purposes and design of the wave force experiment. The evolution of


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the data analysis strategy leads to the definition of the major measurement parameters and a discussion follows on


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methods of achieving confidence in the measured data. The report concludes with a section on the flow and force


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regimes of the various structure components in the range of sea states likely to be experienced.


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Gives a general view of the state of the art of ocean instrumentation with examples of the problems and the way in


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which these may be tackled. Details provided on the Christchurch Bay Wave Tower.


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Measured wave force data from the Christchurch Bay wave tower have been analysed by a technique in which the data


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are fitted to an equation relating mean square force to particle motion parameters. The total data are divided into


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small samples for the derivation of mean square parameters. The sample duration has been varied to study its effect on


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The purpose of the Christchurch Bay wave tower is to provide data on critical elements of wave force prediction methods


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e.g. force coefficients, and then go on to determine the validity of the complete prediction method. To do this


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effectively means acquiring data in real sea conditions and at a suitably large scale. This paper lists some important


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assumptions which need to be made by the designer and then goes on to demonstrate, by the results obtained so far,


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where the validity of the assumptions is being justified or where the issues are becoming clarified. Some new or


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modified prediction methods are likely to emanate from the project.


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This report describes a wave-by-wave analysis of data from the Christchurch Bay wave force experiment. 16-second


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samples of data were selected for analysis from 2 runs recorded during a storm in September 1976. A least squares


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fitting technique is used. Morison's equation is fitted to the measured in-line force history and Cm, Cd force


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coefficients are derived. Results are related to several parameters including the Zeulegan-Carpenter number and the


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relative error in the fitted force. The results are generally consistent with each other and with results of the


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The seabed off Hengistbury Head was examined by SCUBA diving. The area is dominated by Christchurch Ledge, a hard


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ironstone reef extending underwater some 5km, south-west from Hengistbury Head. It separates the relatively shallow


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Poole and Christchurch Bays. Poole Bay is less than 20m deep with a sand bottom. Christchurch Bay is shallower, less than


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10m deep, sand inshore and bounded by gravel offshore. Small clay outcrops occur parallel with the shore off Southbourne


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and Barton. Some fine muds and silts collect at the western base of the Christchurch Ledge. The main habitats described


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are: sand, gravel, ironstone boulder and clay. Comparison is made with the area between the east Solent and Selsey Bill,


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surveyed by the authors in 1983. A number of similar habitats and species are found. Differences are attributed


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to the presence of limestone outcrops and more silt in the latter area. Interests and activities within the area are


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reviewed, particular attention being paid to coastal protection works. Other activities noted are sewage


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dispersal, hydrocarbon exploitation, fishing, tourism and water sports. It is concluded that Christchurch Ledge has a


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rich and diverse marine flora and fauna and should be considered as the seaward extension of the already


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scientifically recognised area enclosing Christchurch Harbour and Hengistbury Head. Further work is recommended.


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Southern Water use computer models in order to appraise sea outfalls and the discharge of effluent. This paper describes


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the outfall study undertaken in the Solent and including Southampton Water, Portsmouth, Langstone and Chichester


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Harbours. These waters have complicated tidal currents which need to be understood if outfalls are to be located in the


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best position to avoid beach pollution. The objectives of this particular study were: 1) to investigate alternative


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treatment options and discharge locations for new outfalls from Portsmouth and Cowes; 2) to investigate the aggregate


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effects of all existing and proposed outfalls discharging more than  1Ml/day; 3) to investigate the alternative


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treatment works at Peel Common, discharging via a relatively short outfall. The computer model is based on a map of


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seabed topography. Tidal levels on the boundary of the model were specified over a tidal cycle and the model calculates


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for the grid points the depth of water, current velocity and direction. These were checked against observed values and


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the model was found to reproduce the tidal flow patterns well. The predictions for the Solent outfalls are described.


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This report has been prepared following a study carried out jointly by a group of councillors from HCC and NFDC between


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January 1980 and November 1981. It represents a strategy for the protection and management of the area, while meeting the


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needs of all those who enjoy or use the marshes. It describes the landscape, biology and history of the area;


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gives objectives for the future and lists the proposals on sea defences, dredging, sailing and recreation and


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Bournemouth's coastline has suffered badly from the ravages of waves and weather, the loss of sand from the beach


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finally reaching a critical level. Bournemouth Council is counteracting this by replacing the beach with a coarser


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Brief report on the coastal erosion problems created at Bracklesham, East and West Wittering due to the installation


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Severe erosion problems at East Head in the summer of 1975 caused the National Trust to take defensive action. Their


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solution to the problem was to build a line of "soldiers" - individual posts with gaps between them in a row parallel to


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the edge of the beach. These break the force of the waves causing them to drop their load of sand and shingle which


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are then partly obstructed from returning by the posts themselves. The value of using permeable rather than solid


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Newspaper reporting that more than œ1m is to be spent by the Southern Water Authority in a bid to protect vulnerable


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seafront areas at Selsey and Bracklesham Bay.


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A hitherto undetected normal fault explains several anomalies in the complicated geology around Osmington Mills,


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including the origin of the 'mud glaciers'. The Angular Flint Gravel is shown to be a weathered form of the


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In past literature, beach cusps have always been dealt with qualitatively in certain aspects. These are that cusps are


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regularly occurring features and that there is a definite degree of sorting between cusp and bay pebbles. This


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fieldwork attempts to show that both the degree of sorting and the regularity of spacing are measurable quantitatively.


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Although the amount of data is small, it does not bear out the hypothesis that cusp spacing has a simple regularity.


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Pebble sorting was observed between cusps and bays, but long-shore and intra-cusp comparisons proved impossible as


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the statistical evidence failed to show that pebbles from adjacent cusps are from the same population.


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The stratigraphy, palaeontology and sedimentology of the Wealden Group has been studied in order to determine the


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depositional environment. The sections have been revised and described, and the stratigraphical terminology updated. Two


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formations are recognised, the Wessex Formation and the overlying Vectis Formation. The palaeontology of the Wealden


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Group is reviewed, including the trace fossil Ophiomorpha. The Wessex Formation comprises a sequence of thick


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varicoloured mudstones with subordinate sandstones, a common wood debris, vertebrate remains and occasional unionid


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bivalves. Four facies associations are recognised.


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The paper describes two fundamental aspects of mobile beach management, the analysis of periodic surveys to determine


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trends in beach movement along extensive coastlines and the carrying out of shingle recharge schemes. The monitoring


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system comprises the annual aerial beach survey along 356km of coastline of SE England covering frontages from the Isle


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of Wight to the Thames estuary. The use of routine stereoscopic survey and photogrammetric levelling techniques


refAbstractLine:
have been incorporated into computerised systems capable of calculating changes in sediment movement through the regular


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monitoring of beach profiles. Examples depict the variability of sediment movement caused by littoral


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processes, and changes in the distribution of beach material between the head and foot of foreshores are illustrated. The


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potential of the system as a design aid for capital works and long term maintenance planning is also reviewed. Shingle


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recharge has been used in Kent and Sussex for nearly 30 years. The problems posed by and the solutions adopted for


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two early schemes and two recent schemes are explained, the latter involving the dredging of shingle from the sea bed


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and depositing it directly on the foreshore at high tide.


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The continental shelf to the SW of the British Isles is an area of intense tidal current activity. Although most of the


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sediment is coarse, it still contains a small proportion of fine (less than 63 micrometre) material, consisting mainly


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of biogenic debris. Coccoliths in particular are both common and widespread and they are found in the adjacent slope


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sediments. The results presented here show that coccolithophorid diversity is high in the deeper parts of


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Whittard Canyon, the abyssal plain, and on a small area of shelf. Diversity decreases away from the ocean towards the


refAbstractLine:
land. Coccoliths and coccospheres have also been recorded from surface water samples. Apart from the landward movement


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of oceanic water shown by the coccolithophorids, movement of material on the bottom from shelf to slope is shown by the


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distribution of benthic diatom frustules and mollusc shell chips cut by clionid sponges. Thus, a study of the fine


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sediment reveals details of sediment transport and water movement.


refAbstractLine:
Report mainly concerning problem areas and including short descriptions of current protection works, a brief history of


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the coastline, a summary of the forms and causes of erosion and aggradation along it, and notes on saline intrusion of


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the Chalk aquifer, and problems associated with the gravel industry.


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Examines management problems of the coastal and maritime environment related to navigation and pollution,


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environmental conservation, recreation and tourism, and various French and British policies and organisations


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The Lower Headon and Upper Barton Beds of Hampshire consist of fine sands, silts and clays, often fossiliferous, with


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lignitic and carbonate horizons. They accumulated in a coastal environment following deposition of the marine Lower


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and Middle Barton Beds. A variety of distinctive facies can be defined on faunal and lithological grounds and these


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permit palaeoenvironments to be defined with some precision. Littoral marine, barrier island shoreface, storm washover


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and barrier flat. brackish lagoon, distributary channel and floodplain lake environments are recognised.


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This article has catalogued a range of stresses, both naturally and anthropologically generated, which effect


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Chesil Beach. These include the extraction of beach material for construction purposes, recreational pressures etc. In


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spite of its size, Chesil Beach may well be at a comparatively late stage in its evolution so that some help


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is required to retain it as a viable entity irrespective of whether it is considered in economic, sociological,


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engineering or educational terms. The fact that Chesil Beach has been in more or less its present form for so long may


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delude people into believing it will remain so. Most difficulties are general rather than specific. Both at


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Chesil and elsewhere, the range and multiplicity of pressures is increased by the economic and technological


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progress of the country as a whole. The type of 'threat' may change but problems are unlikely to disappear. Chesil, in


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common with other features of national and international repute, needs the maximum practical protection available.


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Finite element results obtained with the implicit Wave Equation algorithm are compared with field data in a blind


refAbstractLine:
(uncalibrated) verification exercise. The study area comprises the English Channel and the southern North Sea.


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Current coast protection policy may be producing schemes which are socially, economically and environmentally


refAbstractLine:
undesirable. The author uses a social cost-benefit analysis to evaluate the works at Barton-on-Sea and also considers


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the environmental impact: some important implications emerge.


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Measurements of near-bed velocity profiles and bottom roughness in tidal currents flowing over sandy gravels in


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the west Solent have shown that, although the seabed in the immediate vicinity of the study area was generally level and


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devoid of regular bed forms, the observed velocity profiles were consistently curved concave downwards. This behaviour


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may be attributed to the presence of an internal boundary layer which was due to form drag on irregular topography


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upstream of the measurement position. Loosely packed gravels of the type found in the west Solent has a geometric mean


refAbstractLine:
roughness length of about 0.3 cm. Comparison of the observed ratio of roughness length to mean particle size with


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laboratory data, suggests an equivalent two-dimensional roughness element spacing of about three particle diameters.


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In contrast to tidal flows over rippled sand beds, the roughness length for sandy gravels remained relatively


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constant throughout the tidal cycle. Furthermore, these measurements provided no systematic evidence of the effects


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of flow acceleration on profile-derived estimates of the friction velocity and the roughness length.


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Recent improvements in biostratigraphic and magnetostratigraphic control in the Eocene sediments of the


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Hampshire Basin prompted direct comparison of depositional sequences in outcrop with those predicted by the latest and


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most detailed Exxon coastal onlap chart. This study focused on the upper two cycles of the London Clay Formation, the


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Bracklesham Group and the Barton Formation, comprising nine depositional sequences, each a few 10s of metres thick. The


refAbstractLine:
sediments were divided into three basic facies associations: marine, estuarine and alluvial. Depositional sequences


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invariably rest on a regional erosion surface cut during sea-level lowstand. The lower part of each sequence consists


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typically of 'estuarine' sediments (including tidal channel, lagoon, tidal flat, and marsh deposits), laid down under


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brackish conditions during the early stages of sea-level rise. Estuarine deposits are typically erosively overlain by


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marine shoreface or shelf deposits; the eroded, pebble-strewn contact marks the passage of the marine


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shoreface. Marine deposits may be erosively overlain by alluvial sediments that record coastal progradation in


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response to stable or slowly falling sea level. Magnetostratigraphy, in the form of truncated or absent


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magnetozones provides supporting evidence for significant erosion during periods of lowstand. Every sequence can be


refAbstractLine:
matched to the Exxon coastal onlap chart, with one exception, which, on biostratigraphic and


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magnetostratigraphic evidence has been shown to be absent from the Hampshire Basin. The Exxon chart suggests that in


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this exceptional instance, coastal onlap was insufficient to effect marine deposition in the Hampshire Basin.


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An intercomparison between acoustic and visual estimates of sediment transport rates is presented. Specifically two


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hydrophones were mounted at 24 cm above a seabed composed of gravel. These were used to passively monitor the movement of


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bedload material by measuring the acoustic intensity, generated due to the collision of moving gravel particles


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with one another and the bed. Simultaneous underwater TV observations were conducted by directing a low-light camera,


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fixed at 50 cm above the bed, on to the area of seabed directly below the hydrophones. The TV data has been used as


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a coarse reference scale to which the performance of the acoustic system could be compared. High temporal resolution


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estimated of mass transport rates were derived from the visual and acoustic data. The similarity of these two


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measurement sets has been examined. The results show that the measurement of gravel movement by acoustic monitoring is


refAbstractLine:
In many engineering and sedimentological applications, it is usual to relate sediment movement to the time-averaged bed


refAbstractLine:
shear stress. However, the shear stress exerted on the sea bed by tidal currents is intermittent in nature due to the


refAbstractLine:
turbulent bursting phenomenon. Sediment movement at the sea bed also occurs in bursts. However, attempts to link these


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two processes have failed because of the poor temporal resolution of existing sediment-transport measurement


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techniques. Recent experimental advances now make this possible and we describe here the first detailed


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observations of sediment movement and fluid turbulence in tidal currents flowing over sandy gravels. These results


refAbstractLine:
show that high stress values are a necessary, but not sufficient, condition for bed-load sediment movement and


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that form drag on individual particles may have greater dynamical significance than the stress. This work also


refAbstractLine:
suggest that it may now be possible to describe sediment movement at a level which is deterministic in terms of the


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turbulence and at very much shorter timescales than have been made previously.


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Recent work at three contrasting sites in England and Wales has shown characteristics atypical of those frequently


refAbstractLine:
reported elsewhere. These differences are: (a) Taking each entire beach system there is no uniform trend of erosion or


refAbstractLine:
accretion, nor a progressive variation in beach elevation or volume alongshore, from one survey to the next. However, for


refAbstractLine:
Swansea Bay the 'long-term' range in profile height along that stretch of coast where the alignment of the beach is


refAbstractLine:
normal to the direction of wave approach, correlates well with computed wave energy derived from relevant offshore


refAbstractLine:
wave direction. (b) While beach variability is greatest during the 'winter' (i.e. storm) period there is no overall


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tendency for a drawdown of sediment from the intertidal zone at that time. Response times are relatively short. Thus high


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beach levels need not necessarily be associated with 'summer' conditions. (c) Although in Swansea Bay there is a


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tendency for the beach height to fluctuate least at mid-tide level this is not true of the other two sites. In no area


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does sediment eroded from the upper exposed part of the beach regularly appear to be deposited on the lower exposed


refAbstractLine:
The general tidal characteristics in the neighbourhood of a promontory are derived using a numerical model developed in


refAbstractLine:
plane polar co-ordinates. These same tidal features are found for a model of the tides off the Start Point promontory


refAbstractLine:
using a Cartesian reference frame. It is shown that promontories are characterised by strong tidal flows and it


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is suggested that vorticity generated near the headland plays a key role in the dynamics of offshore tidal bank


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The part of the continental terrace stretching along a 250 km axis from the Western English Channel to the shelf edge


refAbstractLine:
is covered by a blanket of sediments ranging from fine sands to pebbles. Three terrigenous fringing areas are of


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Pleistocene origin: the periarmorican pebbly strip and the quartzitic sands located off Devon-Cornwall and near the


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shelf edge. The remainder is composed preponderantly of bioclastic sands, deposited through the Holocene and up to


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the present. The tidal currents, occasionally augmented by storm-induced oscillatory water movements, exert the main


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control on the distribution of the sediments. An evolutionary model starting from the Wurmian low sea-level


refAbstractLine:
environment is proposed. It takes into account the specificity of the great sand-bank area in the south-west


refAbstractLine:
which was submerged whilst, onshore, subaerial and periglacial conditions led to the deposition of pebbles and,


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to a minor extent, of detritic sands south of England. The progression of the Holocene transgression triggered the


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productivity of the epifauna on the submerged, hard floor zones and modified the hydrodynamic conditions which, in


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turn, reacted upon the distribution of the organogenic debris. The velocity of the tidal currents is maximum (over


refAbstractLine:
2 knots) around Brittany, keeping the pebbly area generally free of sedimentation of smaller particles. The distribution


refAbstractLine:
pattern of the bioclastic fraction (concerning mainly Bryozoa) enables one to consider a general axial


refAbstractLine:
transportation trending towards the south-west which is corroborated by previous studies dealing with small-scale


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The distribution and age structure of colonies of the hard-shell clam, Mercenaria mercenaria were investigated


refAbstractLine:
throughout Southampton Water. Records of natural occurrences and introductions elsewhere have been brought up to date.


refAbstractLine:
There was no evidence that the clam is extending its range within or without Southampton Water; the 1971 distribution


refAbstractLine:
is substantially that found in 1961. Growth, determined by back-measurement and the Walford transformation and


refAbstractLine:
expressed as an annual shell increment, declined with distance up Southampton Water although this was partially


refAbstractLine:
offset at the outfall of Marchwood Power Station. The relationship between substrate, growth and abundance is


refAbstractLine:
discussed; the requirements of setting larvae and of growing adults appeared to be mutually antagonistic. Clams around


refAbstractLine:
Marchwood outfall appeared to breed successfully each season, but at the lower end of Southampton Water very few


refAbstractLine:
year-classes were represented. It is probable that the high number of year-classes comprising the Lee-on-Solent


refAbstractLine:
population indicated a self-perpetuating colony.


refAbstractLine:
This report includes a general survey of the nature of the intertidal zone, the conditions to which it is exposed and a


refAbstractLine:
description of the fauna and flora of sediment shores. It covers geology and geomorphology; existing knowledge and


refAbstractLine:
conservation status; hydrography and climate; occurrence and distribution of species; usage of the coastline; biological


refAbstractLine:
description of the intertidal area and a description of sites of marine biological importance.


refAbstractLine:
Hurst Spit, the intertidal zone extending north-eastwards to the Lymington estuary and beyond to Thorns Beach, together


refAbstractLine:
with the brackish grazings derived from old salterns between Lymington and Keyhaven, combine to form an ecological system


refAbstractLine:
of great scientific and aesthetic value. The area considered in this report is similar to that notified by the NCC to the


refAbstractLine:
Local Planning Authority as an SSSI, though there are minor differences. The purposes of the report are to identify the


refAbstractLine:
physical and biological characteristics of the area, to establish its relative scientific importance and to make


refAbstractLine:
proposals for safeguarding and managing it.


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This report is intended as the NCC's initial contribution to the Portsmouth Harbour Local Plan. Its purpose is to


refAbstractLine:
describe the biological characteristics and relative significance of the harbour and identify the nature


refAbstractLine:
conservation constraints on management and development which the NCC would wish to see imposed within the SSSI.


refAbstractLine:
The survey was carried out in January-March 1977. It describes the ecological characteristics of the estuary and


refAbstractLine:
identifies nature conservation objectives as a contribution to future planning and management.


refAbstractLine:
Tabulates the results of an ecological survey carried out in Thorney Channel in 1977. Provides species lists.


refAbstractLine:
There is a marked contrast between south-east and central southern England in the wholesale siltation or survival of


refAbstractLine:
inlets, and in the fineness of sediments being deposited. It is suggested that these two differences result from a third,


refAbstractLine:
the relative speeds of tidal inflow and outflow. Other explanations are examined and rejected. This tidal


refAbstractLine:
deposition of sandy or muddy sediments within inlets is distinct from the wave-induced movement of shingle across


refAbstractLine:
It has been recognised that seaweed (apart from its ecological importance) also plays a role in the supply of


refAbstractLine:
beach shingle; hitherto, however, the idea has made little impact. Reasons for this include the difficulty of making


refAbstractLine:
observations underwater at those times when the process operates, and because the process operates only


refAbstractLine:
intermittently. The paper first discusses firsthand field evidence which suggests that seaweed plays a major role in


refAbstractLine:
coastal dynamics. The process has been observed to operate to a depth of at least 25m. Moreover, the indications are


refAbstractLine:
that in those areas investigated by the authors it may constitute a major contemporary source of beach shingle. The


refAbstractLine:
paper discusses the types of weed involved in shingle transport, its seasonal succession, the mechanics of


refAbstractLine:
transport, and various underwater shingle formations thus produced. An attempt is made to estimate the quantitative


refAbstractLine:
significance of weed-assisted transport in selected localities, and to speculate on the significance of these


refAbstractLine:
quantities in terms of total sediment budget. Finally, it is suggested that valuable contributions could be made by all


refAbstractLine:
divers in further studies of this and related aspects of sub-littoral weed areas.


refAbstractLine:
Exposures of London Clay and associated rocks around Chichester Harbour are restricted by extensive superficial


refAbstractLine:
deposits to tidally dependent foreshore localities which are all too often obscured by alluvium, mud or saltmarsh.


refAbstractLine:
Descriptions of these scattered exposures are given with faunal lists together with consideration of recent


refAbstractLine:
stratigraphical correlations. Informal names are proposed for some of the horizons to aid future reference to these


refAbstractLine:
Tidal elevation data are presented for places along the length of the Fleet, a tidal lagoon behind Chesil Beach.


refAbstractLine:
Harmonic analysis of the data is not able to represent the observations adequately, particularly at the inner end of


refAbstractLine:
the lagoon. However, careful inspection of the data shows that the tidal regime is capable of being understood in


refAbstractLine:
terms of the non-linear propagation of long waves in very shallow water. Distortion of the tidal wave by unequal


refAbstractLine:
progression speeds of high and low water, and the set-up of mean level by frictional effects, are shown to be the


refAbstractLine:
important physical mechanics controlling the observed water level fluctuations. A one-dimensional numerical model which


refAbstractLine:
incorporates these processes is able to reproduce the observations satisfactorily. Whilst the model predicts


refAbstractLine:
strong effects of wind stress, the meteorological influences in the observed data appear to be largely due to external


refAbstractLine:
surges in the English Channel which propagate into the lagoon through its entrance.


refAbstractLine:
This report considers the application to the Crown Estate Commissioners for consent to the removal of 500,000 tons per


refAbstractLine:
annum of sand and gravel from the sea bed at seven sites between Sandown Bay and Worthing. It describes the potential


refAbstractLine:
dredging sites, the length of coastline adjoining this area of the Channel, littoral drift, the sources of shingle and


refAbstractLine:
The aim of this report is to establish the pattern of natural sediment movements in the vicinity of Wootton Creek


refAbstractLine:
and to determine whether Sealink's proposal to dredge the Creek will have any serious effect on the local beaches.


refAbstractLine:
Sealink UK Ltd propose to introduce new and larger ships on the Portsmouth to Fishbourne car ferry service. The


refAbstractLine:
proposals include the construction of a new terminal at Fishbourne and associated dredging in Wootton Creek. The


refAbstractLine:
Hydraulics Research Station was asked to recommend any investigations needed to establish the facts of the case and


refAbstractLine:
to advise on the effects, if any, of Sealink's proposals on erosion of the shoreline in the entrance to Wootton Creek.


refAbstractLine:
This report summarises their findings and concludes that there appears to be no evidence that points to a connection


refAbstractLine:
between land recession and operation of the present ferries. In addition, the report suggests that operation of the


refAbstractLine:
proposed, larger vessels in the enlarged approach channel is likely to cause less disturbance by wave action and blockage


refAbstractLine:
effect than the present vessels. A survey map of Wootton Creek and velocity and flow direction data are included.


refAbstractLine:
A study of the changing geomorphology and ecology of the South Haven Peninsular.


refAbstractLine:
A brief account is given of the history and physiography (including recent changes) of the dune system of South Haven


refAbstractLine:
Peninsular, Studland Heath. The changes in soil pH and organic content are correlated with the characteristic plant


refAbstractLine:
succession and the historical data. The dune-building sand has a very low calcium-carbonate content (about 0.015%):


refAbstractLine:
initially the dunes are dominated by Agropyron and Ammophila, have a surface reaction near pH 7 and an organic


refAbstractLine:
content of about 0.2%, but after about 240 years they tend to an apparently fairly stable dry Calluna heath with a


refAbstractLine:
characteristic surface pH of 3.8-4.4 and a mean organic content of about 13%. The succession is compared with those


refAbstractLine:
of other dune systems of comparable age (Blakeney Point, Norfolk and Southport, Lancashire) which are derived from


refAbstractLine:
more calcareous sands, and the inter-relationships of soil pH, organic content and calcium carbonate are briefly


refAbstractLine:
This paper provides comments on the study by Wheeler (1979). It gives a description of the length of coastline concerned


refAbstractLine:
and an appraisal of the problem of coastal erosion. Recommendations for methods of coastal protection are


refAbstractLine:
offered and it is suggested that consideration should be given to beach nourishment. This would not be the most


refAbstractLine:
economical solution but environmentally and aesthetically, is much more acceptable than other methods.


refAbstractLine:
This report is concerned with the coastline at Hook near Warsash and deals in particular with the erosion process


refAbstractLine:
which occurs at Solent Breezes Caravan Site. The geological history of the area and how the coastline has evolved is


refAbstractLine:
outlined in order to identify sources of beach materials. The topographical changes are dealt with by comparison of


refAbstractLine:
various editions of Ordnance Survey maps as well as other surveys available and areas of erosion and accretion are


refAbstractLine:
identified. Factors responsible for these changes are investigated including waves, sediment movement and tidal


refAbstractLine:
behaviour for the area. Littoral drift has been assessed. Particular problems at Solent Breezes, such as the effect of


refAbstractLine:
the construction of the slip-way for boats and the sheet piling as sea defence on the natural development of the


refAbstractLine:
beach are discussed. The interruption to longshore movement by such structures and how downdrift erosion is caused are


refAbstractLine:
also outlined. A monitoring system by means of permanent markers has been set up in order that changes in beach


refAbstractLine:
profile may be observed in the future and a section of this report gives details of the system and survey methods


refAbstractLine:
adopted. Finally, recommendations for future research and possible coastal protection measures necessary are made.


refAbstractLine:
A summary of the papers published by Diver on the South Haven Peninsular since 1931, dealing with the ecology and


refAbstractLine:
This report gives the results of a survey carried out in order to inspect the condition of river bank structures


refAbstractLine:
along the Itchen. The inspections carried out noted the type of structure, if any, presently affording protection to the


refAbstractLine:
banks and the presence of any structural failure. If failure was detected, suitable remedial works are listed.


refAbstractLine:
Part 1 of this report is concerned with the Heritage Coast Experiment. Chapter 1 gives the general background to the


refAbstractLine:
development of Heritage Coast management on a national basis. Chapter 2 is a report on the experimental Heritage


refAbstractLine:
Coast project in Dorset. Chapters 3 and 4 give a brief outline of the area and the existing planning policies which


refAbstractLine:
cover it. These form an introduction to Chapter 5 which sets out, for discussion, a series of proposed policies and


refAbstractLine:
suggestions which could form the basis for a Purbeck Heritage Coast Plan.


refAbstractLine:
Since the early 1940's, Christchurch Borough Council has been building groynes to safeguard its beaches and has


refAbstractLine:
experienced most of the design, operational and maintenance problems common in this field. Most of the groynes have been


refAbstractLine:
of a relatively conventional design; that is, impermeable, vertical barrier type structures built normal to the


refAbstractLine:
shoreline, in timber or steel and timber. In recent years, however, circumstances have led to the construction of a


refAbstractLine:
number of rubber groynes and enough of these now exist for an assessment to be made of their performance. This paper


refAbstractLine:
sets out the council's experience in these structures.


refAbstractLine:
This is a brief note on a meteorological 'event' that resulted in some exceptional surge and sea state conditions


refAbstractLine:
in the Solent area. On 14th October 1976, an intense depression moved north-eastward across southern England from


refAbstractLine:
the Atlantic. It was associated with a rapid lowering of barometric pressure and gale force winds. The magnitude of


refAbstractLine:
the resulting surge was about 1m which is very large for this part of the English Channel. The effect was most


refAbstractLine:
pronounced in the Poole/ Christchurch Bay area since tidal ranges here are relatively small. At Bournemouth, the tidal


refAbstractLine:
level remained at between 1.18 and 1.28m above ODN for the remarkable period of over 6 hours. Wave action was very


refAbstractLine:
severe and in Poole Bay maximum wave heights of 8.3m were recorded. This is the highest wave recorded in nearly 2.5


refAbstractLine:
years of wave measurement at this site. Considerable erosion was caused to some of the unprotected cliffs along the


refAbstractLine:
Poole/ Christchurch Bay shoreline and two test rigs in Christchurch Bay suffered severe damage. There was some


refAbstractLine:
flooding near the eastern end of Hayling Island. The likelihood of recurrence of this type of event is discussed.


refAbstractLine:
As a result of the investigation of data carried out in this report, the general trend of material movement is to


refAbstractLine:
increase in volume with a marked increase in the rate of accretion in the south-western sector of the area under


refAbstractLine:
analysis in the region of the East Winner. The visual analysis shows a progression from the East Winner in this


refAbstractLine:
region by means of the exposed area at low water, progressing southwards. The indication from the total volume


refAbstractLine:
graphs shows a linear increase in volume over the period 1896 to 1955. Future work could entail a more detailed


refAbstractLine:
analysis of records leading to computation of the volumes of charts of the intervening years to either confirm or reject


refAbstractLine:
this linear trend. The analysis of the 1965 chart together with future surveys covering the entire area of analysis may


refAbstractLine:
have indicated a peak to the increase in volume as the tentative value for the 1976 chart shows a reduction in


refAbstractLine:
volume. This value however, was based on only a 60% cover of the area by the survey. Future surveys should cover the


refAbstractLine:
channels leading to Langstone Harbour and a more detailed survey of the East Winner undertaken by sounding, preferably


refAbstractLine:
at the southern end of the area. Combined with a land survey technique, a survey of the northern extremity of the Winner


refAbstractLine:
at periods of Low Water. From these two methods an extent of the deep-water channels may be determined. The analysis of


refAbstractLine:
the volumetric and visual investigation of material movement at the West Pole Sands Zone shows a retreat of the exposed


refAbstractLine:
area at Low Water and a slow erosion of material, based on the total volume computations. Thus from the level


refAbstractLine:
variation, a progressive decrease in level in this zone compared with the increase in level in the Western Zone may


refAbstractLine:
indicate a trend. An analysis of currents, velocities and direction combined with an analysis of bed material may


refAbstractLine:
compound these results into a definite acceptable hypothesis of movement of the bed load of the Bay. A finer detail


refAbstractLine:
analysis of the computations should be obtained. This may be achieved by taking the half-metre contours area for each and


refAbstractLine:
every-one of the available charts in computing the volumetric quantities for each sector of the grid when


refAbstractLine:
undertaking an investigation. Based on these finer computed results a conferment or rejection of the conclusions of this


refAbstractLine:
report, based on limited information, may be made. From the results in the total computations for material volume within


refAbstractLine:
the parameters, an indication of a sudden increase and decrease over the period 1842-1896 occurred. This may be due


refAbstractLine:
to either unnatural weather conditions e.g. storms etc., or for an unforeseen occurrence. Thus the research into the


refAbstractLine:
history of excessive high tides, storms etc. and a comparison of such with the sudden changes in volume may be


refAbstractLine:
The harnessing of wave energy is being studied in the U.K. and coastal sites are worthy of consideration. Since June


refAbstractLine:
1974, waves have been recorded at Poole Bay. The wave power available during 1975-77 was assessed. A hindcasting


refAbstractLine:
technique was used to fill the inevitable gaps in wave recordings and improve the quality of the data. The


refAbstractLine:
variation of wave power availability is considerable and the implications are discussed. Compared with the Atlantic


refAbstractLine:
coastline, the average power available is disappointingly low - only 2 kW/m. However at a coastal site, there may be


refAbstractLine:
other benefits that would accrue from an offshore breakwater in the form of a line of wave power devices. It is difficult


refAbstractLine:
to put a price tag on amenity, but the potential reduction in coast protection costs could be quantified and at Poole


refAbstractLine:
Bay there could well be an appreciable saving.


refAbstractLine:
Samples were taken from the surface sediments in Langstone Harbour during a period extending from April 1978 to July


refAbstractLine:
1979. Some 53 different locations were sampled and the particle size distribution of the dispersed sediment was


refAbstractLine:
obtained for each sample. The size distribution of the fine grained material was measured by a model ZB Coulter Counter.


refAbstractLine:
The report includes a brief description of the tidal characteristics of Langstone Harbour and a description of the


refAbstractLine:
use of the Coulter Counter to analyse fine grained material. A comparison between the results obtained by the Coulter


refAbstractLine:
Counter and a standard sedimentation method is given in the report. The particle size distribution of the sediment


refAbstractLine:
samples are listed and also shown in graphical form.


refAbstractLine:
Aims of study: (1)forecast the future long term pattern of shingle and sand movement above low water mark which might


refAbstractLine:
be expected to occur if the extent of protection were limited to repair and maintenance of existing defences,


refAbstractLine:
(2)in the  light of this, forecast what additional measures are required in order to safeguard property from


refAbstractLine:
erosion or damage, (3)consider the merits of undertaking a regular annual programme of beach re-nourishment so as to


refAbstractLine:
artificially sustain the beach feed. This report therefore describes the general situation; the littoral drift of


refAbstractLine:
shingle and sand; sea bed movements; Kirk Arrow Spit and beach feed; rates of littoral drift ; future trends and


refAbstractLine:
recommendations. Appendices includes an analysis of beach changes shown by aerial photographs; wind data at Thorney


refAbstractLine:
Island aerodrome; lists of historical charts and surveys available; tide levels and tidal currents and


refAbstractLine:
stratigraphical sequences of the area and beach materials.


refAbstractLine:
This report is a continuation of the main report, (Study of littoral movements, Selsey Bill to Pagham Harbour). The


refAbstractLine:
purpose of this study is to investigate long term historical changes in the pattern of shingle and sand movement along


refAbstractLine:
the coast with a view to forecasting future long term changes and making recommendations as to future action.


refAbstractLine:
Gives details of littoral drift, effect of coast protection on littoral drift, recent beach changes, short and long term


refAbstractLine:
During the last decade, a number of experiments have been carried out in the local coastal waters by the Borough


refAbstractLine:
Engineer's Department, Bournemouth, based upon the use of the Woodhead Sea-Bed Drifter, a device for investigating the


refAbstractLine:
currents close to the sea bed. This paper describes in chronological sequence the planning and execution off these


refAbstractLine:
experiments and makes an attempt to analyse the results obtained from them. The experiments were carried out to


refAbstractLine:
learn more about the movement of sea bed material in the area.


refAbstractLine:
In later Romano-British times, and probably several centuries earlier, the Mixon was possibly the site of a


refAbstractLine:
fortress guarding the entrance of an estuary. This interpretation is based on intensive diving at the site.


refAbstractLine:
Reports on the finding of a Roman limestone quarry offshore of Selsey which suggests a sea level 15-20 ft lower in Roman


refAbstractLine:
A new tracer technique is described for the study of pebble beach behaviour.


refAbstractLine:
This report summarises the contributions and subsequent discussions, to a seminar on shingle renourishment and


refAbstractLine:
recycling. The presentations at the seminar were given by representatives from HR, consulting engineers and members of


refAbstractLine:
local authorities. The presentation highlighted current research on shingle beaches and the practical experiences of


refAbstractLine:
engineers working on shingle schemes in the field. The objective of the seminar was to provide a forum for the


refAbstractLine:
exchange of experiences and views and, by promoting a dialogue between research and practising engineers, to


refAbstractLine:
develop realistic future research programmes.


refAbstractLine:
Naturally abraded beach pebbles and artificially abraded quarry gravel imported as fill material in the Southern


refAbstractLine:
Water Authority beach renourishment scheme, Bracklesham Bay.


refAbstractLine:
In response to the concern expressed by coastal Authorities to the granting of off-shore dredging licences in the late


refAbstractLine:
1960's, and the fears of ensuing reductions in the availability of suitable material for shoreline protection,


refAbstractLine:
the beach monitoring survey was instigated to establish trends and changes. The results analysed in this report


refAbstractLine:
demonstrate aerial survey to be an effective means of coastline monitoring by making optimum use of computer


refAbstractLine:
support without over-committing surveying resources. The strength of the foreshore is expressed in terms of width,


refAbstractLine:
area and volume dimensions either above a defined datum or between height limits. A statistical analysis from a group


refAbstractLine:
of annual records will indicate trends and check for significance. Longshore plotting of the significant trends


refAbstractLine:
shows up groupings where coastlines are accreting or eroding. Data may also be presented in terms of annual


refAbstractLine:
average values. The report includes 22 tables and is illustrated by 16 figures, 3 maps and a 432 page volume of


refAbstractLine:
In an earlier report (Webber, 1983), the writer made an appraisal of the problem of shingle accretion at Eastney


refAbstractLine:
sewage outfall. It was concluded that, whilst clearance might be expected to restore the situation to that broadly


refAbstractLine:
pertaining when the outfalls were constructed, - and the earliest was 1886 - the discharge of untreated effluent so


refAbstractLine:
close to the shoreline, even with the benefit of a strong ebb flush, could not be regarded as environmentally


refAbstractLine:
acceptable by modern standards. This was in accordance with the authority's own views and a major feasibility study is


refAbstractLine:
now in hand for the best means of sewage disposal from Portsea Island. As part of this study, the author was


refAbstractLine:
requested to examine the historical hydrographic charts for the approach to Langstone Harbour and over a possible


refAbstractLine:
pipeline route between Eastney Point and Horse Sand Fort with a view to ascertaining the degree of stability of the


refAbstractLine:
sea bed during the survey period. This would clearly be an important factor in the design of outfall structures or


refAbstractLine:
submarine pipelines. For instance, in a region of instability, a tunnelled outfall might be preferable,


refAbstractLine:
although initially more expensive, than a shallowly buried pipeline. The appendices include survey charts of the


refAbstractLine:
approaches to Langstone Harbour (1896, 1925, 1939, 1959, 1964, 1969, 1972 and 1974); maps showing contours of


refAbstractLine:
greatest and least depth and contours of bed level variation etc.


refAbstractLine:
Extract from the paper concerns beach cusps on Hayling Island. Describes their formation, dimensions and


refAbstractLine:
A review of the available published literature relating to the ecology of the Shell Exploration area in the Solent and


refAbstractLine:
Southampton Water was carried out and a summary account of the principal findings is presented here. This covers: mixed


refAbstractLine:
saltmarsh; spartina marsh; littoral zones - shingle and sandy shores, muddy shores, rocky shores and hard


refAbstractLine:
substrates; saline lagoons; sublittoral zones - benthic biota, commercial species, exotic species; organisms of the


refAbstractLine:
The main objective of this study is to evaluate the sensitivity of the coast to possible damage arising from a


refAbstractLine:
major oil spill. Thus it is necessary to describe and classify the coast into different types, according to their


refAbstractLine:
intrinsic characteristics and to the geomorphological processes operating on them.


refAbstractLine:
Since an earlier survey by Barnes, six new lamellibranch molluscs have been observed to inhabit Southampton Water and


refAbstractLine:
further records have been obtained for the nine previously recorded species. Cerastoderma edule (the common cockle) has


refAbstractLine:
progressively replaced the related C.glaucum at Hythe, and the Millbrook collecting site has been obliterated by land


refAbstractLine:
reclamation for an extension of the Southampton Container Dock. This report presents a description of the nature and


refAbstractLine:
distribution of the lamellibranch fauna of Southampton Water from data obtained between January 1970 and January 1971.


refAbstractLine:
Discusses the selection of infra-red false colour (IRFC) film for aerial photography and subsequent interpretation.


refAbstractLine:
IRFC film enables species to be distinguished, has high quality definition and can be used in a stereoscopic


refAbstractLine:
map-plotting machine. The aerial survey flight, its planning and the photogrammetric survey are described together with


refAbstractLine:
methods of map production. The topographic mapping was carried out to scale with O.S. plan control points, with the


refAbstractLine:
vegetation map, which can be superimposed over it, produced in much the same way.


refAbstractLine:
A number of sea bed features, identified from side-scan sonar and echo sounder surveys have been examined. The


refAbstractLine:
bottom is mainly sand and gravel. Limestone outcrops to the west and south of Selsey Bill and also east of Bembridge.


refAbstractLine:
Ridges of clay bedrock are found to the south and east of Chichester Harbour entrance. There are many mounds of


refAbstractLine:
cobbles and boulders e.g. Bullock Patch, north and west Medmery Bank and New Grounds which are probably glacial


refAbstractLine:
moraines. An interesting feature of the area is the widely scattered rectangular limestone sarcens, up to 5m across.


refAbstractLine:
Light penetration is generally poor due to the presence of fine muddy silts from the east Solent and harbours to the


refAbstractLine:
north as well as the clay outcrops. Underwater photography was used to aid identification of species and define


refAbstractLine:
habitats. Gravel extraction and fishing are the main commercial uses of the area. Sewage disposal and hydrocarbon


refAbstractLine:
exploration are noted. The area is important for recreation, principally sailing and angling. Scientific and


refAbstractLine:
archaeological interest is reviewed. Recommendations for further work are made, including studies of reefs, algae and


refAbstractLine:
This report forms part of the Salt Marsh Survey of Great Britain which is a resource survey aimed at identifying the


refAbstractLine:
distribution, extent and types of saltmarsh in order to make better informed and scientifically based conservation


refAbstractLine:
decisions. Presented here is the general summary of the site information gathered for Hampshire.


refAbstractLine:
Langstone Harbour has been recognised as an area in which there is a problem of potential conflict between the use of


refAbstractLine:
the harbour as a nature reserve and its use for human activities. This study was carried out in order to


refAbstractLine:
contribute towards the solution of the problem of this potential conflict. In order to evaluate the situation in


refAbstractLine:
the harbour, three stages of research were carried out. (1)The examination of the extent and nature of human


refAbstractLine:
pressures. (2)The assessment of the status of littoral birds and their usage of the harbour and the examination of the


refAbstractLine:
related ecological and behavioural factors. (3)The correlation of (1) and (2) culminating in the formulation of


refAbstractLine:
This south coast study forms part of a broader survey, co-ordinated by the Nature Conservancy Council, to assess the


refAbstractLine:
current status of brackish lagoons around the coasts of Britain. The present survey deals with 39 brackish lagoons


refAbstractLine:
or lagoon systems. An accompanying volume includes copies of recording sheets for each lagoonal site.


refAbstractLine:
This report describes the Hampshire coastline and its defences against the sea to prevent erosion or flooding. The


refAbstractLine:
study has identified the various types of coastline, and their problems. The study has also reviewed the various


refAbstractLine:
responses to those problems made by the large number of public bodies, commercial organisations and private


refAbstractLine:
landowners with a responsibility or interest in the coast. Where defences exist, an assessment of them has been made,


refAbstractLine:
and an overall defence strategy suggested for the most common types of problem. Recommendations for further action


refAbstractLine:
The objective of this study is to evaluate the present situation of Hampshire's coast in relation to the coastal


refAbstractLine:
defence systems. The approach that has been adopted to achieve this objective is based on two starting points:


refAbstractLine:
(1)The potential impact on the coast caused by the coastal processes of erosion and flooding. The coast is regarded as


refAbstractLine:
unprotected; any coastal defence work although present is assumed to be non-functioning. This makes it possible to


refAbstractLine:
indicate all parts of the coast that may be affected within a certain period, and whether it is worth defending them


refAbstractLine:
both now and in the future. The period of time chosen is 50 years. (2)The present condition of the coastal defences.


refAbstractLine:
When comparing this to the results of the previous analysis the necessity to carry out measures can be established in


refAbstractLine:
Series of maps at 1:25,000 scale covering the Hampshire coastline giving details of coastal erosion; type of sea


refAbstractLine:
defences; potential flooding areas and type of landuse in the coastal zone.


refAbstractLine:
Although restrictions limited the survey to two areas, the results show a very promising aggregate reserve. Borehole


refAbstractLine:
evidence indicates that the deposit in both areas is approximately lens-shaped with no considerable fluctuation


refAbstractLine:
in thickness. As such the volume of the reserve has been calculated using the isopachyte chart. In Area A the volume


refAbstractLine:
HR were asked by Technical Services Department, Borough of Havant, to assess the problems currently affecting the


refAbstractLine:
Hayling frontage. These include the optimum layout of a proposed groyne in the vicinity of Sandy Point, the


refAbstractLine:
assessment of beach maintenance requirements, including the feasibility of recycling shingle from areas of accretion and


refAbstractLine:
the problems of erosion to the west of Beachcot.


refAbstractLine:
Gives details of previous storms and weather conditions; extent of damage of the December flooding event; performance


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of sea defences; response to flooding by Havant Borough Council, Southern Water Authority and the emergency


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services; costs of flooding and recommended preparations for future storm events (engineering works and management of


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Collection of records of all known ( 119 ) offshore sediment samples, Selsey Bill to Gilkicker Point.


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Plans showing beach levels on 13 sections of beach between Thorness and Egypt Point. Profiles taken in January, July


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Plans showing beach levels on 13 sections of beach between Thorness and Egypt Point. Profiles taken in November.


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Plans showing beach levels on 13 sections of beach between Thorness and Egypt Point. Profiles taken in March.


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Detailed plans of works to be carried out at Eastern Gardens, Ryde. The actual work carried out was a


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Plans showing the proposed reconstruction of groynes at St Helens Duver.


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Plans of the proposed sea defence works showing sections through the construction works.


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Considerable and rapid changes in the coastline of the Isle of Wight are now taking place in the Chale/ Blackgang area


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which is threatening property and public utilities adjacent to the cliff top. This report is an assessment of the causes


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of the erosion at the coast between Walpen and Blackgang Chines, whether it is likely to continue at the present


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rate and whether anything within financial reason can be attempted to decelerate the loss of coastal lands and


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Description of the coastline of the Isle of Wight, within the South Wight Borough, in terms of incidence of erosion;


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presence and condition of coastal protection works and location of proposed works.


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Beach level surveys for 3 beaches in Seagrove Bay, Priory Bay and The Duver. The surveys were carried out in August


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The aim of this report is to (1) summarise the general coastal situation and changes over the whole frontage, (2)


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to identify any urgent problems and submit recommendations for any coast protection works immediately necessary and


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(3) to identify any other areas where coast protection works may be required with recommendations as to the general lines


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Describes condition of the coast and gives recommendations and costs of works.


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Examines previous movements at Shanklin; the natural evolution of Shanklin Cliff; possible causes of movements;


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possible protective works; recommendations; further investigations; structures at risk and sketch maps of cliff


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The coast at Shanklin consists of a wide, protected and developed backshore in front of a 40m high, near vertical


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cliff with a scree slope at its base. The upper cliff is composed of the Ferruginous Sands (Cretaceous). Occasional


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rock falls due to weathering occur but overall retreat of the upper cliff is extremely slow. The scree consists of a


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loose accumulation of the fallen debris, standing at an overall angle of 30 degrees, with a water table near to its


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upper surface and a spring line at its toe. The scree is in a marginally stable state and very large blocks, or a


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critical quantity of small ones, falling on the scree can cause sliding of the latter. Such movements have resulted in


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damage to adjacent buildings and other structures. Laboratory tests on fallen material have been carried out


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and observations made of ground water levels. The results have been used to analyse the scree slope stability. It is


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concluded that the sequential movements at Shanklin are due to the generation of excess pore pressures during undrained


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Purpose of this report is to examine the cliff stability at Cliff Road, Lake and the influence on this of large coaches


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using this road. The methods of study have included an inspection of the cliffs, E.D.M. surveying and inspection of


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past editions of O.S. maps for evidence of recession rates.


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The problems of developing a numerical model to predict the movement of non-cohesive sediment in coastal situations are


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discussed. Existing wave and tidal models available at Hydraulics Research are considered and the way that they


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could be combined to model both waves and currents. The application of a theory of sediment transport under waves


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and currents to these situations is discussed.


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The CERC formula can only be applied when fairly simple boundary conditions are satisfied. In practice, however,


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these conditions are often complicated and consequently other sediment transport formulae should be used. Due to the


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lack of reliable transport measurements in a vertical, a check at prototype conditions of such formulae is almost


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impossible at the moment and consequently the practical value of some proposed formulae is rather obscure. As a


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method of verification for the time being, comparative computations have been carried out with the CERC formula and


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the Bijker formula, the adapted Engelund-Hansen formula and the adapted (2 methods of adaptation) Ackers-White formula.


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As a result of this study the Bijker formula appeared to be better than the others.


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The movement of sediments in estuaries frequently causes problems. Any engineering works undertaken in any estuary


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may affect the pattern of sediment erosion or deposition and lead to beneficial or deleterious affects at locations


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throughout the estuary, occasionally at places remote from the site of the original engineering works. Thus the


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construction of docks, quays or jetties may lead to increased sediment deposition or alternatively erosion. The


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maintenance or enlargement of existing shipping channels may have an impact on sediment movement and any alterations in


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fluvial flow or tidal storage may affect patterns of sediment erosion or deposition. Before embarking on upon


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such engineering works it is therefore important for their impact on an estuary to be assessed to enable rational


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decisions to be made about the advisability of carrying out proposed schemes and to assess which schemes will achieve


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the required aims. Because of the complexity of the physical system representing an estuary, recourse has frequently to


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be made to numerical models to make such predictions. Numerical models have been successfully used in the past to


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predict the behaviour of both cohesive and non-cohesive sediments in estuaries but these models have ignored the


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effects of waves which in certain cases are significant. In this report, the effects of waves in these situations are


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discussed and methods of including these in a numerical model are considered. Much is known separately about the


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behaviour of waves and currents and also the interactions between the two. The chief constraint at the moment on


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modelling sediment transport under waves and currents is the lack of a reliable theory for predicting sediment movement


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in wave dominated regions. The work should aid in the development of numerical models to predict the behaviour in


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estuaries under the action of both waves and currents.


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Recommendations are made for an improved method of analysing annual maximum sea-levels involving confidence intervals


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which should provide the coastal engineer with a clearer indication of the reliability of sea-level estimates. It is


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suggested that assessing the effect of trends in the observed annual maxima and estimating the variability of the


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estimates should be treated separately. The reason for this is that the variability depends on the parameters of the


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underlying extreme-value distribution which can vary considerably from port to port. This is illustrated for


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several ports using confidence intervals for estimated sea-levels for specific return periods and series lengths.


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It is also shown that the interpretation of an alternative procedure involving 10-year cumulative subsets is far from


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Waves have been recorded at a coastal site in the Central English Channel over a period of two years. By correlating


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wind and wave height data, empirical relationships have been derived which have been extrapolated to take account of the


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significantly longer period of wind data. By this means both the long term wave climate and the wave heights associated


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with storm conditions may be predicted for the more exposed wind sector. The method is relatively straightforward and


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The joint surge-tide probability method for estimating the frequency of occurrence of extreme high sea levels is


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particularly useful when only a few years of sea level observations are available for the location of interest. The


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standard approach at present involves the convolution of the probability density functions of the tidal and surge


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elevations to obtain the distribution of total water level. An alternative approach is discussed here which is an


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adaptation of an existing, but different, method to render it suitable for application in many British and European


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locations. The two methods are applied to the major port of Portsmouth and are critically compared.


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Research is in progress to determine the nature and pattern of the degradation processes in an actively eroding stretch


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of the Barton Clay cliffs in the Naish Farm area of Highcliffe, Hampshire. In response to loss of beach material


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the rate of recession has accelerated and is currently averaging 1.9m/year, resulting in steepening of the overall


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cliff angle from an average of 13 degrees in 1947 to a maximum recorded average of 19 degrees in 1976. The presence


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of three preferred bedding plane shear surfaces at various elevations within the cliff produce a benched type of cliff


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profile, comparable with that seen in the Gault and Lias Clay controlled cliffs of Fairy Dell, Dorset but in contrast


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with the published descriptions of London Clay cliffs. The degradation processes include scarp slumping, spalling


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(including toppling and soil falls), bench sliding (involving movement of colluvium over a preferred bedding


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plane), debris sliding (including movement of screes over clay scarps), mud sliding (i.e. the traditional lobate


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mudflows'), mud runs (true flows), Stream (or gully) erosion and man-related processes. Regular surveying and


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monitoring using a variety of techniques and having to surmount difficult field conditions, has begun to elucidate


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the characteristics, rates and inter-relationships of these processes. A flow chart representing the systematic transfer


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of soil from the in situ state via various colluvial modes (including the three bench levels) en route to the sea and


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an accompanying colluvial soil budget for the year July 1982 has been drawn up. It is shown that bench sliding is by far


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the most significant process in terms of volume of colluvium moved through the undercliff, accounting for 93% of the


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total volume of colluvium contained in the area. Mud and debris sliding, although important processes, are of


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Research is in progress to investigate the influence of the groundwater hydrology on slope stability in an area of


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naturally degrading coastal cliffs. The area shows fairly continuous movements in the undercliff colluvium and


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intermittent slumping of the in-situ strata. Among the facets of the groundwater hydrology being investigated are


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the seepage flow patterns, the soil water balance and the meteorological conditions. It is shown that the study area


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can, for convenience, be sub-divided into three geohydrological domains each with its own water balance


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characteristics. Preliminary results obtained so far show very variable response times in the different soil masses


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and a particular difficulty in obtaining a clear correlation between pore pressure and slope movement rate. The paper


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concludes by outlining the potential engineering applications of this type of research.


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This review is based on an analysis of gabions as a means of shore protection. Gabions as a form of sea defence are now


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widely used on both sand and shingle beaches of the UK. The report concentrates on the three main types of gabion


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material; plastic covered wire mesh, galvanised welded steel mesh and heavy duty plastic mesh. The main findings are that


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gabions are not suited for use in areas of high wave activity and their life expectancy is considerably shortened


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(by abrasion) when used on shingle beaches. The more flexible "maccaferri" type can more easily withstand


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deformation and can be effectively used on the upper foreshore as groynes, revetments and seawalls. The


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electrically welded steel mesh gabions have proved to be effective as retaining walls and in the stabilisation of


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cliffs and beach ridges. There is too little information, however, to be able to assess their effectiveness as


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groynes, revetments etc. The heavy duty plastic mesh type of gabion is not widely used and its usefulness as a coast


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protection material has yet to be proven.


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The suspended sediment regime for the Solent has been studied by field observations and the application of Landsat


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MSS data. The field surveys, performed on an almost monthly basis from January to December 1980 for a traverse across


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the West Solent, show the spatial variability as well as the seasonal variation in the sediment concentration. Seasonal


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effects such as those caused by winds, rainfalls and the river discharge are also investigated. Observations over a


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tidal cycle at two positions have indicated the close relationship between fluctuations of the surface


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concentration and tidal velocities. In addition to the determination of suspended sediment concentrations, the


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water samples collected were analysed for the organic contents for the two periods, viz. the winter and the


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summer. Brief analysis of the sediment composition and size distribution reveal the spatial and temporal consistency in


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composition of the bimodal mixture of silt size particles. Synoptic distributions and patterns of suspended sediment


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have been obtained by analysis of Landsat imagery using the Plessey IDP 3000 Image Processor. Band 5 imagery are found


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to give best manifestation of the surface sediment. Interpretation of the colour sliced images obtained at


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various portions of a tidal cycle has shown the correspondence between the sediment patterns and tidal


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circulation within the area. Although these images were acquired for the period 1975 to 1980, there is nonetheless a


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consistency in the distribution patterns from scene to scene. Valuable information relating to suspended sediment


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behaviour is evidenced including the possible source in the adjacent Christchurch Bay west of the Solent. An attempt is


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made to quantitatively correlate the satellite radiance values with suspended sediment concentrations. Previous


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studies concerning this are also discussed. A direct calibration is carried out for a Landsat overpass for which


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simultaneous sediment data was collected. In addition an indirect approach is undertaken based entirely on the


